BOOKS FOE THE COUNTRY 



THE 



FLOWER GARDEN 



E. S. DE LAMER, 

AUTHOli OF '• THE KITCHEN GA3DEN," &c. 




LONDON: 

dutledg:: & co., fahringdon str] 

HEW YORK; — IS, BEEKMAN STREET, 



PRICE ONE SHILLING. 



THE 

FLOWER GARDEN, 

Sfc, 8fc. 




THE FLOWER GARDEN, 



THE 



FLOWER GARDEN; 

OR, 

®Jtt €vitmt iit tljx ©gat §tfmib 

OF 



BULBOUS, TUBEROUS, FIBROUS-ROOTED, & SHRUBBY 




EUGENE SEBASTIAN DELAMER, V 

AUTHOR OP j5 1 "% '& ft J E i ^ i S 

if 

<f PIGEONS AND RAEBITS," "FLAX AND HEMP," "THE EITCHEN GABDEN," 
ETC. ETC. 



« £tfo Litton* 
LONDON: 

G. ROTJTLEDGE-& CO. EARRINGDON STREET; 

NEW YORK: 18, BEEKMAN STREET. 

1857. 
IT 



NOTICE. 



Flowers and their culture have a whole literature 
to themselves. Hundreds of pounds might be spent 
in forming a floral library, and years devoted to 
studying its contents. Will, therefore, the Eeader 
violently complain if he finds this Flower Garden 
incomplete in certain details, aud even blemished by 
sundry small errors, — to avoid which last, however, 
all pains have been taken ? It pretends to exactly 
as much as, and no more than, its predecessor, " The 
Kitchen Garden;" and will be content to receive the 
same meed of approbation, and to exercise the same 
amount of usefulness. 

In all pursuits, there must be a first step, — an 
Indicator to the grand highways which lead to success 
and eminence. It is something to have taught an 
apprentice hand not to attempt too much at once; — 
to have pointed out to him where the difficulties of 
his Art lie, — what he may undertake with confident 
ease, — and to achieve which results he must gird up 



vi 



NOTICE. 



the loins of his Intelligence and his Industry, — at the 
same time that he is presented with a general sketchy 
map of the vast country which lies open to his explo- 
ration. If the fair-judging Reader shall decide that 
this has been effected by the Kitchen and the 
Flower Gardens, it will be an encouragement to 
the Writer to volunteer as gate-opener to other fields 
of Philobotanic Literature. 



CONTENTS. 



Floriculture — nr what respects it differs frojI 



Kitchen-gardening- . . . . . . . . . . Page 1 

The Laying out and Planting of Gardens and 

Pleasure-grounds . . . . ^ . . . . . . . . 2 

Town Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 

Villa Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ' 15 

Country Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 

Summary of Bulbous Flowers .. .. .. .. 21 



Agapanthu3 — Amaryllis — Colchicuni — Crocus — Crown 
Imperial — Daffodils — Violets — Fritillaries — Garlic — 
Corn Flags — Guernsey Lilies — Hyacinths — Iris — Ixias 
— Jonquils — Lilies — Narcissus — Snowdrops — Snow- 
flake — Squill — Star of Bethlehem — Tiger Flowers — 
Tuberose — Tulips — Zephyranthes .. 22 — 50 

Tuberous and Rhizomatous Flowers . . . . . . 50 

Aconite — Anemone — Arum — Christmas Rose — Cyclamen 
— Dahlias — Hemerocallis — Iris — Ladies' Slipper — 
Marvel of Peru —Monkshood — Orchis — Wood Sorrel 
— Everlasting Pea — Pseonies — Ranunculus — Tro- 
pseolum . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 — 72 

Herbaceous Flowers . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 

Alstrcemeria — American Cowslip — Antirrhinum — Aqui- 
legia — Swallow Wort — Auriculas — Campanulas — 
Campion Rose — Calceolarias — Carnations — Chrysanthe- 
mums — Cinerarias — Cobcea — Coltsfoot — Commelina — 
Cranesbill — Daisies— Dielytra — Escholtzia — Evening 
Primrose — Everlasting — Foxgloves— Geum — Gentian 



Tin 



COWTEWTS. 



Herbaceous Flowers (continued)— 

— Geraniums — Golden Fod — Grass — Flax — Forget- 
me-not — Fumitories — Hepatica — Hollyhocks — Hops — 
Larkspur — Lily of the Valley — Lobelias — London 
Pride — London Tuft — Lungwort — Lupines — Lychnis 
— Marsh Marigold — Mesembrianthemums — Michael- 
mas Daisies — Musk-plant — Moneywort — Pansies — 
Pentstemon — Perennial Aster — Periwinkles — Phlox — 
Pimpernel — Pinks — Polyanthus — Potentilla — Prim- 
roses — Rockets — St. John's Wort — Salvia — Scabious — 
Seduin — Spiderwort — Thrift — Valerian — Veronica — 
Violets— Water Lilies— Willow Herb . . Page 73—107 

Shrubby and Sub-Shrubby Flowers 107 

Althaea — American Allspice — Azalea — Berberry — Big- 
nonia — Birthwort — Bladder Senna — Bramble — Broom 
— Brugmansia — Buddlea — Camellia — Christ's Thorn — 
Cistus — Clianthus — Coronilla — Cytisus — Daphne — 
Deutzia — Furze — Fuschia — Guelder Pose — Heaths- 
Hibiscus — Hollies — Honeysuckles — Hydrangea — Jes- 
samines — Kalmia — Lavender — Citrus — Lilacs — Myr- 
tles — Nerium — Passion Flower — Poiygala — Pome- 
granates — Pears — Rhododendrons — Ribes — Family of 
Eoses— Wall-flowers, &c. 107-^158 

Annual Flowers .. .. .. .. .. .. 158 

Flowering Trees 159 

The Calendar: Monthly Hints in Floriculture 160 
October, 160 — November, 161 — December, 162 — Janu- 
ary, 164— February, 165— March, 160— April, 16S — 
May, 169— June, 170— July, 171— August, 172— Sep- 
tember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17! 



Index 



175 



THE 

FLOWER GARDEN. 



It would be an inconsiderate employment of our 
limited space, to repeat here snch preliminar y remarks to 
''The Kitchen Garden," as are applicable to horticulture 
in general. The plants which are candidates for admis- 
sion into the flower garden, are very much more nume- 
rous, and more varied in their constitution, native 
climate, and soil, than those cultivated for culinary and 
economical purposes. But the wider and more discursive 
the topic, the stricter is the economy of packing room 
forced upon the literary workman, who has only a 
certain number of pages allowed him in which to arrange 
his superabundant materials. 

Floriculture differs from kitchen-gardening in one 
grand principle, — that, whereas the latter has no free- 
will in the choice of the objects of its care, — for whether 
in Great Britain or Australia, in Russia or in Italy, a 
gentleman's household must be supplied with all possible, 
as well as all necessary, vegetables and fruits ; the 
flower-gardener enjoys a wide range, and liberty of selec- 
tion, which makes a failure on his part incalculably more 
discreditable. He has only to keep up a goodly show, 
to maintain a fair outside, no matter with what mate- 
rials ; if one thing will not prove effective, let him try 
another ; if one family of decorative vegetables will not 
suit his latitude, his aspect, and his soil, others, per- 
fectly adapted to it, will almost beg him to patronize 
them, Tvhile the unhappy kitchen-gardener is com- 
pelled to furnish peaches in June, grapes in April, 



2 



THE PLOTTER GARDEN. 



spinach all the dog-days through, and the materials for 
green-peas-soup in February,* — under every condition 
of the elements, and often with defective material appli- 
ances ; — the master of the ceremonies to the parterre 
and pleasure-ground has full carte-UancJie given him : 
his employer merely says to him, in so many words, or 
by implication. " Let me have something pretty to look 
at. and cheerful to walk in : let the out-door apartment 
of my mansion, which we call ; the garden,' be always- 
tasty, gay, and well furnished with seats and leafy 
alcoves for the ladies, — with fountains to serve as lustres, 
and their basins as mirrors, — with sun-dial3 instead of 
timepieces, — a smooth carpet of verdant turf softer and 
more elastic than a Persian rug, — and, everywhere that 
you can contrive to place them, well-chosen combina- 
tions of the brightest colours. Tou may order to any 
reasonable extent of the country nurserymen : and 
whenever I go to London, I will send you down any 
striking object that may chance to be attracting atten- 
tion there. Only let me have a well-kept flower-garden, 
and I shall be content. If we can show finer and more 
remarkable specimens than our neighbours, so much the 
better ; if not, at least let our garden be as good of its 
kind as theirs." The gardening artist who, under such 
circumstances, — with the accumulated treasures collected 
by Fortune, Lobb, Douglas, and other intrepid disco- 
verers, at his disposal, — fails to produce a pleasing and 
harmonious effect, is almost left without excuse. 

Therefore, in the laying out and planting gardens and 
pleasure-grounds, the wisest principle to start from is, 
not to gratify your own particular predilections in favour 
of certain classes of flowers and shrubs, but to make 
them subordinate to the local circumstances in which you 
find yourself placed. They must be the leading guides 
of what you will most cultivate, and even of your plan. 
Thus, in many famous gardens on the continent of 
Europe, many evergreens, which give the charm to our 
own shrubberies during a considerable portion of the 
* See the Gardener's Chronicle for January 5, 1856. 



THE ELOWEE GARDEN. 3 

year, either will not stand the winter, or are sure to be 
severely injured by it. Laurels, laurustinuses, arbu- 
tuses, bay-trees, and even Portugal laurels, are kept in 
tubs, that they may be housed when frost comes. Now, 
surely those gardeners show better taste by refraining 
from the employment of such evergreens in the same 
massive clumps as we do, than if they were to persist in 
parading half-dead and half-naked regiments of unaccli- 
mated and unaccliinatable plants. Again: there is a 
tribe of plants, commonly spoken of by gardeners as 
American plants, with brilliant flowers, often of curious 
shape, and peculiar texture — often, too, with evergreen 
foliage, — which must have a special soil, heath-mould, to 
grow in, and which are the better for breathing an 
atmosphere of equable moisture. Rhododendrons, aza- 
lias, heaths, and kalmias, are of notorious beauty. Now, 
although beds of American plants may and ought to 
be made where the soil is not naturally suited for them, 
— and instances of horticultural success in this line are 
far from uncommon, — the principle here advocated is, 
that where the soil and climate are inherently congenial 
to American plants (as is the case in numerous sites in 
the hilly parts of England, Wales, Scotland, and Ire- 
land), there American plants should be made the leading 
feature of the flower-garden and the pleasure-ground. 
Thus, not far from Penzance, in Cornwall, there is an 
extensive grove of pinasters, with an underwood of 
gigantic rhododendrons, — whose blossoms hang beyond 
the reach of the tallest man mounted on the tallest 
horse, now meeting overhead in thickets, now dispersed 
as independent evergreens. It would be in vain to 
attempt raising similar specimens under ordinary condi- 
tions of planting, while it was a happy idea to plant 
them where they flourish so luxuriantly. Again: the 
cypress is a magnificent ornament to the gardens of the 
south of Europe; but it requires a long roasting sum- 
mer to make it put forth all its strength. It is respect- 
able in the south of England ; shabby-genteel higher up 
the island ; in the north, miserable and poverty-struck. 

b 2 



4 



THE FLOWER GABDEST. 



Of course, local circumstances, and especially peculiar 
skill and care, can modify the average effects of latitude, 
— even within a dozen miles of Edinburgh some decent 
specimens are to be seen ; but wherever, in spite of a 
fair trial of sedulous attention, the cypress sinks below 
the standard of respectability, there is no wisdom in 
continuing the fight against nature — the idea is to be 
manfully dropped. Too often do we groan over the 
aspect of cypresses that look as if their owner were tak- 
ing care of them against an apprehended scarcity of 
birch-brooms. It would have been much better to plant 
in their place holly, Portugal laurel, box, and yew. 
Hardy evergreens only are admissible within the bound- 
ary of a sensible gardener's domain. In short, it is true 
wisdom in ornamental gardening to long, not for what is 
most difficult, but for what is easiest to obtain, suppos- 
ing it to be good in its way. Unusually fine specimens 
of ordinary plants are more admired than shabby speci- 
mens of rare ones ; and, for still stronger reasons, a 
collection of fine, well-grown individuals is a more 
attractive sight than a collection of wretchednesses, 
however distant may be their native spot, or however 
much money they may have cost at the nursery. It is 
needless to explain that the above remarks do not apply 
to experiments in planting out, and testing the hardiness 
of newly-arrived species. In such cases, some risk must 
be run. Those who succeed, have the gratification of 
drawing the prize (which they well deserve) of having 
handsomer, because older-established, plants than their 
neighbours growing out of doors, as happened to those 
who first ventured the Deodar Cedar and the Cryptome- 
ria Japonica to stand the winter as garden-trees, and the 
Dielytra spectabilis as a border-flower. 

Even the plan, form, and character of the flower- 
garden must be moulded by circumstances. It must be 
open, and yet private ; secluded trom intrusion, and yet 
exposed to light and air. It must be conveniently near; 
as much under the eye and as open to the constant and 
immediate visits of the persons who are to enjoy it as 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



5 



can possibly be contrived : keeping in mind the notion 
that a flower-garden is a sort of open-air apartment, it- 
should harmonize, both in style and magnitude, with the 
residence of which it forms a part. Only one discre- 
pancy is permissible ; a small but handsome and tasty 
cottage may stand in the midst of large and luxurious 
gardens. Even then, the disproportion should not be 
too glaring. But, except in the largest cities, a vast 
house, a semi-palatial abode, with only a few square 
yards of court, and no garden, or only a tiny apology for 
one, is as offensive to good taste as it is inconvenient 
and uncomfortable to its occupants. The style, also, of 
the flower-garden must correspond with that of the 
house and grounds, and carry out the date of the archi- 
tecture. An Italian mansion, on the slope of a hill, should 
have its terraces, vases, balustrades, and flights of steps 
leading to the several levels of horizontal flower-beds, form- 
ing something like what Sir T. Browne called " the pensile 
or hanging gardens of Babylon." If the park is laid out 
in avenues, and the house is either in the Dutch or the 
Elizabethan style, then a geometric garden, with formal 
evergreens, with clipped yew hedges, and even with ver- 
dant, living sofas, obelisks, peacocks, statues, and ships 
of box and yew, will be in harmony. While a park in 
the Brownean style of landscape-gardening, allows the 
flowers to be distributed in their place in the artificially- 
natural mode (as if the gardener were composing a pic- 
ture, or a scene for the opera), which is known all over 
Europe as eminently the English style of gardening. 
As a rule, the more wild and secluded the district in 
which the house is located, the more highly finished and 
well dressed ought the garden to be. In the highlands 
of Scotland, in the valleys of Wales, on the moors of 
Cornwall and Devon, the traveller h£s seen enough of 
thickets and rocks, and of wild nature in general ; but a 
distant glance of his trim and regular garden, a peep at 
the top of trees and ^shrubs which are not to be found 
on the mountain-side, recall him at once, in idea, to his 
home, and forestall the realities of repose and comfort. 



6 



IHZ ITOWZE :-AP.DI3". 



Bur. whatever style of garden is a exited, one grand 
miscalculation should be guarded against; — it is the 
large garden, which is too often coveted in the place of 
one in perfect trim. Men will grasp at more than they 
can cany, when they are allowed the permission to take 
up a j'zir armful of happiness : and so they forger the 
golden maxim, whether f:r rhe parterre or the ccttage 

hmflafr irgentia rura, 



" Praise an extensive country estate; cultivate a little 
one. 

eh lower gardens may be divided into three classes, 

TOW>- G-AZniVS. VILLA GAP.DI>"S. and COTTZSTEY GAJRDEXS, 

or rhe gardens attached to gentlemen's c:un:ry seats. 



T0W5" G-AEDZXS. 

The nrst point to carry, in these, is to get something 
pleasing and ornamental to grow ; what those somethings 
are. will depend entirely upon circumstances. There are 
localities where aim est nothing, in tde shaoe of vegetable 
organization, can preserve hoe. dVear TTowerhamptcn. 
the hardiest weeds are add that can be seen; and around 
the alkali works in the north of England, the trees and 
hawthorn helves are killed: the here age alone exists, 
and that does net always remain iminjirred. It is clear 

are carried on. a longer list of plants can be grown and 
bloomed, than in the heart of London or 3 Tan Chester. 
Therofere. the town gardener must be content with what 
he rinds by actual experiment will bear his cwn peculiar 



As to style, in small country towns, a landscape garden 
can be effectively laid out. where there is a brooklet, a 
bit of meadow, a rustic bridge, and a distant peep of the 



TOWN GABDENS. 



7 



open country. The smallest bit of real rural horizon is 
an invaluable element in horticultural picture-making. 
But in large cities, a geometric or symmetrical plan is 
mostly the only available arrangement. Advantage may 
be taken of a passage, an archway, or a line of building, 
to help to form a vista or avenue, and to give the idea of 
greater extent than really exists. If people were not 
afraid of being reproached with a Cockney taste, — which 
taste is often no more than the wise and laudable desire 
of deriving the utmost amount of enjoyment from the 
most limited capabilities and materials, — the Chinese 
style of gardening might be very .advantageously employed 
in very many town gardens. It allows the display of 
many ornaments, it courts the introduction of incongruous 
flowers, it affords a place for the whims of wealthy fanciers, 
which otherwise must be excluded. The Chinese are 
admitted to be excellent gardeners, even by those who do 
not admire their taste. A Chinese town garden, employ- 
ing pot-plants, dwarf trees, movable trellis-work, and 
temporary summer-houses and flights of steps, in the 
same way that scenic artists use what are called " pro- 
perties " on the stage, might be made an ever-varying 
fund of amusement. The intelligent reader will have 
little difficulty in developing the hint thus started, 
especially after perusing the instructive and amusing 
works of Robert Fortune. 

Shirley Hibberd, in " The Town Garden," makes the 
following sensible remarks : — " In an ordinary town 
garden, measuring, say some thirty feet by sixty, any- 
thing beyond a plain arrangement of oval and circular 
parterres, separated from the wall borders by a plain 
continuous path, is out of the question. Some people 
sketch out a narrow path of the most serpentine outline, 
which from a distance looks like a sandy snake ; and this 
(after leading a visitor from the back door by a number of 
convolutions over every square yard of the entire garden, 
until he is dizzy with curves returning again and again 
upon themselves) ends abruptly in a high grimy wall, 
against which a few stones are piled to represent £ rock- 



8 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



work.' Now, besides the absurdity of a serpentine path 
in a small garden, such a path is made still more ridicu- 
lous by the fact of its leading nowhere ; whereas a simple 
division of the soil into parterres and gravel paths — with- 
out any attempt at the country lane or lovers' walk — 
accomplishes all that it professes, by enabling the visitor 
to reach any object that attracts him, the path itself 
remaining a convenience, not a feature. 

" Most town residences have front plots, and these, if 
well kept, add very much to the neatness, cheerfulness, 
and indeed respectability, of a house. Just as we judge 
of a man by his dress and general bearing, so may we 
judge of him by the appearance of his home. A scrubby 
pair of neglected chrysanthemums trailing over a sour 
and ragged grass-plot, or a sooty shrubbery of untrimmed, 
worm-eaten, and flowerless lilac-trees, do as much to dis- 
grace a house and its occupant, as a string of pewter 
pots dangling from the garden railings, and half-a-dozen 
broken windows. A front plot, being smaller, requires, 
of course, less labour than a garden, but, if possible, 
more taste. Lay out your plot in the simplest manner 
possible, and do not suffer your neighbour to laugh at an 
endless variety of parterres of all shapes and sizes, edged 
with oyster-shells, and filled up with plants that would 
disgrace a common. One central bed, and a continuous 
border, are usually all you have room for, or, at least, 
three (always prefer odd numbers) beds of equal sizes, 
and in these you may keep up a show of annuals and 
herbaceous perennials. The centre of each bed should 
have a handsome flowering shrub ; and near the house 
one or two laurels and a holly will serve as a screen 
against dust, and ensure privacy for your windows. A 
very small plot is best laid down with grass and clean 
gravel, without flowers at all ; in the centre, a variegated 
holly, box-tree, or laurel, may be planted ; and all the 
labour required is to keep the grass closely shaven, or 
the gravel neatly swept. Here the object must be to 
produce a neat appearance, and to avoid all attempts at 
bewildering outlines, massive shrubbery, or thin sprink- 



TOWK GAEDENS. 



9 



lings of innumerable colours. If you do not indulge in 
box edging in your garden behind, you should have it 
here if you grow flowers, it adds so much to the neatness 
and completeness of your outlines.' ' 

Symmetrical gardens in towns offer the advantage of 
small, regular, corresponding beds, which may be kept 
gay by flowers grown in masses, many of which may 
be replaced by others soon after their bloom is over. 
Bulbous flowers are invaluable for this purpose ; the first 
season, they are almost always sure to blossom well, 
because they have formed their flowering germs else- 
where, under more favourable circumstances. The White, 
Tiger, and Orange Lilies, as well as the Crown Imperial 
and the Hemerocallis, may remain permanently, if the 
situation is not altogether too close. Van Thol, Parrot, 
Bizarre, Double, and all the robuster Tulips ; Hyacinths, 
Crocuses, Snowdrops, and Narcissuses, will all bloom 
exceedingly well, if grown in town and country in alter- 
nate years. Those who have a town-house and a country- 
residence, or who can even make an arrangement with 
some country market-gardener, may thus maintain a 
collection of bulbs in serviceable condition for many 
years. With only a moderate double set, a few beds in 
town may be made gay every successive spring and 
summer. But in carrying out this, or any other like 
floricultural expedient, be it remembered that the plants 
must be set in proper soil. Townspeople are apt to 
fancy that earth is earth, and that nothing more is to be 
thought or said about it. Whereas, the soil of town 
gardens is not only exhausted for want of manure, but 
is often actually poisoned by deposits of soot, and other 
causes that have been in action for centuries past. Con- 
sequently, if you wish your flowers to thrive, provide 
them with a healthy medium for the reception of their 
roots, cart away as many loads as are requisite, and 
replace them with soil that is pure and fresh, whether 
from meadow, field, or, heath. Small azaleas and rhodo- 
dendrons render useful service in town, from the ease 
with which they may be transplanted in spring, with 



10 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



their flower-buds already formed. The latter shrubs 
fulfil the double office of flowering plants and evergreens. 
"When their leaves are begrimed with dirt that is plas- 
tered on them by the wind and rain, it is not altogether 
a loss of time to spend a few hours in washing them with 
a sponge and tepid soap and water. Many rhododendrons 
have the habit of flowering abundantly only every alter- 
nate season. Therefore the novice will not be dis- 
couraged at seeing but little bloom the second year, 
provided they have been planted in a bed of heath-mould. 
Birthworth, the Blue Passion-flower, Virginian Creeper, 
the "White and Yellow Jessamines, several species of 
clematis, and ivy, are perennial creepers that bear the 
town air well, as does the Everlasting Pea ; annuals are 
the Scarlet Runner and its variety the Painted Lady, 
and the common Nasturtium, of sterling value. The 
Tuberous or Potato Nasturtium, deserves to be more 
generally known as a tough-constituted town dimber. 
Hops (when not smitten with the plague of aphides) 
make elegant festoons for the balcony or verandah. 
Sweet Williams, raised from seed, in spring, in the 
country, and brought to town in March, will mostly 
make a gay bed for one season at least. The same 
of Canterbury bells, several Campanulas, Lychnises, 
Phloxes, and Paeonies. Sunflowers, white and yellow 
mallows, ten-week stocks, the Virginian stock, the 
Clarkias, the Antirrhinums, tall double Poppies, the 
double Marigold, the (Enotheras, or Evening Primroses, 
the Candytufts, Sweet Peas, and several Lupines^ are 
acceptable annuals. Where there is room, the Lime is a 
good town tree, leafing early in spring, and perfuming 
the air with its blossoms in August, besides attracting 
the hum of bees ; it also bears lopping, clipping, and 
training well. The Elder remains of moderate size, and 
its bunches of flowers are admirable. The various species 
of crabs, pears, and apples even thrive the better for the 
overdose of carbon which the atmosphere of towns con- 
tains. Dwarf Apple and Pyramidal Pear Trees, such as 
may be bought in Prance for tenpence each, might be 



T0W3T GABDENS. 



11 



grown in even small gardens, if town gardeners did but 
understand the mode of keeping them in order, both at 
branch and root. 

Grass is such a staple article in English gardens, and, 
in truth adds so much to their beauty, that it seems hard 
to discourage its employment in towns. And yet, what 
are most of the grass-plots met with there, even with all 
the expense that is incurred for returfing, sanding, rolling, 
mowing, and guano ? Too often do we behold half-naked 
patches of ground, like threadbare coats or shocking-bad 
hats, that you have no pleasure in looking at, and are 
afraid to walk on. If the blades- of grass will spindle up, 
long, lank, few, and far between, — if the roots will not 
tiller and thicken, — it is better to occupy the space with 
something else, even with a layer of clean bright gravel. 
Where a strip of green is wanted to run along the 
ground, as at the foot of buildings, round the base of a 
pedestal, or as the frame-work of a grass plot that is 
intended never to be trodden on, Ivy answers the purpose 
well, especially if the band of green is broad. The court 
of the Louvre, at Paris, furnishes a good example. If a 
narrow edging is all that is required, the Lesser Peri- 
winkle, planted thick, answers well, and will besides show 
its azure flowers in mild winters and forward springs. 
Roses are unsuited for towns ; the Moss, Yellow, Bank- 
sian, and Austrian, especially so. Still, if your site 
tempts you to venture a few, try the Old White, the 
Maiden's Blush, the Old Striped Kosa Mundi, the Port- 
land Rose, the Common Pink and Crimson Chinas, 
Madame Hardy (Bourbon), the coarser varieties of Bosa 
Gallica, Brutus or Brennus, and Aimee Vibert. One of 
the Boursault Hoses, which are vigorous climbers, — for 
instance, either the Blush Boursault (Calypso), or the 
Crimson Boursault (Amadis), — trained against a wall 
with a sunny and airy aspect, will sometimes, and per- 
haps, allow you to bud other varieties on it with tolerable 
success. Select the most vigorous perpetual Boses for 
the experiment. The best mignonette is raised in the 
country, and brought to its city destination when just 



12 



THE PLOWEE GABDEK, 



beginning to flower. A professional gardener will take 
charge of your boxes, and return them stocked with 
healthier plants than you can raise at home. Violets, 
pansies, primroses, polyanthuses, anemones, heaths, and 
double daisies, do not bloom well " in populous cities 
pent," although they may not quite give up the ghost, 
Thrift, with its pink blossoms, and London Pride, with its 
pretty rosettes of leaves, are wonderfully hard to kill. 
The Lily of the Valley will often come up, spread, and 
blossom, year after year ; so will its cousins, the Solo- 
mon's Seals. In not too choked town situations, an 
interesting branch of gardening may be practised on roofs 
and the tops of walls, by covering them with stonecrops, 
or Sedums, white and yellow, Houseleek, wall-flowers, 
Antirrhinums, both upright and pendulous, orpines, 
irises, and where continuance of shade is long, with 
mosses, polypody, wall-rue, cup-moss, and other elegant 
cryptogamous plants. Even trees will grow on the tops 
of walls (if the seed can drop into a convenient chink) , 
as the Common Ash and the Mountain Ash, 

A difficulty in town gardens is to keep things from 
being wire-drawn, from running up tall with all their 
leaves at the top and the lower part of their stems naked, 
and from stretching out their branches, weak and droop- 
ing, to the right and left. "Want of light and air, after 
which the plants are stretching, is the cause of this lank 
and difluse habit of growth ; but the more it is allowed 
to go on unchecked, the worse the evil will become. The 
remedy is, careful and constant pruning, both of the 
spring and the summer shoots, so as to keep the shrub or 
tree as dense and compact as possible. Unfortunately, 
primings which improve the mass of foliage also diminish 
the quantity of flowers. In towns, many laburnums, 
lilacs, Guelder roses, thorns, and almond-trees, which 
would bloom respectably if allowed to run on and on. 
flower not at all if they are cut close back. The fact is 
the result of the situation, and a sacrifice of some kind 
must be made. Isolated trees and shrubs, instead of 
being planted in clumps, are less liable to spindling in 



TOYTS QJU&DEKS. 



13 



town. A small greenhouse in town is useful, to receive 
in winter the shrubs and plants with which the balconies, 
steps, and windows may be adorned in summer. A pair 
or two of large American aloes, of orange-trees, pome- 
granates, and oleanders, in tubs or boxes, may be thus 
kept in health for years, and will give more style to the 
aspect of a house than a multitude of little ephemeral 
flowers in pots. Of course, town gardening is more ex- 
pensive and requires more constant attention than rural 
floriculture. The man of business, who has but little 
leisure to spare, will save much time and trouble (though 
he will also lose much wholesome mental relaxation), by 
contracting with a nurseryman by the year for the renewal 
of his bulbs and bedding-plants. Nor is such the way to 
economize. But for those who are fully occupied ail day 
long, and who still like to see their little plot embroidered 
with flowers, although they can only admire their changing 
beauties as each successive Sunday comes round, the aid 
of a respectable nurseryman is well worth the considera- 
tion of proprietors of town and suburban gardens. 

It will cost very little more expense and trouble to 
plant, instead of the ordinary hardy shrubs and trees, 
others, varieties of the same species, whose appearance 
is more remarkable and unusual. For instance, there is 
the Cut-leaved Alder to take the place of the common 
Alder. The cut-leaved, variegated, and yellow-berried 
Elders, though they need not supersede, may thrive in 
company with the elder of the hedge. The Hazel with 
dark purple leaves, harmonizes well with the Copper 
Beech; though, unfortunately, nothing but moss will 
grow under the shade and drip of Beech-trees. The 
"Weeping Walnut (by no means common) bears excellent 
fruit, besides making even a more massive tent of foliage 
than that characteristic tree, the Weeping Ash. There 
are also weeping elms, sophoras, birches, thorns, acacias, 
cherries, peaches, and - others, from the stature of shrubs 
to the altitude of timber trees. A pair of Weeping Wil- 
lows, one on each side of a gateway, or at each corner of 
a respectable-sized front garden, have a happy effect in 



14 



THE ELOWEB GABDEiN". 



breaking, not too abruptly, lines of building, besides 
sheltering the mansion from gusty winds, and serving as 
a blind against intrusive gazers. The "Weeping "Willow 
has the advantage of leafing early, and also of retaining 
its foliage late. Cuttings raised from Napoleon's Willow 
differ somewhat from those usually grown in England, 
and have therefore the merit of novelty as well as of 
historic interest. Magnolias, trained against a wall, will 
not unfrequently produce their immense, white, power- 
fully-scented flowers within the precincts of a city, not 
to mention their evergreen foliage. Another class of 
materials suitable for town gardens, on account of their 
highly artificial aspect, are the trees and shrubs with 
blotched, speckled and mottled leaves, — as ivy, aucuba, 
syriiiga, althaeas, maples, rhododendrons, and others, 
making altogether a long list. Some of these variegated 
plants, being of delicate constitution, require extra atten- 
tion to their soil and pruning. In England, town trees 
scarcely receive so much attention as is bestowed on them 
in Paris, and as, in fact, they well deserve. Along the 
Boulevards, and in many private and public gardens in 
the Erench metropolis, are to be seen fine specimens, 
both young and old, of a tree called Ailantlius gJandulosus^ 
which is scarcely ever heard of here, and which, indeed, is 
by no means common in this country. It is very handsome 
while still quite young, may be easily made to run up 
with a tall straight stem before forming its bold spread- 
ing head, and, as Dr. Lindley observes, independent of 
its value as timber, it has good qualities, even in an 
ornamental point of view, which ought to have saved it 
from neglect ; for it is perfectly hardy, has a most noble 
aspect, and grows excessively fast. It is a native of the 
northern provinces of China, and may be rapidly propa- 
gated in England from suckers, which it produces freely. 
The tree had been growing nearly thirty years in this 
country before its introduction into Erance ; and now, 
while it is forgotten here, both there and in Italy it is 
much valued as a tree for shading public walks, and is 
planted for that purpose, as well as in gardens, together 



VILLA GARDENS. 



15 



with the Tulip-tree, the Catalpa, the Horsechestnut, the 
Platanus, and other large-leaved exotic trees, to whose 
number the Paulownia may now be added. Loudon's 
account of the Ailanthus shows how well it is adapted 
for towns. " Its leaves are not liable to be attacked by 
insects, which is a very great recommendation ; and they 
continue on the tree, and retain their green colour, till 
the first frosts in November, when the leaflets drop sud- 
denly off, the petioles remaining on often a week or two 
longer. The tree grows in any soil, though one that is 
light and somewhat humid, and a sheltered situation, suit 
it best. In France, it is said to thrive on chalky soils, 
and attain a large size, where scarcely any other tree 
will grow. It is readily propagated by cuttings of the 
roots." 

VILLA GARDENS. 

The town gardener is restricted to growing what he 
can, and must be content to think that he has not 
laboured in vain if he can make a respectable display of 
foliage and flowers, no matter of what genera and spe- 
cies, exotic or native. A villa gardener has better 
opportunities, both as to greater extent of space and 
more favourable conditions of growth. Still, even he 
will be controlled by limits and prohibitive circumstances, 
which he can neither break through nor go beyond. He 
may not be able to grow yellow roses, nor to make the 
scenery outside his boundary line subservient to that 
within it. His next-door neighbours, on either side, 
may be as opposite as the poles to himself in point of taste. 
Still, he has much within his reach. A great point in 
successful villa-gardening, is to carry out well one sole 
idea. Great variety there cannot be, nor contrast, in 
the moderate area of ground which most villas possess ; 
but there may be high finish, perfect good taste, choice 
selection, and manifestation of wealth, science, and skill. 
To attain this happy end, there must be unity oe 
design ; without it, except by the merest accident, there 
will be merely a jumbling hotch-potch or chance-medley 



16 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



salmagundi of gardening, whatever amount of cash and 
labour may be bestowed on horticultural incongruities. 
But with unity of design and a leading idea consistently 
carried out in all its details, failure is scarcely possible ; 
for, even should any blemishes result from accident while 
laying out the plan or from neglect in the parties who 
have to realize it, they will be so easy to remedy, 
when once the object in view is clearly defined, that 
a stranger will be scarcely aware of their having existed 
at all. 

On coming into possession of an old or neglected villa 
garden, wait a good twelvemonth before commencing 
alterations of any importance, even such as changing the 
line of a gravel walk. Tou will thus have time to study 
its original character, and to make what you find grow- 
ing there take their place in what you propose to do. 
Often, you will rescue treasures that otherwise would 
have been destroyed, or thrown out as rubbish. Pig- 
trees may send up strong shoots, that will produce fruit 
in a year or two, from stumps that have been cut down 
to the ground, and left for dead ; in damp out-of-the-way 
corners you may find exquisite moss roses, perhaps the 
White Bath, or the Pompone Moss; or, some thorny 
bush that ignorant eyes mistake for a bramble, may be 
the Yellow Cabbage Eose; choice Tulips, Hyacinths, 
Anemones, and Dog's-tooth Violets, may spring up and 
flower from offsets and fragments left by persons who 
meant to have removed the whole original stock of roots ; 
curious perennials, like the Dragon Arum, after being 
crushed and trodden under foot for years, may gratefully 
repay a summer's kind treatment by sending up a stem 
and inflorescence which will be the wonder and admira- 
tion of half the parish. In short, with an old villa gar- 
den, cultivate it as it is, and wait. Draining, however, 
where required, can only be productive of good. The 
same of trenching two-spade deep, or at least some- 
what lower than the top spit, which has been cropped 
perhaps for successive years without renewal. In old 
gardens, plants that have been lost are sometimes thus 



VILLA GARDENS. 



17 



recovered, by bringing up their seeds to the influence of 
air and sunshine. 

If it be your task to make a new one, first ask your- 
self " What style of garden shall we have ? To what 
branch of horticulture shall we give our attention ? On 
toJiich group of the vegetable kingdom shall we spend our 
money ? Soto shall the exterior of our villa residence 
look from without and within ? Shall we form a little 
arhoreticm, and nestle ourselves beneath a cluster of 
some dozen or twenty rare hardy trees ? Shall we go 
into the Dutch line, and gratify our taste for florists' 
flowers? Shall we make a Rosary, and be content to 
look a little naked in the winter if we can but have a 
blaze of bloom during summer and autumn? Any of 
these proposed plans can be carried out in villa gar- 
dening ; only — there must be no indecision, no patch- 
work, half-measures, nor coalitions of opposite aims and 
principles. There is one apparent exception to the rule ; 
but then it requires both more time and a more daily 
and assiduous study of garden literature than villa-pro- 
prietors can mostly afford. The amateur who, happen- 
ing to have a sufficiency of land attached to his residence, 
chooses himself to take the command of two or three 
labourers, instead of employing a professional gardener 
at high wages, will adapt his practice to various ends, 
according as utility or ornament is the object the more 
desirable in his state of affairs. His horticulture is 
mostly of the composite order ; he cultivates a garden of 
all-work. As the celebrated cobbler " lived in a stall — 
that served him for parlour, kitchen, and all," so the inde- 
pendent manager arranges a plot of ground so as to 
comprise the conveniences of orchard, kitchen-garden, 
shrubbery, parterre, and terrace. And a capital school 
it is for the men and boys who are wise enough to look 
after instruction while working in it. How well, too, 
an avenue of standard perpetual roses harmonizes with 
the line of a feathery asparagus-bed ! How little is there 
to displease in a rectangular strawberry-ground inclosed 
in a frame-work of brilliant low-growing flowers, with 

c 



18 



THE ELOWER GAEDEIS". 



an outer fillet of box, having openings left, like the 
gates of a Roman camp, for the approach of the work- 
men and the fruit-gatherers ! "What pleasant strolls 
may be taken in a wilderness of apple, bullace, cherry, 
plum, filbert, and medlar trees, with an underwood of 
periwinkles great and small, honesty, and primroses, 
and with one path at least skirting the edge of the fish- 
pond, from which a pike for dinner may always be had ! 
His visitors enjoy the combination as much as himself. 
He asks a city friend ivTiich he will have put into his 
carriage — a basket of flowers, or a hamper of vegeta- 
bles ; — and the answer is, " Both !" But, after all, this 
form of gardening is more practicable at the country par- 
sonage, the wealthy farmhouse, and the mansions of our 
minor aristocracy, than at the villa proper. Nor can it 
be called a style devoid of design and principle ; for it is 
eminently the utilitarian and experimental style of 
gardening. 

A very eligible garden for English villas is the winter 
garden, or garden of evergreens, with a large proportion 
of grassy slopes and lawns. It by no means excludes 
gay flowers in summer ; but they must be such as either 
entirely disappear in winter, or mark their positions by 
tufts of green leaves. Standard and pillar roses can, 
therefore, be but sparingly admitted ; whilst hollyhocks, 
paeonies, dahlias, bulbous flowers, and the whole legion 
of annuals, must be pressed into the service, without the 
least scruple of overtaxing their powers. Very telling 
winter clumps may be made of brilliant-berried shrubs^ 
— pyracanthus, snowberry, the wild Guelder rose, the 
barberries evergreen and deciduous, the spindle tree, 
the mountain ash, and the yew. A sufficiency of scar- 
let or fancy* geraniums and verbenas may often be 
nursed in the house, on window-sills, to supply a few beds 
on the lawn, and to take the place of the early spring 
bulbs. Still, the show from November to March is the 
main point to be attended to. There maybe chrysanthe- 

* See " Fancy Geraniums ; a Practical Treatise" (3d.), by Thornhill 
and Dickson, Nurserymen, Bristol. 



Y1LXA. GAKDEXS. 



19 



mums, and common pink and crimson China roses, in 
beds, and isolated plants of the Double-blossomed Furze 
and the Dwarf Almond. To fringe the belts or clumps 
of laurel and laurestinus, you may have Colt's-foot, the 
scentless-white and the heliotrope-scented, and the pink 
buds of that little bright-blue flower, which is often mis- 
called Forget-me-not. Ilexes, and, near the sea, even 
hoary cork-trees may be grown in England. The good 
old varieties of Holly ought to be held in reverential 
esteem. On the arbutus, fruit, flowers, and foliage, all 
court approval at once ; rosemary and southernwood will 
glitter with the dew of a wintry forenoon, at the back 
of a mass of the white Christmas rose and the green- 
flowered hellebore, fringed irregularly with the dwarf 
golden blossoms of the "Winter Aconite. As the season 
advances, a bed of Erica carnea will be thickly covered 
with rosy blossoms ; and then will follow Snowdrops, 
Hepaticas, Yan Thol Tulips, Hyacinths, Vernal Squills, 
and a host of other pretty things. Primroses make a 
lively bed in spring ; in many woods, on a moory black 
soil, the self-sown primroses will sport into a great 
variety of colour ; hardly two are to be found alike. They 
pass from bright sulphur, through sad-coloured neutral 
tints, to orange, lilac, and vivid crimson. It is easy to 
have a bed filled with the proper soil, to search for or 
procure specimens, and transfer them to their final site. 
The mixture of a few choice plants from cottage gardens, 
adds brilliancy by their more decided hues ; but the best 
effect is obtained when the primroses are taken quite at 
random. Patches of Pulmonaria, or Lungwort, with 
leaves of mottled green, and flowers changing from pink 
to blue, are not to be despised in a spring garden : nor 
are the single blue Eussian and double pink Neapolitan 
Violets, the Wood-laurel, the Pyrus Japonica, and "Wall- 
flowers, double and single, yellow and brown. Something 
actual may be thus accomplished to elicit a smile from the 
grimmest of the seasons. 

Country-houses have sometimes damp, shady courts 
and nooks, intermediate out-door dens between the back- 

c 2 



20 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



yard and the garden, which puzzle the owner what to do 
with them. They are too much in everyday sight, as 
well as too damp to hold either firewood or tools, or 
domestic animals, — and to what other purpose to turn 
them, he cannot tell. Such a corner will often make a 
capital eernery, where a curious, beautiful, and myste- 
rious Natural Family of Plants may be cultivated. The 
British ferns alone will furnish a number of handsome 
hardy species, — though all British ferns are not hardy. 
Persons inclined to adopt the suggestion, will be aided 
by the study of " Sowerby's Ferns," or the magnificent 
" Ferns of Great Britain, Nature-printed, Life-size." 
" Lowe's History of Ferns, British and Exotic," is also 
in the course of publication. 

An essential convenience is thus pointed out in Paul's 
clever "Hand-Book of Villa Gardening:"—" Much of 
the comfort and enjoyment in a garden depends on the 
state of the walks. Their formation may appear a simple 
matter, but it is one that requires attention. In wet and 
retentive soils, the earth should be removed to the depth 
of a foot or so, and a foundation laid of broken bricks, 
rubble, or coarse gravel ; over these successive coats of 
finer gravel may be laid, keeping the centre of the walk 
slightly raised, and contriving a fall when possible, that 
the effects of a heavy shower may the more speedily pass 
away. It is very pleasant to be able to traverse the prin- 
cipal walks of a garden with comfort five minutes after a 
spring shower, and there is no reason why this should 
not be done, if they are properly contrived." 

Country Gardens, or those adjoining the country seats 
of wealthy families, are often on a magnificent and even 
a royal scale. In British gardens of this class, the acme 
of horticultural perfection is attained. Their manage- 
ment is intrusted to able and experienced persons, who 
have no need of admonition from a book like this ; on the 
contrary, it is from their practised intelligence that its 
writer is too happy to learn. Without further preface, 
therefore, a summary shall be given of Bulbous Flowers, 
Tuberous and Khizomatous Flowers, Herbaceous Flowers, 



BULBOUS FLOWERS. 



21 



Shrubby and Sub-shrubby Flowers, Annuals, and Flower- 
ing Trees. In addition to the necessaries required for 
Kitchen Garden use, the florist must have a stock of 
various soils, in assortments, as leaf-mould, heath-mould, 
silver-sand, hazel-loam, the materials of old cucumber- 
beds ; besides a hotbed in spring, cool frames, and a small 
greenhouse, if possible ; a cellar for roots and plants in 
winter, a shed in which to pot plants and keep seeds and 
bulbs, plenty of flowerpots for the rearing of bedding 
plants and cuttings, shallow pans and boxes for raising- 
seedlings, stakes (of wood, not iron) to support Dahlias 
and Standard Roses, and, whatever else may be added to 
the list, a small library of the best works on Horti- 
culture. 

BULBOUS FLOWERS. 

A bulb is a very complete and simple form of vege- 
table existence. To the question, " "What, amongst 
plants, constitutes an individual?" the most generally 
received answer is, " A bud is an individual ;" so that an 
oak-tree is a collection of individuals, something as cer- 
tain corals are a collection of polypes. Now, a bulb is a 
bud on a larger scale. The buds that are formed and 
drop off from the junction of the leaf and the stem in 
certain lilies, are miniature bulbs. Bulbs enjoy the 
advantage of being more independent of a fixed residence 
in the soil than many other plants. During their 
period of rest, they may be kept out of the ground, be 
made the subject of merchandise, and be transported to 
very considerable distances. Meanwhile their vitality is 
still in full force, and important changes, such as the for- 
mation of the future blossom, is going on within them. 
In due time, they again require the nutriment supplied 
by the rains and the earth ; just as an animal that has lain 
torpid all winter, seeks his food on awakening in the 
spring. The capability of propagation by offsets is 
another point of interest belonging to bulbs. Young 
progeny, exactly resembling the parent plant, are thus 
produced with certainty. Bulbs often are the subjects 



22 THE FLOWEK GABDEN. 

of the first attempts at horticulture by juvenile gar- 
deners ; and are occasionally the only means by which 
city residents can gratify their taste for growing flowers. 
By far the great majority of bulbs produce exceedingly 
handsome blossoms, often odoriferous and even highly- 
scented. As a general rule, too, they are early rather 
than late in their season of flowering, and readily sus- 
ceptible of forcing by artificial heat. They are well 
adapted for pot culture, for at least one season; the 
next, they may be returned to the open ground, and 
replaced by others to succeed them in the greenhouse or 
the parlour window. Bulbs produce annually only a 
limited number of leaves ; if these are destroyed, they 
are not reproduced, as is the case with most trees, shrubs, 
and herbaceous plants. Consequently, the leaves of 
bulbs must be carefully protected and preserved during 
the whole period of their growth, both before flowering 
and after ; otherwise, the plant will suffer from the failure 
of those functions which all leaves perform. Bulbs are 
solid, like the tulip ; coated, like the hyacinth and the 
onion ; and scaly, like the white and the orange lily. Tor 
convenience, bulbous flowers are here arranged in alpha- 
betical order, which will be adhered to for the plants in 
other sections. 

Agapanthus umbellatus or umielliferus. — A striking 
plant, which is too much confined to the greenhouse, 
inasmuch as the lovely blue of its handsome head of 
flowers only attains its fulness in the open air. The 
Agapanthus is only half-hardy in England ; and though 
it may be permitted to remain throughout the winter in 
the open ground, under a covering of litter or leaves, it 
must always be at a risk. It is safer to keep the bulbs 
in pots (which must be large) in good, light, rich soil. 
At the beginning of June, these pots may be sunk in a 
bed or along a border, being liberally supplied with water 
in hot dry weather. "Where there is a good stock of 
bulbs in hand, half may be ventured in the garden, and 
half retained in pots, to be removed into a cold frame for 
the winter. [Flowering commences in July, and con- 



BXTLBOTS FLOWEES. 



tinues daring the summer if the plants are indulged 
plenty of water, of which they are greedy at that time. 
Propaerate by division of the bulb, planting the offset 
immediately. Seedling3 (to be sown on peat-mould) will 
not come into a flowering state before their fourth year 
at soonest. Damp is the great enemy of the Agapanthus 
during its dormant period. Plants, therefore, to remain 
out the winter must have a weti-drained situation. 

Amaryllis. — A showy genus, belonging rather to the 
greenhouse than the garden. They require a strict 
observance of the periods of growth and rest, and care- 
ful attention to the health of their foliage. While 
dormant, moisture is fatal to them ; at the same time, in 
cur l;.t::uir, a mild insular climate suits them best. The 
A. belladonna is greatly admired for its large pink sweet- 
scented flowers, which appear from August to October. 
A iimcuity is. that it succeeds better in a border than 
confined in a pot, and that the leaves do not appear till 
after the flowers, and are liable to destruction by early 
frosts in any but the most favoured spots, such as S ; nth 
Devon and the Channel Islands. The bulbs of this 
species are not fond of being disturbed too often. Once 
every three or four years is quite enough for the sepa- 
ration of the bulbs and the renewing of the mould. 
Plant in light soil containing a few calcareous ingreci: snte, 
at the depth of four or five inches. Thorough drainage, 
and covering with mats or sashes at the approach of any- 
thing like severe weather, are indispensable. 

Colchicum autumnale — Meadow Satfron, or Autumnal 
Crocus ; in French, Tue-chien, or kill-dog. — A native 
plant found abundantly in many moist pastures on heavy 
land, but of sufiicient curiosity and beauty to be admitted 
a3 an ornamental bulb. The peach-blossom tinted 
flowers, resembling the crocus in shape, appear in 
autumn: but they may really be considered as very 
early, forestalling the spring, instead of late, for they 
are duly followed by the leaves and the seed-vessel, which 
rise with the approach of genial weather. Indeed, so 
precocious are the flowers, that they appear before the 



24 



THE FLOWER GAEDEX. 



bulb has quitted its dormant state, as far as the emission 
of roots is concerned. Thus, the Colchicum will send 
forth its succession of blooms, while lying in a basket, 
on a window-sill, or in a China dish, without the contact 
of a particle of earth, to the great astonishment of the 
inexperienced. When the flowering is over it must be 
planted. An objection to it is, that its foliage is coarse 
and cumbrous in proportion to the amount of bloom 
displayed; but this may be remedied by making the 
bulbs leaf in a reserved ground, to bloom where wanted, 
Some use them as an edging. There is a double variety. 
The plant must be regarded as poisonous, though it fur- 
nishes a medicine of questionable value. Quite hardy ; 
not nice about soil, but preferring moisture. 

Crocus. — The welcome harbinger of returning sun- 
shine and cheerfulness ; although one species, C. satirus, 
or saffron, flowers in the autumn, and is cultivated for 
culinary and medicinal purposes rather than as a garden 
plant. The genus is large ; a few species only are desir- 
able for the parterre, the Alpine crocuses having mostly 
insignificant flowers, although interesting in other 
respects. The yellow crocus, C. luteus, is a general 
favourite ; but requires a bright sunny day for its perfect 
expansion. The Cloth of Gold, C. Susianus, which has 
been put forward to rival it, is far inferior. C. vermis 
includes many shades between lilac and white. Crocuses 
are employed either as an edging, in separate tufts along 
the border, or to form geometrical patterns, and even 
coats of arms, in combination with hepaticas, snow- 
drops, bands of gravel, chalk, small coal &c. &c, on a 
smooth grass-plat. Such devices may be made to accord 
well with the formal and architectural style of garden- 
ing ; but their effect is scarcely appreciated on the level 
ground. It must be seen from a first or second-floor 
window. In landscape-gardening, C. vemus may be 
employed as a charming decorative adjunct if profusely 
and irregularly planted beneath clumps of tall trees, per- 
haps in combination with snowdrops and winter aconite, 
in such a way as to imitate a particoloured carpet 



BULBOUS PLOTTERS. 



25 



spread by the hand of Mature herself. In parterres, the 
species are better kept separate ; that is, at least in 
separate patches or rows, because they do not all flower 
exactly at the same time. Thus, the bright yellow 
blooms before the white and the purple : and if their 
combined effect is counted upon, disappointment will 
mostly ensue. Crocuses, in general, like a light, moist 
soil. Plant them in September, at the depth of from 
three to four inches, and take them up for division and 
transplantation every fourth summer at longest, after 
the leaves are completely withered. The reason is, not 
only that by multiplication of -offsets they become too 
crowded to bloom well, but that every year new corms 
(as these solid bulbs are called) are formed above the 
old ones, and in course of time rise to the very surface 
of the ground, the inconvenience of which in a garden is 
obvious. In a state of nature it is otherwise. In the 
Alps, wild crocuses are abundant in swampy hollows 
into < which the brooklets, caused by the melting snows, 
bring with them a small but perceptible deposit of mud. 
This thin layer is, of course, annually repeated, and a 
stationary bulb would in a few years be buried beyond 
the power of vegetation. It is, perhaps, not too much 
an indulgence of fancy to believe that the upward pro- 
gress of the corms is an adaptation designed to enable 
them to keep pace with the gradual elevation of the soil 
in which they are rooted. Although several species seed 
freely, the usual mode of propagation is by offsets. 
After flowering, be careful to leave the foliage perfectly 
uninjured until the full period of its natural decay. To 
avoid the inevitable incumbrance of these leaves in small 
gardens, it is not a bad plan to form beds or baskets of 
crocuses in plunged pots, which may be removed to give 
place to other flowers. The same mode of shifting and 
succession is applicable to many other bulbs, and only 
requires a little industry to carry out. 

Crown Imperial — F.ritillaria Imperialis. — A coarse, 
though bold and showy flower, welcome in April for its 
erect stem, a yard or more high, and the decided charac- 



26 



THE PLOWXE c.ASLiy. 



rer of irs foliage, in spire of the offensive fox-like smell 
■which it exhales in sufficient force :•: jusriry irs banish- 
ment to the most distant part of the parterre, or even bo 
the shrubbery. The colour of irs flowers varies :_ ; 
light sulphur-yellow to a deep i>range-red. Such varie- 
ties are obtained from seed sown as soon as ripe. The 
Dutch or large-belled :row» iwoerial. F, maxima, de- 
serves special notice on account of its height, and for the 
number, size, and beauty of its flowers. Like other 
fritiilarias. the crown imperial thrives best in a light, 
well-drained soil, containing a slight admixture of chalk. 
Protect in early spring from snails and slugs. Every 
third or fourth year, when the bulbs are too crowded, 
take them up for division at the end of June. Replant, 
at no lone interval, at the depth of eight or ten inches ; 
immediately is better, if you wish for lowers the follow- 
ing spring. 

~Lafc: ] il — Xarcissus pseud j- ich comes 

before the swallow dares, and meets the winds of March 
with beauty." has several double-flowered varieties; but 
perhaps the most pleasing and elegant of all is the ori- 
ginal wild flower which grows in humid pastures, from 
which it well deserves promotion to the garden. All 
the care the daffodil requires is to be taken up at 
intervals of several years, and to be protected from the 
ravages of ignorant jobbing-gar : who. for nearness' 

sake, as rhey call ir. will cut off the rank green leaves 
after the plant has done flowering. Xeatness. in m 
ration, is a virtue. In this case, the price at which it is 
purchased is the absence of flowers the following sj 
In the outskirts of London there are innumerable tufts 
of daffodils which year after year produce nothing but 
leaves. 

Dog's-tooth Violet — Erijtlironium dens-canis — is not a 
w at all. though it is an raw ■ pi wry lirrle 

plant, which in addition to its pinkish flowers, has 
remarkably handsome mottled leaves. Although of 
quite as easy culture as other spring bulbs, it is not so 
abundantly met with as its merits would seem to imply, 



ETLEOrS TLOWEES. 



probably on account of its not being particularly prolific 
of offsets. This graceful flower, a native of the Alps, 
has the divisions of its corolla turned up like those of 
the cyclamens. The tint varies from white to pinky- 
purple. Prefers light soil. The American species, 
E. Americanum, has yellow flowers, and requires the 
same culture, i. e.. to be taken up every two or three 
years. It has a tendency to run to offsets instead 
of flowers, which is best obviated by planting in light 
peat soil, such as would be used for heaths and rhodo- 
dendrons. 

Fritilkiry — Fritillaria meleagris. — Chequered Lily or 
Chess-board Flower, — is a native, hardy, and early-flower- 
ing plant, whose grass-like leaves and pendulous flowers 
render it a general favourite. In tint, it varies consider- 
ably, from greenish white to dark dull purple. In well- 
drained soil, the roots may remain for a succession of 
years without removal or protection. The Persian 
Fritillary, F. Fersica, a larger species, is more delicate, 
requires a lighter soil, and the shelter of a cold frame or 
greenhouse in winter. 

Garlie. — Several species of Allium are grown as border 
flowers ; A. Molt/, with golden-yellow flowers, of which 
there is a white variety, being the most generally culti- 
vated. There are also white and pink-flowering species. 
One parodoxical Garlic, A. fragrans or odorum, is agree- 
ably scented. They are showy, increase rapidly by bulb, 
prefer a warm dry light soil, and require no further care 
than separation every second or third year. Their generally 
offensive odour would seem to render them unfit for the 
flower-garden, whilst their gay appearance suggests their 
employment in tricks on inexperienced admirers of 
flowers. A. Moly, however, does not prove disagreeable 
in large bouquets which are only to be looked at without 
being handled. 

diolus — Corn Flag, — The wild European species. 
6r. communis, is perfectly hardy in England, and delights 
the eye in summer by its tapering spikes of bright red 
flowers. The bulbs are corms like those of the crocus, 



28 



THE PLOWEB GABDEK. 



and only require separation and replanting at intervals of 
several seasons. Of late years, several foreign and highly 
ornamental species of Gladioli have been introduced, and 
from these not a few showy hybrids have been raised. 
They are all more or less tender, safest under pot culture 
or in raised beds covered with shutters or sashes in win- 
ter, requiring light soil and the complete absence of 
moisture during their period of rest. If ventured out in 
the open ground, they must have a well-drained spot, 
and be covered in winter with six inches of dry litter, 
sawdust, or withered leaves. Established thus, they 
bloom magnificently ; but there is always the danger that 
some unusually severe frost or extraordinary continuance 
of cold and wet may destroy the whole collection. 
Deservedly admired species are G. cardinalis, psittacinus, 
grand iflor us, gandavensis, blcmdus, versicolor, CohUlii, and 
ringens, besides varieties and hybrids too numerous to 
specify here. 

Guernsey Lily — Nerine Sarniensis. — A native of 

Japan. It is an old story that a ship homeward bound 

from thence was wrecked on the Gruernsev coast, 

■ 

where the Asiatic bulbs have ever since thriven so well 
as to be objects of export. The plant produces in 
autumn a head of eight or ten bright red flowers. After- 
wards, the bulbs are mostly thrown away, from the diffi- 
culty of getting them to bloom afterwards, or even to 
survive. The care and appliances they would require to 
perfect their foliage are mostly bestowed on more valuable 
plants. Indeed, they are hardly worth the trouble they 
give. They are pretty, and that is all. Plant the bulbs, 
as soon as they arrive, in pots of sandy loam, in the sun- 
niest part of the greenhouse. 

The Hyacinth — Hyacinthus orientalis. — There are 
three modes of growing hyacinths ; in glasses, in pots, 
and in beds. The former may be speedily dismissed; 
for the powerful and headache-causing odour of the 
flowers renders them unsuitable for living rooms, except 
in small numbers in vast apartments. Early hyacinths 
are more agreeable as decorations for the entrance-hall ? 



BULBOUS FLOWERS. 



29 



the glazed corridor, the balcony, the greenhouse, or the 
saloon and occasional reception-room. The only satis- 
faction to be derived from bulbs in glasses is the power of 
beholding the roots, and of watching their descent in the 
water. Otherwise, the plant, as it grows, becomes a 
wretched unsteady thing, even when supported by wires, 
for want of its natural foot-hold in the soil ; it is exhausted 
and nearly worthless for the following season ; and the 
practice might be reprehended a3 a flagrant case of cruelty 
to flowers, if such an offence were recognised by society. 

Forced hyacinths, in pots, are deservedly general 
favourites ; and the more gently they are forced, the 
more slowly they are brought forward, if only by the 
temperature of an ordinary sitting-room and full exposure 
to the sunshine in the window, the better-grown will be 
the specimens. This, too, will allow of the pleasure of 
noting the development of the rising flower-stem. If the 
perfected bloom exhales too oppressive a perfume, it can 
then be removed to ornament a cooler part of the house, 
which will protract the duration of its beauty. 

The hyacinth strikes its roots vertically downward to a 
depth which is considerable in proportion to the diameter 
of the bulb and which is greater than the height of 
flower-pots usually allowed to roots of that size. The 
idea therefore suggested itself to manufacture tall cylin- 
drical pots, of narBOW diameter, expressly for growing 
thi3 flower ; and lovers of hyacinths will do well to make 
use of them. In an ordinary garden-pot ' of sufficient 
depth (not less than ten or eleven inches), a clump or 
knot of hyacinths of different colours may be grown. 
Three is a good number to constitute these bouquets, 
sher in pots or in the open border ; and the permu- 
tations and combinations that may be worked out in this 
way ^vith the different colours of white, blush, pink, pale 
yellow, red. porcelain-blue, deep blue, violet, and dark 
purple, afford a varied scope for the amateur's taste to 
exercise itself. One point must not be forgotten in 
respect to hyacinths ; some of the single varieties are 
even in higher esteem than the double ; moreover, they 



30 



THE ELOWEE GAKDEN. 



come earlier into bloom. Therefore, to produce a good 
effect, the knots should consist of all single or all double 
flowers, that the members of the group may bloom simul- 
taneously. Even in beds, it is strongly advisable to keep 
the double and single flowers separate. For a general 
collection, it is better to have two beds than one ; other- 
wise, some specimens will be beginning to fade before 
others have attained their beauty. 

It is usual to begin hyacinth-growing by the purchase 
of imported Dutch bulbs in September. After a collec- 
tion is formed, it will be found necessary to draft in 
annual reinforcements from abroad, because certain 
varieties and colours multiply much more rapidly by off- 
sets than others ; so that, in a year or two, the amateur 
will find himself over-stocked with one kind, while others 
run short. The former he may give away, or turn out 
into the open border ; for the latter he had better apply, 
and that in good time, to the nurserymen who import. 
Respectable dealers may be depended on to furnish a 
good article of genuine Dutch origin. 

The soil for hyacinths is a compost, prepared before- 
hand, consisting of light loam, leaf-mould, river-sand, and 
well-rotted dung, in about equal proportions. It does 
no harm if the sand rather predominates. Put two or 
three crocks at the bottom of the pot, fill it neatly full 
with the soil which has already been well incorporated ; 
give the pot two or three gentle taps on the ground to 
settle its contents, place the bulb in the middle, press it 
down a little with the fingers, and then add just so much 
compost, that one third of the bulb shall remain un- 
covered. Not only do the hyacinths do better in pots 
when the upper part of the bulb is thus left exposed, 
but the basis and origin of the flower left visible becomes 
itself an ornament, having its own distinctive complexion 
and features visible to the observant eye. It is said that 
one of the great Dutch growers could recognise two 
thousand varieties of hyacinth by the bulb. After potting, 
give a good watering, and let them stand under some shed 
or other sheltered place for three or four days. Small 



BULBOUS FLOWEBS. 



31 



growers may then remove them to the cellar or the cold 
frame (covered with matting), to remain there till the 
central bud has started from a quarter to half an inch, _ 
when they must all be exposed to light and increased 
warmth. Before that state of advancement, small batches 
of half a dozen or more, may be brought forward to be 
hastened in the hotbed, or the parlour window, as 
required, in succession. Large growers, such as Messrs. 
Henderson, of the "Wellington Nursery, St. John's 
"Wood, place their potted and watered hyacinths in beds 
five feet wide, and throw old tan over them, to the depth 
of five or six inches ; and this is allowed to remain until 
the pots are quite full of roots, and the tops have made 
a growth of one or two inches. Sand, instead of spent 
tan, has been occasionally employed for the same pur- 
pose, and is a convenient substitute in many localities. 
They are then carefully looked over, and any that are 
not sufficiently rooted are replunged. Great care should 
be taken that they are not left in the tan, or sand, too 
long ; if they remain there till the leaves begin to open, 
the flower is very likely to be injured. Such as are well 
rooted are placed in a cold frame, where they can be 
securely protected from frost, and have plenty of air at 
every opportunity. If flowers are wanted early in the 
season, a hotbed is prepared with dung that has been 
well worked previous, to making up the bed. As soon as 
the hotbed is sufficiently sweetened, a few pots are put 
into it every week, to keep up a succession from Christ- 
mas till March, at which time the others will be coming 
on quite fast enough in the cold frame. Although most 
hyacinths succeed very well without artificial heat, many 
are greatly improved by it. Indeed, all that do not 
bloom kindly in the cold frame will be benefited by 
applying dung-heat. The bulbs that are kept in the cold 
frame all the winter from the time they were taken cut 
of the tan are generally in finest bloom from the middle 
of March till the second, week in April. After that, they 
begin to decline. 

Hyacinth-beds should not be more than five feet wide, 



THE FLOWER GARDEK. 



for the convenience of reaching as far as the middle, 
though they may be any size less, according to taste. 
The length, also, is arbitrary ; the owner of a large col- 
lection of bulbs will judge for himself whether the most 
striking effect will be obtained by a single long bed, or 
two or three short ones side by side. "When the ground 
is marked out, excavate the soil to the depth of four feet, 
if it is naturally cold and clayey, and throw in a bottom 
stratum of shingle six inches thick, for drainage. On 
light soils, three feet is sufficient, and the shingle may 
be omitted. Pill with compost the same as for pot cul- 
ture, till it is two or three inches above the level of the 
earth. On the surface of this, place the bulbs, in quin- 
cunx order, in rows six inches apart, six inches from plant 
to plant, and cover them with an additional three inches 
of compost, which may contain a larger proportion of 
silver sand than the bed itself. In this case, it would 
be dangerous to allow the upper portion of the bulb to 
be exposed to the air, unless the bed were made in a 
conservatory, under glass, or even in a good-sized oblong 
cucumber frame, which, with a little contrivance and taste 
may be made to serve as a temporary hyacinth-house, 
and contain a pleasing collection of choice specimens. A 
bed made as directed above, will, even after settling, be 
raised two or three inches, and will be kept neat by 
some provisional edging of wood, iron, or earthenware. 
Box is not advisable, as harbouring slugs. 

Another mode : instead of excavating the soil to re- 
ceive the compost, simply break it up well to the depth 
*of a foot or eighteen inches, and thereon raise a mound 
of compost of the required length and breadth two 
feet high, keeping it together by walls of thick green 
turf well flattened and beaten together by the spade, and 
fastened, if need be, with pegs of osier. On the top of 
this mound plant your hyacinths. Advantages are, that 
the flowers are brought nearer the admirer's eye, as if 
they stood on a low table, and that the cultivator is 
spared much painful stooping when he plants and takes 
up the bulbs and ties the top heavy flower-stems to sup- 



bullous riOWEES. 



porting sticks. On the other hand, a mound-bed requires 
frequent and regular watering ; is more exposed to gusts 
of wind, and therefore stands in greater need of the 
protection of an awning during the period of flowering ; 
and is also more liable to injury from frosts of unusual 
severity. Still, this method of cultivation introduces a 
pleasing change to the every-day routine of flower-beds 
on the ground level. 

The arrangement of the colours of the respective bulbs 
admits of the exercise of individual tastes. A common 
plan is to contrast the tints of every two adjacent blooms ; 
never to let blue stand close to blue, nor red be next- 
door neighbour to red. Others make each of their four 
or five rows to consist of various shades of the same 
colour. Mere chance-medley planting, taking the bulbs 
at hazard as they come to hand in the basket, will often, 
as in the kaleidescope, lead to brilliant combinations. A 
rich effect is obtained by following the order of the pris- 
matic spectrum ; i.e. let all the flowers at one end be 
dark purples and violets, and at the other dark reds. 
Let the purples be followed by blues and light porcelains, 
till you come to whites. Next the whites, should follow 
the yellows ; after them pinks, then full reds, and then 
dark crimson. "Were there such things as green-flowered 
hyacinths, they would come between the yellow and the 
blue, displacing the white, which might be divided to 
form a bright termination at each end of the bed. 

When the flowering is over, withhold water, and re- 
move the awning, if one has been used. The leaves have 
now to fulfil their office, and must be aided by plenty of 
air and light. The single hyacinths will probably form 
seed-vessels. If these are not required for the interesting 
though patient task of raising varieties from seed, or it 
it be feared that they will exhaust the bulb too much, do 
not cut off the flower-stem, — an operation which might 
cause the bulbs to rot, — but pick off" the berries one by 
one. leaving the stem standing. When the leaves are 
brown and dry, the bulbs may be taken up ; the soil, 
dead fibres, &c, removed ; and then the bulbs should be 



3± 



THE ILOWER G-XBDZy, 



laid with the offsets in shallow boxes, divided into com- 
partments, labelled with the names, or numbered accord- 
ing to the grower's private catalogue. Baskets are even 
better than boxes, but the"' : ; :r. a . : : 7 r ; : m . a;- tm:: 




tae same treatment toe second season. Tne tana, sum- 
mer, take up the bulbs and replant them as if they were 
onsets or flowering bulbs. The fourth year, they generally 
bloom, and the fancier may look out tor a prize cr two. 

Good .S . : / "f Hyacinths. — White* : ""Voltaire. Emieas. 
Anna Maria. "Grand Vaincueur. Aloiiere. Eeine Blanche, 
Hereule. Heiene, Themistocle. Vir^o. Mercure. Tel- 
loics : -Prince of Orange, Heroine, Eoi des Pays Bas, 
Alicia Jacoba, Anne Caroline, Jupiter, *La Pluie d'Or. 



BULBOUS FLOWEES. 



35 



Heels : Mars, Van Speyk, # Felicitas, # L'Ami du Cceur, 
Herstelde Vreede, Ampkion, Sappho, Cochenille. Blues : 
* Grande Vidette, Emicans, *Nimrod, *Vulcan, Bobinson, 
*Emilius, La plus Noire, Grand Lilac, Bolivar. 

Good Double Hyacinths. — Whites: * Vestal, Sph^era 
Mundi, Anna Maria, Gloria riorum, Mathilda, ^Triumph 
Blandina, * Minerva, Hermann Lange, Montesquieu, 
Sultan Achmet. Yellows: *Ophir, Croesus, Louis d'Or, 
Bouquet d' Orange, Jaune supreme, L'Or vegetale, Due 
deBerri d'Or. Beds: Boerhaave, Bouquet tendre; Flos 
sanguineus, Gloria Solis, Bex . rubrorum, *Grootvoorst, 
"Wellington, ^Waterloo, Panorama, Madame Zootmann, 
Honneur d' Amsterdam. Blues : Othello, # Pasquin, Boi 
des Pays Bas, # Globe celeste, Globe terrestre, *Noir 
veritable, Bonaparte, Alamode, Laurens Koster. — A very 
small collection should include those marked with the 
asterisk. 

Hyacinth, Grape — H. Muscari, or Muscari moschatum 
— bears a small spike of almost globular dull-violet 
flowers. Perfectly hardy, and may be left to take care 
of itself; but hardly worth admittance into the flower- 
garden. 

Hyacinth, Monstrous — Muscari monstrosum — does not 
deserve the honour of a specific name, being sterile, and 
only capable of propagation by offsets. Instead of a 
spike of flowers, it puts forth something like a frizzled 
wig in disorder, of a dull rosy-purple tint. Void of all 
symmetry and purpose, it can find favour with few but 
lovers of abortions and curiosities. 

Iris. — A large genus, comprising bulbous, tuberous, 
and fibrous rooted species. Of the bulbous kinds, ac- 
knowledged favourites are, the Persian iris, I. JPersica, sl 
low plant, which in March or April sends up, on a stem 
shorter than the leaves, a single, very powerfully sweet- 
scented flower, washed with blue on a light ground. 
Does better in a pot under a frame, in the same compost 
as is used for hyacinths, than in the open ground. Is 
propagated with difficulty either from seeds or offsets, 
but the bulbs may be annuallv obtained of the nursery- 

d 2 



36 



THE FLOWER GAEDE5*. 



men who import Dutch roots, and may be forced if 
required, like hyacinths. The Scorpion Iris, I, alata, a 
native of North Africa, produces in early spring two or 
three sweet-scented bright blue flowers on a very short 
stem. A curious and striking plant requiring the same 
culture as Cape bulbs (see Ixid). Two other bulbous 
species, I. ociphium and I. xipTiio'ides, are by many re- 
garded only as varieties of each other. The former is 
known as the Spanish iris, of a great diversity of tints ; 
the latter as the Spanish, Portuguese, and English iris, 
in still greater variety, sufficient to form a handsome 
collection and produce a brilliant effect when grown 
together in a bed. They flower towards the end of 
June, and are often thought to deserve an awning, like 
tulips and other choice florists' flowers, to perfect their 
bloom and prolong its duration. In other respects, too, 
bulbous irises must have a similar treatment; namely, 
as soon as their foliage is withered, they must be taken 
up, have their offsets removed when sufficiently dry, and 
be replanted in October, or better in September. A light 
sandy soil agrees with them best. Seedlings, which will 
generally produce varieties, may be obtained as directed 
for hyacinths. Six or seven inches everv wav is a suiti- 
cient distance for the adult bulbs in a bed. The Spanish 
iris, though quite hardy as a border flower, must be taken 
up at least every third year, in August, to be divided and 
replanted in September. If kept out of the ground 
much later, the blooms for the following season will fail. 
The reason which requires them to be taken up, is that 
new bulbs are annually formed beneath the old ones, 
and would finally burrow so deep as to perish. The 
plant, therefore, in a wild state, is suited for the shoulders 
of steep hills, where a slight portion of the surface soil is 
carried down to the valley every year. 

Iccia. — A lovely genus, delicate and brilliant, of low 
stature and slender growth. Unfortunately for us, their 
native home is a southern region, warm and dry, in 
comparison w T ith which their English exile is damp and 
chilly. In the greenhouse, especially on a shelf near 



BTTLBOFS FLOWEBS. 



37 



the glass, Ixias thrive at their ease ; in the garden, they 
can only be grown in favoured spots by fanciers who will 
bestow on them all the care and attention exacted by 
tender pets. Devoted cultivators of Cape bulbs will 
study Monographs, Treatises, and Transactions, too volu- 
minous to be comprised in the present syllabus. All that 
there is room to state here is, that their periods of growth 
and rest must be carefully alternated and attended to; that 
a wet sub-soil below and frost and heavy rain above are 
fatal; that their general soil is a mixture of peat-earth, leaf- 
mould, and light sandy loam, slightly enriched with the 
thoroughly-rotted dung of an old hotbed ; and that, if 
grown in the open border, their bed must be an excava- 
tion properly filled, or better a raised pit built with walls 
of brick or turf, screened by a south wall, filled with 
light compost, and capable of being protected by lights 
or shutters, occasionally by both. Various other expe- 
dients may be tried, such as a stratum of dead leaves in 
winter, oiled canvass coverings, thatchings with straw, 
&c, if the roots be ventured out of doors ; but the truth 
is, that, here, their proper place is under glass, in pots 
with a stratum of small shingle at the bottom, in which, 
according to size, more than a single bulb may be 
planted. Indeed, the bulbs are mostly so small that a 
great many of them would be lost by out-door culture in 
beds. Their treatment is much the same as that of the 
African gladioli. October is the time for planting. The 
bulbs may remain two years without shifting; but in 
that case, as soon as the bloom is faded, the pots must 
be kept in a dry situation. Ixias are propagated from 
offsets. Seedling plants often furnish pretty varieties, 
which generally flower the third year. Ixia hulbocodium 
is the only European species. The others are numerous 
and in great diversities of colour ; I. crocata, the orange 
ixia, is one of the commonest ; L polystachya is a favourite 
with the Dutch. Persons desirous of growing ixias and 
the families of plants related to them, will gain prac- 
tical information by visiting the collections and study- 
ing the lists of nurserymen. 



38 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Jonquil — Narcissus jonqitilla. — So called because its 
leaves resemble those of a rush, in Latin juncus, in 
[French jonc. The jonquil is a favourite pot-plant for 
spring forcing, partly from the good grace with which 
it submits to such treatment, but mainly for its slender 
foliage and its bright-yellow odoriferous flowers, whose 
perfume, however, is even too penetrating for many 
persons to bear in a room. The jonquil, like most of 
the other narcissi, is a native of low meadow-lands, 
and likes an abundant supply of water during its growth 
and flowering. Plant in September in any good garden 
soil. In the open border, take up the bulbs every two 
or three years ; but double jonquils should be taken up 
every year, to prevent their degenerating. Be as scru- 
pulous with them as with daffodils and crocuses, never to 
let the leaves be cut off because the gardener thinks it 
makes them look smarter, till they have perfectly fulfilled 
their office of ripening and returning the sap to the root. 
Single jonquils will furnish seed, but the quickest way of 
propagation is by offsets. Importers of Dutch roots 
will supply you with a stock at a moderate price, which, 
if you take care of them, will last you your life. 

Idly — Lilium. — A large genus, of great beauty. The 
common White Lily, L. candidwn, has been grown in 
gardens from time immemorial ; it has blotched-leaved 
and striped-leaved varieties. The Orange Lily, L. cro- 
ceum, a native of Austria, may be found in almost every 
cottage plot of flowers, where it amuses the children by 
smearing their noses, when they go to smell of it, with 
its yellow pollen. The Tiger Lily, L. tigrinum, from 
China, where its bulbs are eaten, has handsome orange- 
red flowers speckled with black, and is remarkable, though 
not singular, on account of the numerous little bulbs 
which are produced along the stem at the foot of each 
leaf. The Martagon, or Turk's-cap Lily, L. inartagon, 
from the Alps, has an unpleasant smell emitted by its 
numerous dull purple flowers, spotted with small black 
dots; but its colour varies. The Scarlet Turk's-cap, I. 
calcedonicum, is handsomer ; while the Yellow Turk's-cap, 



BTJLBOUS TLOWEES. 



39 



L. Pgrmaiemn, offers the curious contrast of yellow petals 
and scarlet anthers. The Canada Lily, L. Canadense, 
bears numerous yellow flowers. All these are quite 
hardy, and suited to the open border. The Tiger Lily 
is most vigorous and beautiful when growing in heath- 
mould. For the others, ordinary garden soil will do. 
Every third or fourth year, take up the tufts of bulbs, 
separate and plant them at once at the depth of three or 
four inches. Although they will travel to a distance, if 
required, they will flower not so well, or not at all, next 
spring, if kept out of the ground too long. The Bul- 
biferous Lily, L. hdbiferum. from the Alps, is also hardy, 
but is a less showy plant than those already mentioned. 
The Dwarf Lily, L. pa mil urn. appears to be only a variety 
of the common Orange Lily, is more delicate, and requires 
a light and sandy soil. The Pompone Lily, L. Pompo- 
nium, from the Pyrenees and Siberia, the dark red divi- 
sions of whose corolla turn back so as to form a sort of 
turban, prefers light fresh soil from a pasture, a shady 
situation, and, like most other Alpine plants, is all the 
safer for protection in winter, to imitate its native shelter 
of snow. 

Species requiring a little more pains to cultivate are 
the Philadelphian Lily, L. Philadelpliicam, a charming 
plant, about two feet high, which must be kept in a half- 
shady spot, potted in heath-mould, to prevent the loss of 
its offsets, which run underground. The Superb Lily, 
L. superie, must also have heath-mould and protection in 
winter, although at home, in North America, the frosts 
are severer than with us. So it may remain, to be 
taken up and replanted every third or fourth year. 
Although thriving better for a certain amount of shade, 
it is apt to damp off and rot in wet situations. The 
Carolina Lily, L. Carolinianirm, also requires heath- 
mould. The Kamtschatka Lily bears yellow jonquil- 
scented flowers, blooming in July, and, as its name 
indicates, is an alpine. The Monadelphian Lily, L. 3Iona- 
delpham, so styled from" its stamens being united, as in 
the Linnean class Monadelphia, for one-third of their 



40 



THE ELOWEB GABDETS". 



length, and Szowitz's Lily, often confounded with the 
preceding, are similar in constitution. The Isabelle 
Lily, Jj. testaceum, of a light bright brick-red or buff, of 
unknown origin, is as easy of cultivation as the common 
White and Orange Lilies. Thompson's Lily, so named 
by Dr. Lindley, has lilac flowers half the size of the 
White Lily, requires light loam, and protection from 
damps in winter. L. giganteum, a noble lily, sends up 
a flower-stem ten feet high. 

The following exquisite species are more or less hardv, 
as far as present experience goes, in a mixture of leaf- 
mould and sandy loam : The Japan Lily, L. Japonicum 
(often confounded with the sweet-scented lily, L. odorum, 
also from Japan, a treasury of flowers which has furnished 
several beautiful species of lily), a superb plant, bears 
very large solitary and terminal white flowers slightly 
dashed with purple outside. The Long-flowered Lily, 
i. longiflorum, resembles the former, but is still hand- 
somer. Brown's Lily, much in the same style, and 
Wallick's Lily, from the north of India. Perhaps the 
most elegant of all is the Lance-leaved Lily, L. speciosum, 
or lanceolatum, of which there are several varieties, which 
may be classed under the heads of white and red, or 
L. speciosum album and JO. speciosum rubrum. Plants of 
these may be had of respectable seedsmen and florists, 
such as James Carter & Co., 238, High Holborn, for 
from two to three shillings each. As yet, they are grown 
in pots, in peaty soil, and are treated as greenhouse 
perennials. They well repay any trouble that may be 
bestowed on them ; but plants from China and Japan 
have often proved more hardy than was expected at their 
first introduction. It is probable that the scaly bulbs 
of the whole Lily genus are edible in case of need. In 
rustic medicine, the pounded bulbs of the White Lily 
are a favourite cataplasm for burns and scalds. 

Narcissus. — Two species have been already noticed 
under their trivial names of Daffodil and Jonquil. By 
Narcissuses, in ordinary gardening language, are under* 
stood the Polyanth or Many-flowered Narcissus, M 



BULBOUS FLOWEES, 



41 



Tazetta, and the many varieties derived from it, as florists' 
flowers. The rest are looked upon as mere border 
flowers. N. concolor, with white blossoms, runs into* 
numerous varieties, one of the finest of which is known 
as the Grand Monarque. The poetic Narcissus, JST. 
poeticus, with its ring of purple encircling the centre of 
the flower, is not without a certain elegance. Perhaps 
the most prepossessing species, on account of its dwarf 
habit, its less powerful odour, and its graceful mien, is 
the pretty little Hoop-petticoat Narcissus, JS T . bidbo- 
codium, which though not a rare, is far from being a 
vulgar flower, as it increases anything but rapidly by off- 
sets. Grown in pots, it well deserves a place in spring 
in every sunshiny parlour- window. It thrives better in 
warmer and drier soil than the former species. Some 
botanists make it a separate species, and call it Bulbo- 
c odium vernum. Is found wild amongst the hills of 
Dauphiny and Provence. There is also JB. tigrinum, a 
native of Eussia. 

Polianth narcissuses are annually imported from Hol- 
land, with tulips, hyacinths, and other Dutch bulbs. It 
must be owned that the varieties of narcissus, consisting 
merely of permutations and combinations of two colours 
only, yellow and white, in single and double-centred 
flowers, offer much less diversity than other bulbs of 
similar rank in the seedsman's catalogue. Still they 
have their steady admirers, attracted by their graceful 
habit, the ease with which they are forced, and even by 
their powerful odour, which is sufficiently oppressive to 
exclude them from the private apartments of many who 
would otherwise welcome them. Por room-decoration, 
scentless flowers, as the camellia, are the most advisable 
to employ, as far as sanitary prudence is concerned. The 
rose, the violet, and mignonnette are harmless ; certainly 
in the moderate quantity in which they commonly enter 
into dwelling-apartments ; others, as the heliotrope and 
the lily of the valley, often give headache, and even 
nausea; while many of the liliacea?, notwithstanding 
their beauty, notoriously exhale an insupportable efllu- 



42 



THE PLOTTER GARDEN. 



vium. In the saffron harvest, not only are the women 
who separate the pistil from the petal of the flowers, 
obliged to keep up a strong current of air in the room 
where they are at work, and are often compelled to leave 
their task and recover themselves in the open air from 
the stupifying influence of the odour given out, but even 
the saffron-gatherers in the field (mostly women) are 
attacked now and then by drowsiness followed by fainting- 
fits. Double sashes and glass cases, i.e. miniature close- 
shutting greenhouses, afford the best means of gratifying 
the sense of sight, in the case of strong-scented flowers, 
without offending the sense of smelling. 

Narcissuses may be bloomed, like hyacinths, in glasses ; 
but it is not the object of the present Book to indicate 
the worst mode of growing flowers. In pots they may be 
treated exactly like hyacinths, with a still more liberal 
supply of water, and in even lighter compost. It requires 
one kind of soil (rich and substantial) to bring the bulbs 
to their full strength, and another (more poor and sandy 
in its nature) to produce the utmost perfection of bloom. 
This explains why imported roots flower better than those 
in ordinary garden borders ; demonstrating that even in 
floriculture, a division of labour has its advantages. To 
narcissuses, as to other bulbs, the rule may be applied : 
" Take care of the leaves, and the flowers will take care 
of themselves." To return again to the instance of saf- 
fron : when the flowers are all gathered, and the field is 
green in winter with the rank long leaves, its proprietor 
is carefully anxious to fence out hares and rabbits (which 
are fond of the plant), and to prevent them from feeding 
on the foliage, which is of no use to its owner, because 
experience has told him that if that is injured, his next 
year's saffron will be proportionately defective. 

Snowdrop — Galantines nivalis. — Although so common 
and easily-grown a flower, a garden without snowdrops 
would be sadly incomplete. There are single and double 
snowdrops ; the former is, to many eyes, the more grace- 
ful ; it has also the merit of being somewhat earlier and 
of best deserving its Trench name, Perceneige, or Pierce- 



BULBOUS FLOWEES. 



43 



snow. Foets have made it the subject of their rhymes, 
sometimes with the license allowed to them; as when the 
Goddess of Spring, in some propitious hour, has changed 
an icicle into a flower : — 

" Its name and hue the scentless plant retains, 
And winter lingers in its icy veins." 

But the snowdrop has an agreeable though faint per- 
fume. Snowdrops may remain for years in the ground 
without being taken up, though it will be better to do 
so from time to time with border patches, to prevent 
their growing uncouth and ragged. They thrive well in 
somewhat moist and shady situations, such as under a 
clump of oaks on a lawn ; there, of course, single flowers 
only are appropriate, double flowers being out of place 
beyond the limits of the parterre. Single snowdrops are 
not shy in bearing seed, though they are seldom propa- 
gated in that way, except by the hand of nature. Both 
kinds increase by offsets. Plant in August or September, 
at the depth of two or three inches. 

Snowflake — Leucojum cestivum — Has flowers very 
similar to the former in general appearance, but are pro- 
duced, several on one flower-stem, which is taller, and 
with a greater proportion of foliage. Quite hardy, only 
requires lifting every three or four years : but besides its 
more rampant growth, is of much less value than its 
cousin the Snowdrop, from blooming in summer, when 
we have so many more attractive candidates for our 
favour. 

Squill — Scilla. — A pretty genus, with what gardeners 
call very " neat " flowers, whose tint is mostly a pleasing, 
and in some a brilliant blue. The least prepossessing spe- 
cies, S. rnaritima, the Maritime Squill, makes up for its 
modest spike of dull-looking flowers by its medicinal 
virtues. Its large exposed bulbs grow abundantly on 
the rocks, in many parts of the Mediterranean coast. If 
cultivated here as a curiosity, it must have the protec- 
tion of a green-house in -winter, and the bulb must be 
planted not more than one-third or one-fourth of its 



44 



THE FLOWEB GAKDEK. 



depth, in a large pot of light loam. S. Peruviana, the 
Peruvian Squill, is not a native of that country ; but was 
taken to the New World by the Portuguese, and brought 
back to Europe in the seventeenth century, after be- 
coming naturalized on the coast of Chili and Peru. Bulb 
large, flowers blue (there is a white variety), best kept 
in a pot, in light soil, under a cold frame. S. amcena, 
S. Italica, and <S. campanulata all bear flowers of various 
shades of blue, may be left in the ground several years, 
and do best in a light, dry, warm soil, with a certain 
amount of shade. The Two-leaved Squill, S. bifolia, the 
Siberian or early Squill, S. Sibirica, or proecox, and S. 
umbellata, merit pot-culture, although they are perfectly 
hardy, that they may take their place amidst forced jonquils 
or hyacinths. The Siberian Squill, especially, is one of the 
prettiest emblems of spring which we have, joined to 
which, its dwarf and graceful stature renders it worthy of 
all admiration. The "Wild Hyacinth of our woods is by 
most botanists enrolled with Squills, as S. nutans, Nod- 
ding Squill, though it was formerly classed as Hi/acintlius 
non seriptus (also as Agraphis nutans), in allusion to a 
mythological fable which can have no place here ; nor 
can the plant itself claim admission into gardens. 

Star of Bethlehem — Ornithogalum. — A genus very 
closely allied to the former. 0. umbellatum is one of the 
commonest. The French call it the Eleven-o'clock 
Lady, because it opens its cluster of bright white flowers 
an hour before noon, when the sun shines brightly, 
shutting them again at three. The corolla only expands 
under the strong stimulus of light. It is also supposed 
to be one of the plants mentioned in Scripture. O. pyra- 
midale, styled by the Erench the Tirgin's Spike, display? 
its handsome white blossoms at the end of June. O. 
fimbriatum, Eringed Star of Bethlehem, has white 
flowers striped with green. These are all of easy cul- 
ture, and, indeed, scarcely deserve any great pains to be 
taken about them, beyond lifting and separation every 
second or third year. There are Cape Stars of Bethle- 
hem, which are not safe unless treated as Ixias. 



BULBOUS FLOWEBS. 



45 



Tiger Flower — Tigridia pavonia, — derives its principal 
charm from the ephemeral duration of its singularly- 
shaped and coloured blossoms, which expand and fade 
within a few hours. It is consequently not well adapted 
either for bedding or for pots, although each strong bulb 
will produce several blooms crowning the tuft of bright 
sword-shaped leaves. It is most effective in patches in 
a bed or border near the living-room windows, where its 
gaudy petals will be sure to catch the eye, and where it 
will escape the inglorious fate of the many flowers that 
are only born to blush unseen, and waste their bright- 
ness on the desert air. Though a native of Mexico, it 
may be left in the ground all the year round when and 
ichere a mild winter and a dry soil can be insured. But 
it is safest taken up in autumn, when the leaves are quite 
withered. Propagate by seeds and offsets. 

Tuberose — Polianthes tulerosa. — An old favourite 
allowed to grow obsolete, because it gives a little trou- 
ble and costs a trifle of expense. It is true, also, that it 
belongs more to the conservatory than the flower-garden; 
still, a word or two shall be written to help its restora- 
tion to public favour, for it is now so utterly neglected 
that many useful plain gardeners have never seen such a 
thing as a tuberose. The bulbs are annually imported 
from Italy; it is of little use trying to do anything 
with them here after they have once flowered, unless as 
a test of horticultural skill. Plant them in large heavy 
pots in light, rich loam, in March, and plunge them in a 
hotbed. When the central bud has started a few 
inches, remove them either to a warm light place in the 
greenhouse, or to a very sunny frame. In July, such 
plants as are not retained indoors, may be plunged in 
their pots, to flower in the open air, either in clumps, or 
along a border. They form an elegant avenue, alter- 
nated with the Pyramidal Campanula. As the flower- 
stems rise to from four to six feet in height, they must 
be supported by light straight stakes of equal length ; 
and it is this peculiarity which gives the flower its archi- 
tectural character, and usefulness in decoration. It is 



46 



THE ELOWEE GrAEDE^N". 



very' generally employed on the altars in Italian 
churches, where the perfume exhaled by its pure white 
flowers is said to have the same effect as mignonnette- 
boxes in London ; namely, the keeping of evil smells and 
infections at bay. Double tuberoses will be preferred as 
handsomer, if not more odoriferous, than single ones. 
"While the flower-stem is rising, the plant is greedy of 
heat and water ; admit air also at every available oppor- 
tunity. 

Tulip. — There are several species of Tulip, all of 
which produce elegant flowers. The "Wild Tulip, Tulipa 
sylvestris, bears bright yellow flowers in April or May. 
There is a very showy double variety, which, though not 
esteemed by florists, is very effective as a border flower. 
T. suaveolens, the sweet-scented or Van Thol Tulip, is 
an extremely pretty dwarf plant, with bright-red petals 
edged with yellow, flowering in April, and valuable for 
forcing, in association with other spring bulbs. It may 
be left all winter in the open ground. Parrot tulips, 
also early, remarkably showy, and well adapted for pot- 
culture, are supposed varieties of T. sylvestris. The 
tulip about which the Dutch once went mad, the Flo- 
rists' Tulip, which still retains its admiring fanciers, is 
I. Gesneriana, or G-esner's Tulip. 

On the Elorists' Tulip a treatise might be written 
which should far exceed the entire limits of the present 
Book. It is a special, and somewhat thorny as well as 
complicated branch of the grand floricultural tree. Nor 
are all growers agreed as to classification and manage- 
ment. To convey to the uninitiated some idea of the rules 
of art, it is worth while transcribing from u Grlenny's 
Properties of Plowers," the twelve points which he has 
laid down as indispensable for the Tulip : — " 1. The cup 
should form, when quite expanded, from half to a third 
of a hollow ball. To do this, the petals must be six in 
number ; broad at the ends, smooth at the edges, and the 
divisions between the petals scarcely to show an inden- 
ture. 2. The three inner petals should set close to the 
three outer ones, and the whole should be broad enough 



BULBOUS ITOWEES. 



47 



to allow of the fullest expansion without quartering (as 
it is called), that is, exhibiting any vacancy between the 
petals. 3. The petals should be thick, smooth, and stiff, 
and keep their form well. 4. The ground should be 
clear and distinct, whether white or yellow. The least 
stain, even at the lower end of the petal, would render 
a tulip comparatively valueless. 5. Roses, by bio in ens, 
and bizarres, are the three classes into which tulips are 
now divided. The first have a white ground, and crimson, 
or pink, or scarlet marks ; the second have white grounds, 
and purple, lilac, or black marks ; and the last have 
yellow grounds, with any coloured marks. 6. Whatever 
be the disposition of colours or marks upon a tulip, all 
the six petals should be marked alike, and be therefore 
perfectly uiiiform. 7. The feathered flowers should have 
an even close feathering all round, and whether narrow 
or wide, light or heavy, should reach far enough round 
the petals to form, when they are expanded, an unbroken 
edging all round. 8. If the flower have any marking 
besides the feathering at the edge, it should be a beam, 
or bold mark down the centre, but not to reach the 
bottom, or near the bottom of the cup ; the mark or 
beam must be similar in all the six petals. 9. Elowers 
not feathered, and with flame only, must have no marks 
on the edges of the flower. Xone of the colour must 
break through to the edge. The colour may be disposed 
in any form, so that it be perfectly uniform in all the 
petals, and does not go too near the bottom. 10. The 
colour, whatever it be, must be dense and decided. 
Whether it be delicate and light, or bright, or dark, it 
must be distinct in its outline, and not shaded, or flushed, 
or broken. 11. The height should be eighteen to thirty- 
six inches ; the former is right for the outside row in a 
bed, and the latter is right for the highest row. 12. 
The purity of the white, and the brightness of the yellow, 
should be permanent, that is to say, should stand until 
the petals actually fall.-" Exhibiting gardeners and 
fanciers will do wefl to consult the same authority for the 
"properties" of other Florists' Elowers. 



48 



THE ELOWEE GAEDEN. 



Tulip-beds are made much in the same way, and com- 
posed of nearly the same materials, as those for hyacinths. 
A trench four feet wide, or thereabouts, is dug out ; a 
few inches' depth of shingle is laid at the bottom, to 
insure drainage, if the subsoil is clayey, and the rest is 
filled w T ith a compost of fresh loam, leaf-mould, river 
sand, and the well-rotted dung of ruminant animals, 
when such is to be procured, all thoroughly and previously 
incorporated together. Much mystery has been made 
about special and incomparable receipts for the ingre- 
dients, and their proportion, in a tulip-bed ; but it may 
be suspected that these important formulae contain a 
certain amount of quackery. The soil of a tulip-bed 
should be renewed every year ; it will still serve for the 
culture of other flowers. The bed should be raised an 
inch or two above the level of the ground, and slightly 
raised in the middle. The beginning of October is a 
good time to plant. Draw parallel lines, with a cord, 
six inches apart, along the bed, and cross them with lines 
at right angles, also six inches apart. At the points 
where these cross, the bulbs can be gently pressed into 
the soil just deep enough to keep them standing upright. 
Some amateurs previously arrange the order in which the 
tulips are to be placed, so that they correspond in the 
bed either with a numbered plan, or with the compart- 
ments in the store-boxes. When the bed is thus covered 
with bulbs, and it is seen that all is right, lay additional 
soil over them mth the hands, till they are covered to the 
depth of from four to five inches. The earth must be 
kept up at the edges of the bed either with thick turfs 
laid edgewise, with the grass outside, or with a border of 
stone or earthenware. The former, clipped close, makes a 
pleasing frame to the bed ; the latter are less liable to 
harbour slugs, snails, and worms. It is better thus to 
heap earth over the bulbs, than to plant them with the 
trowel or dibble ; because the soil, remaining free from all 
compression, is more readily penetrated by the root-fibres. 
During frosts and heavy rains, the beds should be covered 
by canvass or matting sustained by hoops. As the leaves 



BULBOUS FLOWERS. 



49 



and flower-buds begin to peep above-ground, this precau- 
tion becomes the more necessary, as the future bloom 
might be seriously injured, or even destroyed, by exposure 
to an inclement spring. Valuable collections, during 
their flowering, are mostly sheltered by an awning ; after- 
wards, the sun and air are allowed to exert their full in- 
fluence. The immature capsules are broken off, to pre- 
vent exhaustion of the bulb, unless it be desired to ripen 
seed. When the leaves are completely withered, the 
bulbs are carefully taken up : it is dangerous to expose 
them to burning sunshine. At the same time they must 
be thoroughly dried, before final storing in some airy place, 
in their box-compartments, where also they can be safe 
from mice. Offsets will mostly come away better at a 
later period. 

These offsets eventually become bulbs that produce 
flowers identical with those of their parent. Tulips 
raised from seed bloom in their fourth or fifth summer ; 
and if the seed has been well selected, there is a chance 
of obtaining from out a large number, a few good and 
novel varieties. Their tints will be at first confused ; 
but in succeeding seasons, they will gradually break, and 
become clear and distinct. This transitional state of the 
tulip (during which it is called a " Baguette ") lasts from 
two to fifteen years. 

When the capsules of tulips allowed to bear seed 
begin to open at the top, they are cut off, and kept till 
September or October. Sow them on a bed, or a large 
earthen pan, of light rich soil, and cover them lightly 
with leaf-mould half an inch thick. The first year, they 
will put forth a single leaf. When this is withered, the 
surface of the mould may be renewed. The second sum- 
mer, they may be taken up, to be replanted immediately 
in tulip compost. The third year they may be treated 
like offsets. All this while they must be carefully 
weeded, and protected from the inclemency of the sea- 
sons. If a seedling is a year behindhand in showing 
bloom, it promises all the better for that circumstance. 
In other cases, a tulip of the highest merit will put forth 

E 



50 



THE FLO WEE GAEDE"N". 



a worthless scarcely-recognisable bloom. The most usual 
causes of this phenomenon are, changes of climate, cul- 
ture, or, above all, of soil, or even the accident of a cold 
and wet spring. The next year's bloom will often appear 
adorned with all its pristine beauty. Meanwhile, if it 
balks your expectations, do not be discouraged ; the fit 
will pass, and all will be right again. 

On cool reflection, and admitting all the floral preten- 
sions of tulips, it must be granted that they have attained 
a higher rank in the world of flowers than their intrinsic 
beauty entitles them to claim, especially since the intro- 
duction of numerous rivals from foreign lands. The 
varieties of tulip (the choicest of which do not exceed 
eight hundred in number) present much less striking 
distinctions, both in colour and form, than those of many 
other flowers, — for instance, of the hyacinth and the rose. 
Certain varieties of florists' tulips are sweetly scented, — 
a pleasing peculiarity, which deserves a greater measure 
of favour than has hitherto been accorded to it. 

ZepliyrantJies Candida. — A small bulb, producing in 
October a single flower, whose three interior lobes are 
pure white, and the three exterior tinged with pink at 
their tips. In a warm dry soil may remain out of doors 
all the year round, only requiring to be taken up every 
third or fourth year. Z. Atamasco is still handsomer 
and equally hardy. Z. rosea is best cultivated in a 
frame, in pots. 

TTTBEEOTJS A1ST) EHIZOMATOTTS FLOWEES. 

A tuber is a solid root, like those of the potato and 
the dahlia. In some respects it is analogous to a bulb, 
as having alternate periods of growth and rest, during 
which latter it will exist independently of the soil, and 
may be transported to long distances. It also contains 
the nutriment of the future plant, as well as the germ 
itself, which, however, is in a much more embryotic state 
than in bulbs. A perfect bulb contains but a single lead- 
ing germ ; a tuber has mostly several. A tuber is less 



TUBEROUS A>~D BHIZOAIAIOUS FLOWEES. 



51 



symmetrical than a bulb, and, unlike it, may generally 
be divided into portions during its period of rest, each of 
which portions will grow and form an independent plant, 
provided that it contains an eye or germ. In tubers, the 
eyes are either dispersed irregularly, but tolerably equally, 
over the whole surface, as in the potato (where they are 
more crowded near the nose) and the anemone, or clus- 
tered near each other, more or less numerously, about 
the crown or neck of the plant, as in the florists' ranun- 
culus, the dahlia, and the cyclamen. 

Rhizoma is the botanical name for the underground 
stem of many plants, which subterranean stem so far 
resembles a tuber as it often is a reservoir of the plant's 
nutriment, to the extent of serving as an article of food 
for man and beast, — and as it is furnished with dormant 
eyes, has a tendency to put forth roots, and has a period 
of rest, during which it is passively subject to the require- 
ments of the human will, according to its greater or less 
power of endurance and torpidity. The transition from 
tuberous to rhizomatous, and thence to herbaceous plants 
is so gradual, that the line of demarcation is not very 
easy to fix in a work like this ; nor indeed is such a classi- 
fication professed to be adhered to more strictly than will 
serve for popular convenience. The tuberous and rhizo- 
matous flowers in most general cultivation will now be 
noticed in alphabetical order. It is hoped that no very 
severe fault will be found if the next section is made to 
comprise plants which might have taken their places here, 
or if some that are found here might with equal pro- 
priety have appeared in the following chapter. 

Aconite (Winter) — Mrtmthus (spring flower) h/emalic 
(wintry). — Linnaeus named it Hejlelorus hyemalis. A 
charming little plant, which has perhaps the greatest 
right of any to claim the merit of being our very first 
spring flower. Hence, it is commonly known as " The 
IJew Year's Gift," but is less familiar to the inhabitants 
of towns than to country residents. It thrives best in a 
somewhat damp and shady situation, and does not like to 
be disturbed too often ; consequently it does better under 

e 2 



52 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



trees and shrubs, or in a neglected corner screened by 
walls, than in the open parterre. It increases fairly, 
both by root and seed, remaining dormant about eight 
months of the year. In removing, take up a large patch, 
to make sure of having a sufficiency of the creeping 
fleshy root to furnish good eyes. Under pot-culture, it 
must have large shallow pans ; common flowerpots cramp 
it too much. A mignonnette-box all to itself answers 
very well. In any case, it must remain where it is during 
both growth and rest, with a renewal of the surface soil 
every other year. Like the true hellebores, its bright 
yellow flowers exhale an odour which many persons find 
oppressive and disagreeable. For other Aconites, see 
Monkshood, 

Anemone, i.e. Windfloiver. — Of the Florists' Anemone, 
A. coronaria, the very numerous varieties may be sepa- 
rated into two classes, the single and the double. The 
former are multiplied both by seed and by division of the 
root ; the latter by division of the root only. As with 
hyacinths, double anemones should be grown on different 
beds from the single ones, since they bloom at a later 
period; the character of the flowers, moreover, does not 
harmonize well together. Semi-double flowers, or those 
with more than the normal number of petals, sometimes 
called Kilkenny anemones, take rank with single ones ; 
they are also capable of bearing seed. In double ane- 
mones, the stamens and pistils, the organs of reproduc- 
tion, are changed into a thick rosette of small petals. 
Single anemones are in esteem amongst gardeners, 
although double roots fetch a higher price. The colours 
of anemones are red, blue, and white, or very pale straw- 
colour, and their intermediate shades. The plant is par- 
ticularly valuable from its flowering late in autumn and 
throughout mild winters, more or less, to burst into 
brilliant bloom in early spring. 

Anemone roots may always be had of respectable seeds- 
men. Plant them as soon as possible after they are taken 
up in summer. But to make a bed of single anemones, 
the best plan is to sow seed, which many people make a 



TUBEROUS AND RHIZOMATOUS PLOTTERS. 53 



point of saving only from flowers of the richest blue and 
red tints. The precaution can do no harm ; but it is 
questionable whether it has any effect if the seed be 
gathered from off a large bed ; for the produce therefrom 
is completely hybridized by the agency of the wind and 
of bees. Over-year's seed will succeed very well ; still it 
is better to take that of the current season, sowing as 
soon as it is ripe, in May or J une. 

Mark out your bed on a spot of good friable hazel 
loam, which is in good heart or has been well manured 
the previous year. Bank fresh manure must be avoided. 
Break it up well to the depth of two feet at least; 
thoroughly pulverize the top spit ; remove all pebbles and 
roots of weeds ; rake the surface perfectly level. The 
breadth of the bed should not exceed what is convenient 
for reaching to the middle for weeding and gathering. 

Anemone seed is light and woolly, hanging together in 
knots like carrot seed. To avoid this inconvenience, mix 
it up with a considerable proportion of moist sand, rub- 
bing it well between the hands. Sow broadcast as evenly 
as possible, and not too thick if the seed be new. Cover 
with a thin stratum of lighter loam and leaf-mould dusted 
over the bed with a sieve. The seed is somewhat slow to 
germinate, and weeds will make their appearance first. 
These must be drawn out, as soon as they are big enough 
to be laid hold of by the finger and thumb. Very gentle 
waterings must be given, if the drought is severe and the 
sun scorching. As the little green twin-cotyledons of the 
anemones show themselves, the same attention to weed- 
ing and watering must be repeated, to be continued 
during the summer. In October, a few flowers will 
appear ; next spring, there will be a respectable show ; 
and the following season, the bed will be bright with 
divers colours. The best flowers are not the first to 
come into bloom. From every fresh-sown bed, one or 
more double roots may be expected ; but these will often 
not manifest their presence till the second or the third 
year after sowing. Fresh seed is more likely to produce 
double and richly-tinted flowers than old seed; because 



54 



THE PLOTTER GARDEN. 



the embryos from which they are produced, are of com- 
paratively feebler vitality. In a lot of old seed, the 
germs of the finest flowers are mostly dead ; those which 
do come up being only the robuster and coarser indi- 
viduals. 

It is better not to disturb an anemone-bed too often. 
At the end of four or five years, when the roots have 
become crowded and the soil requires a partial renewal, 
they may be taken up as soon as the foliage is qmte 
withered, to be replanted in a fresh spot as early as con- 
venient. Anemone roots are dormant for a much shorter 
period than most other tubers ; consequently, no time must- 
be lost. A fortnight's, or even a week's delay, especially in 
the time of taking up, may seriously impair the next 
season's bloom. At the time of lifting the roots, remove 
an inch or so of the surface soil, give the bed a not too 
rough raking, and throw over it a coating of fresh well- 
pulverized loam, equal to that abstracted. If the weather 
be dry, water with very diluted liquid manure ; wait for a 
few weeks patiently, and you will find your old anemone- 
bed covered with plants springing from the fragments of 
tubers left in the ground, which will bloom vigorously in 
due season. In short, you will have two beds for one. 
Double anemones require the same soil and treatment. 
Do not wait till September or October, but plant your 
roots as soon as you can get your collection together. 
Remember, anemones do not like to remain long above- 
ground. It is not usual to name the choice varieties 
that are raised, either of single or double anemones. In 
fact, they would make a list long enough to reach from 
London to York, extensible, at the florist's will, to John 
o' Groat's house and the Orkney Isles. 

The Japan Anemone, A. Jajponica, is an elegant and 
useful acquisition recently introduced from Japan. It 
is perfectly hard}', thrives in any good light soil that is 
not too dry, producing an abundance of its pinky- 
purple flowers throughout the autumn. It rarely ripens 
seed, but may be readily propagated by division of 
the root, a very small portion of which will grow. Is 



TUBEROUS AXD EHIZO^IATOUS FLOWERS. 



55 



most effective in large patches or small beds. The 
Elegant Anemone, A. elegans, also from Japan, is more 
robust than the preceding, and hardy. The Apennine 
(with blue flowers), the ]S"arcissus-flowered (white and 
yellow), and the Wood (white) Anemones, A. Apennina, 
narcissijlora, and nemoralis, are pleasing ornaments to 
the shrubbery and pleasure-ground. A. puis at ilia, violet- 
blue, flowering in May in dry flinty ground, deserves both 
mention and cultivation. 

Arum. — The Snake-root, A. dracunculus, or Dragon 
Arum, is often found in old flower-gardens, and deserves 
a place in modern ones. Its handsome speckled stem, 
like a serpent's skin, bears, when in vigour, a remarkable, 
large, dark-purple flower, which however is unsuited for 
admission into the interior of the mansion on account of 
its powerful carrion-like smell. Still, the Snake-root in 
bloom is an object not to be passed without notice. Any 
deep rather moist garden soil suits it, but it must not 
be disturbed for division of the root or transplantation. 
After those operations, it refuses to flower for a year or 
two, till it has recovered its strength. The old herbal- 
ists attribute wonderful virtues to the Grande Serpen- 
taire, or Serpentine, as they call it. A. crimtum, or 
onuscivorum, the Hairy or Fly-catching Arum, a native of 
Corsica, produces in spring a central spadix surrounded 
by a spathe, which is blotched with green outside, and 
inside is lined with violet silky fibres inclining down- 
wards, and in which are caught and held fast the flies 
attracted by the cadaverous odour exhaled by this extra- 
ordinary inflorescence. It rarely flowers in a pot, and 
requires protection during winter in the open ground. 
The "White-flowered Arum, Calla, or Bicliardia JEtkio- 
pica, makes an elegant decoration to the edge of a pond : 
but it must be treated as a pot-plant during winter. 
Is easily propagated by division of the root, and requires 
to stand in a pan always half-filled with water, except 
during frost. 

Christmas Rose — Black Hellebore, Herbe de Christ 
of old French writers^ Hellebores niger — produces its 



56 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



handsome white blossoms tinged with pink from Decem- 
ber to February, according to the weather. As the 
flowers, when put forth, are apt to be damaged by sleet 
and rain, they well deserve the occasional shelter of a 
hand-light, or even a slanting piece of plank. The 
foot of an east wall is a good situation, to avoid the 
drenching south-west storms that pelt from time to 
time in mild winters. Soil, a light fresh loam. Pro- 
pagate by root-division, not too frequently. Seeds, 
sown as soon as ripe, will produce slight varieties, more 
or less tinged with pink, which will blossom in their 
third year. 

Cyclamen. — A charming genus of humble, pretty, 
sweet-scented spring flowers, whose ugly French and 
English names, Pain de Pourceau and Sowbread, ought 
to have been replaced by some more pleasing appellation, 
even though the tubers may be rooted up by swme in 
the woods of Italy and Switzerland. Although the 
European species, Cyclamen JSuropceum y Coum, repan- 
dum, and hedercefolium, may and will pass the winter in 
a dry open border, with some slight protection of litter 
or matting overhead, they are safest in pots in a cold 
frame. The broad-leaved Cyclamen, C. viacropliyllum, 
a native of Algeria, unlike the others, flowers in the 
autumn. The most elegant of all, the Persian Cycla- 
men, C JPersicum, must be grown in a pot, with the 
tuber partially above-ground, in which, if large enough, it 
may remain for several years, with an occasional renewal 
of the upper portion of the soil. Old tubers will thus 
produce large tufts of numerous pink or purple and 
white flowers, so graceful in their shape that Hogarth 
selected them as one of his illustrations of " The Line of 
Beauty." All the Cyclamens are propagated from seeds^ 
which must be sown immediately they are ripe, in shal- 
low pans of light rich earth, and be grown under frames 
with plenty of air and little heat the first few years. 
The tubers, after flowering and maturing their leaves, 
must be kept in a dry and airy place during their period 
of annual rest, i. e. from July to December. 



TUBEROUS A>~D BHIZOMATOUS FLOWEES. 57 



Dahlia — Dahlia variabilis — a floral upstart, the whole 
course of whose rise to fame and fortune is within the 
memory of many persons now living. The original 
single-flowered plant, from Mexico, first claimed the 
attention of horticulturists as an edible root, whose 
repulsive, nauseous, peppery taste inspires equal disgust 
to man and beast. Then, single dahlias were thought 
line things, and various gay colours were obtained from 
seedlings. Then came the phenomena of double dahlias, 
which were taken into favour by enterprising florists, 
and improved, and improved, till they became what we 
see them now. The dahlia is essentially a made flower ; 
its cultivators proposed to themselves a certain model, 
as to form and furnishing of petals, which they deter- 
mined to perfect ; and by skill in hybridizing, by outlay 
in sowing enormous numbers of seeds, and, above all, 
by patient perseverance, they have perfected it. One 
great point, however, they have not attained, — the pro- 
duction either of a blue, or of an agreeably-scented 
flower. !Xo attempt will here be made to name any of 
the choice varieties of Dahlia which, at the moment of 
this present writing, may chance to be the favourites of 
the day. The existence of this little Book may be more 
durable than most of theirs ; and it would be of little 
service to print a list that would soon become obsolete 
by the intrusion of fresh candidates for the public ap- 
plause. Inquiring readers had best consult the current 
numbers of the Gardener's Chronicle, in whose adver- 
tisements and answers to Correspondents they will be 
sure to find all they are in search of. Perhaps, though 
not probably, a blue perfumed Dahlia will start from the 
earth ; in which case, those which now figure in the par- 
terre will have to hide their diminished heads, for a time 
at least. Many old esteemed varieties have completely 
disappeared; while the mercantile horticulturists, both 
of Great Britain and the Continent, annually inundate 
the market with a copious flood of novelties, many of 
which are inferior to their predecessors. The wisest- 
course for the inexperienced amateur is to leave the 



5S 



THE FLOWEB GARDEN. 



selection of his Dahlias to the respectable nurseryman of 
whom he orders them. 

The Dahlia thrives best in a good rich hazel loam. Both 
the leaves, stem, and roots are killed by frost ; the latter, 
consequently, must be kept in a place of safety during 
winter. The stem is fragile, and apt to be blown down 
or snapped short by high winds ; it is therefore best 
supported by a stake inserted into the ground at the rime 
of planting the root or cutting. The ycuug shoots, in 
their early growth, are apt to be eaten off by slugs and 
snails, which must be driven off or destroyed by circles 
of lime and ashes, or by waterings with lime-water. 
The blossoms are apt to be bitten and spoiled by hungry 
earwigs, to obviate whose onslaughts traps of hollow 
bean-stalks, to be inspected once or twice a day. are 
hung at enticing intervals amidst the foliage : or circular 
earthen pans, to be filled with water, are placed at the 
foot of each plant in the early stage of its growth, so as to 
keep the enemy at bay by a miniature kind of encircling 
ditch. Choice blooms for exhibition are shaded and 
protected in various ways. 

Xew varieties of Dahlias are obtained from seed ; the 
varieties themselves are propagated — first, by division of 
the tuber at the crown, in which case it must be seen 
that each portion is furnished with an eye ; and. secondly, 
by cuttings, which will strike root, and form tubers ct 
their own by the end of summer. If a Dahlia tuber be 
planted entire in spring, it will mostly send up several 
stems. It is usual to leave only one of these, as pro- 
ducing a handsomer and more symmetrical plant. 

In forming a collection of Dahlias, the general mode is 
to order the number required of a nurseryman, in good 

te during the winter, if the newest new novelties are a 
matter of importance. They will arrive some time in 
spring, in the shape of rooted cuttings two or three 
inches high, in small pots, and must be kept in a green- 
house or in a frame, till the end of May, or such time as 
all danger of frost is over in that locality. They may 
then be planted out in rows, beds, quincunxes, or 



TUBEEOUS A^D EHIZOMATOTJS IXOWEBS. 59 

avenues, taking care to plant them at the distance de- 
manded by their lofty stature and vigorous growth. The 
further cares are — watering ; protection from vermin ; 
tying the stem, as it rises, to the supporting stake ; and 
the cutting out of unnecessary and irregular shoots. 

In the climate of England, Dahlias are unable to com- 
plete the entire circle of their vegetation. In October 
they are in full force, and the slightest frost destroys 
them then. In order to prolong the duration of their 
blooming, they are sometimes planted in large pots, 
which are plunged in the border during summer, but are 
lifted and removed to a greenhouse or conservatory as 
autumn advances. The forward buds are thus enabled to 
expand in safety. But plants so treated display only a 
short-lived beauty ; to flower well, Dahlias must have the 
open air. The tubers ought to be left in the ground 
some time after the autumnal frosts have destroyed the 
foliage ; they still find nourishment there, complete their 
ripening, and are consequently less difficult to keep. 
About the middle of November is the usual time for 
taking them up, an operation which ought to be carefully 
performed, avoiding wounding the roots, and choosing if 
possible a bright calm day. They may be left a few 
hours to dry in the open air, to be thence removed to 
any place secure from frost, where neither the excess of 
dryness or moisture is to be feared. They will pass the 
winter exceedingly well, covered with sand on the floor 
of a dry and wholesome cellar. 

At the end of March, as the time for planting out 
approaches, remove the tubers from their winter quar- 
ters into a hothouse, or lay them side by side, close to 
each other, on a gentle hotbed under a frame. Those 
?;hose crown is still surviving, will soon begin to vege- 
tate ; the rest may be thrown away as worthless. Some 
persons plant the tubers entire ; but the practice is bad. 
On the contrary, they should be divided as much as 
possible, bearing in mind the indispensable precaution to 
leave at least one starting eye on every portion. If the 
season is so far advanced that all fear of frost is over, 



60 



THE FLOWEK GARDEN. 



they may be planted out at once in their permanent 
sites ; if not, in pots filled with good mould, which must 
be kept on a hotbed under glass, admitting plenty of air, 
till the first week in June. The first blooms are mostly 
imperfect ; and Dahlias are scarcely in their full beauty 
till the great heats and droughts of summer are over ; 
that is, at the end of August and in September. It is 
as well to cut off all imperfect and faded blooms, that the 
sap may be directed to the buds that are successively 
coming forward. There is no need, here, to do more 
than allude to the grafting of choice Dahlia-shoots on 
the tubers of inferior varieties. 

The Dahlia derives its principal value from its filling 
the void left by the disappearance of summer flowers, as 
well as from displaying its finest blooms at the season 
when our aristocracy return from town to their country 
seats. It is a gaudy, flaunting, showy plant, which has 
the great merit of usefulness in its way ; but it is far 
from possessing all that can be wished for in a flower, 
and no doubt many of its early worshippers will now 
confess that they prostrated themselves too blindly before 
their idol. But every one has, and ought to have, his 
taste. ¥e have no right to blame, though we may not 
sympathize with, the amateur who prefers a Dahlia to a 
Bose. 

A smaller species, D. cosmceflora, which has not yet 
started off into varieties, is of dwarfer habit, and pro- 
duces flowers with a purple disk and lilac rays. 

Hemerocallis flava. — Day Lily ; a plant with yellow 
or tawny flowers, which was not mentioned at the same 
time with the other Lilies, simply because its root is not 
bulbous. It is a coarse plant, quite hardy, fitter for the 
shrubbery than the choice parterre, producing a tuft of 
long narrow leaves, and easily propagated by root-division. 
This Day Lily produces a fair succession of ephemeral 
flowers. Other Day Lilies have been made into a sepa- 
rate genus, FunJcia, more remarkable perhaps for their 
leaves than their flowers. JF. subcordata has heart-shape- 
leaves, of a bright green, with longitudinal folds or plaits, 



TUBEROUS AND RHIZOMATOUS FLOWERS. 61 



and bears, towards the end of summer, a spike of white 
sweet-scented flowers. F. Ccendea, has smaller, some- 
what earlier, violet-blue flowers, and oval heart-shaped 
leaves, of a darker green, and with more strongly-marked 
longitudinal veins. Both species like a warm dry soil, 
and flower well in pots on a sunny shelf of the green- 
house, though they will live out in the open ground. 
They are made for a longer summer than 'our own. 

Iris. — Several of the tuberous-rooted Irises are decided 
and deserving favourites. The most striking is the 
Chalcedonian Iris, I. Susiana, or "Widow Iris, whose 
large flowers are marbled or veined with a dull greyish 
purple-brown, which suggests the idea of the hues of 
mourning. Must have a warm, dry, deep soil, and does 
not like disturbance. Will be sure to rot off with too 
much moisture. The most common Iris is the German, 
I. Germanica, useful for its hardihood and thrift in con- 
fined situations ; will grow even on roofs or the tops of 
walls. Its blue flowers appear in May and June. There 
are paler and also white varieties. The Grassy Iris, 
I. grcnninea, the Silky Iris, I. setosa, and the Siberian 
Iris, I. Sibirica, do well in ordinary garden-ground. The 
Dwarf Iris, I. pitmila, makes a neat edging of short stiff 
leaves, above which numerous blue flowers appear in 
spring. There are white, purple, and russet-tinted 
varieties. The kind with yellow flowers veined with 
brown, J. lutescens, is a little taller, and flowers some- 
rimes from the month of October. The Hungarian Iris, 
I. Sungarica, is also used for edging. It is also a little 
taller than the preceding, and displays its numerous 
violet-blue flowers a little later. More than fifty species 
of Iris are known to botanists. 

Ladies' Slipper — Cupripedium. — An elegant genus, 
whose species are natives of the mountains of Europe, 
India, and Jforth America. Their culture is difficult, 
and their propagation still more so. They must be 
treated like the terrestrial Orchidaceae, i. e. like those 
members of that large family which have their roots in 
the ground instead of hanging to the branches of trees. 



62 



THE ELOWER G-AEDE^. 



(See Orchis?) This peculiar branch of floriculture is mostly 
pursued by persons who make it their especial study, 
and whose practical experience is aided by treatises, 
monographs, &c. C. calceolus. from the Alps ; C. gidta- 
tum, from the cold regions of Canada, and also from the 
forests of Siberia ; C. puoescens, from Carolina ; C. spec- 
tcibile, also from North America, may be grown in heath- 
mould, in the open ground, in a shady yet airy situation. 
In winter they must have protection analogous to that- 
afforded by a thick covering of snow. The great beauty 
and singularity of the blossoms of the CypripeJ. 
render them well worth the attention of those who are 
not deterred by ordinary difficulties, and who will take 
the trouble to carry out the Theory of Horticulture to 
its practical and effective results. The plants on sale are 
mostly imported, and therefore fetch good prices in the 
horticultural market. L. Yan Houtte, of Ghent, Bel- 
gium, advertises the very scarce and hardy C. macrantlium. 
at two guineas each. 

Marvel of JPeru—jsIirabilis Jalcrpa — Belle de Nuit, or 
Beauty of the Night, of the Trench. — This striking plant 
requires a somewhat warmer and drier climate than our 
own, and therefore does best in our hottest summers. It 
then forms a bushy plant from two to three feet high, 
covered with red, yellow, white, striped, or mottled 
flowers, which open when the heat of the day is over, 
and are succeeded by fresh blossoms the following day. 
The Night-scented, or Long-flowered Marvel of Peru. 
M. long if or a, differs from the above, in having a more 
diffuse and brittle habit of growth, with heart-shaped 
viscous leaves. The flowers, whose tube is from four to 
five and a half inches long, are of a dull white, and emit, 
after sunset, a powerful odour, which resembles a combi- 
nation of orange-flowers and heliotrope. The varieties 
of the first species, though differing in colour, are similar 
in their growth and foliage ; and therefore should be 
grown in beds or clumps by themselves alone, without- 
being mixed up with the second species, which may be 
planted singly, in rows, or in small groups of three or 



A 



TUBEEOUS A>~D EHIZOMATOI'S FLOWEES 



63 



four plants. Of the latter, there is a variety with the 
blossoms tinged with dull violet. Marvels of Peru are 
mostly treated as tender annuals, sown under a frame on 
a hotbed in spring, and planted out at the beginning of 
June in a well-sheltered border, where they can bask in 
the reflected* heat from a wall, and luxuriate in light 
rich sound loam. But they really are perennials, form- 
ing tubers, which may be taken up and kept like those 
of Dahlias, to be replanted the following summer. For 
those fond of powerful perfumes indoors, the Xight- 
scented Marvel, grown in a pot, and brought forward by 
bottom heat, would make an agreeable variety to the 
ordinary list of odoriferous flowers. 

Monkshood — Aconitum. — A genus whose expulsion is 
strongly recommended from all gardens, especially where 
there are children and careless servants. The beauty of 
the flowers does not rise above mediocrity, and is very 
far from compensating for the danger of poison to be 
apprehended. The yellow-flowered Monkshood is called 
A. J y cod o nam, and Tue-Loup, which both mean Kill- 
Wolf. The common blue species, A. napellus, or Wolfs- 
bane, has not only poisoned pigs that have swallowed 
fragments of the plant while amusing themselves with 
the garden rubbish that has been thrown down to them, 
but families have been poisoned by eating the scraped root, 
by mistake, for horse-radish. A French lady stepped into 
her garden, to listen for the church-bell to ring for mass. 
Like the ploughman who whistled o'er the lea for want 
of thought, a wandering mood of mind caused her to 
pluck and nibble a bit of the nearest plant, whether 
flower or leaf she could not afterwards remember. At 
mass, she was taken seriously ill ; and, after a horrible 
afternoon and night, got well in the morning. But she 
no longer permits Chapeau de Pretre, or Monkshood, to 
form one of her list of border-flowers. Authentic cases 
might be multiplied.. Therefore, the directions here 
given for the treatment of the Aconites, whether blue or 
yellow, native or foreign, are to stub them up and bum 
them to ashes. 



64 



THE PLOTTER GARDEN. 



Orchis. — Many beautiful and curious species of Orchis, 
and the closely related genus Ophrys. are native plants, 
though now rare. The Bee Ophrys (formerly Orchis), 
the Spider Ophrys, and the Ely Ophrys, whose flowers 
resemble those respective insects, were found on the 
skirts of our woods and pastures. Orchis pyramidalis 
and fusca, are attractive objects in their native forests; 
but the species are very numerous. To cultivate them, 
take them up when in flower, with a large ball of earth 
surrounding the roots, and plant them in exactly the 
same soil, aspect, and conditions as they enjoyed when 
wild, whether in wet peat-mould, or iu dry chalky loam. 
These conditions are not always easy to combine. Many 
species require shade and air at the same time ; others 
are only at home in a marsh or a bog. They may be grown 

in pots, but The tuberous root of most terrestrial 

orehidaceae consists of two lobes, one of which shrivels 
every year, a new one being formed at the side of the 
other lobe. Thus the plant travels slowly, but surely, 
and is therefore not at its ease in a hyacinth-pot, as far as 
shiftiug its ground is concerned. The less fastidious 
species will do tolerably well in a border of heath-mould 
at the foot of a north-east wall, where they are best left 
to themselves year after year. Not easy to propagate ; 
but the seeds may be sown as soon as ripe. 

Oxalis — Wood Sorrel. — An extensive genus, whose 
type is that pretty little native of our woods, the Oxalis 
acetosella, whose sour juices furnish a considerable quan- 
tity of oxalic acid, to which in fact it gives the name. 
This same acid is the basis of a salt that is much employed 
in the arts and in domestic economy ; namely, oxalate of 
potash, or Salts of Sorrel. Certain species have been 
highly vaunted for the amount of nutriment stored in 
their tubers : for which see " The Kitchen Garden. " The 
leaves of the Oxalises are ordinarily composed of three 
leaflets, which are sensitive to light and moisture, like 
those of the Trefoils. The flowers are always neat and 
often brightly coloured, but unfortunately the most beau- 
tiful must be treated as greenhouse plants, in pots, in 



TUBEHOUS AND EHIZOMATOrS FLOWEBS. 



65 



light sandy soil. They comprise tints of pink, red, pur- 
ple, white, and of brilliant canary-yellow, but have need 
of bright sunshine to open well. The handsomest species 
cultivated, O. speciosa, from the Cape, has large reddish- 
purple flowers with a yellow tube, and is tender. 0. 
violacea, Violet Oxalis, from North America, stands our 
winters outdoors, 0. ceniua, or caprina, from the Cape, 
has bright yellow flowers, sometimes double, and is safest 
in pots. 0. rosea, Pink Oxalis, a South American 
annual, is a charming little plant, which on light soils, 
with sparing waterings, makes an edging that remains a 
long while in flower. 0. Deppei may be also employed as 
a pleasing edging in kitchen-gardens. O. floribunda 
deserves notice. 

Pea (Everlasting). — The genus Lathy r us comprises 
several very ornamental and favourite species, some of 
which are perennials with hardy rhizomatous and even 
tuberous roots, whilst others are elegant annuals. Of the 
former, L. tuberosus, Gland de Terre, or Earth- Acorn, with 
bright pink flowers, which appear in June and July, in 
bunches of five or six, was anciently cultivated as an 
esculent plant, and will grow in any garden soil, from 
seeds, or tubers planted in autumn. L. grandiflorus, 
the Large-flowered Everlasting Pea, with handsome rosy 
flowers shaded from dark to light, may be multiplied by 
seeds token such are produced, or cuttings of the root 5 ; 
likes a sunny aspect, and a slight mulching with manure 
in winter. The least-known species, which deserves to 
be more extensively cultivated, is L. Magellanic us, Lord 
Anson's Pea, whose elegant foliage and bright blue 
flowers adapt it for covering a trellis on a wall. Propa- 
gate by root-division, and mulch or cover with litter in 
winter. Tlie Everlasting Pea, which is to be found in 
almost every old-established garden, is L. latifolius, with 
pink flowers (of a rather dull hue, however), which have 
the merit of making their appearance every summer with 
admirable punctuality, and without exacting more than 
the most ordinary care on the part of the gardener. 
There is a white variety less widely diffused, but of 



66 



THE ELOWEB GABDEN. 



equally easy culture, which bears bunches of blossoms of 
remarkable purity. These two varieties combined are 
useful to supply the living drapery of leaves and flowers, 
required to clothe the columns of a verandah, the inter- 
stices of a trellis, or the walls of an arbour. Under 
favourable conditions, they will run up to six or eight 
feet. Propagate by root- division. As a general rule, 
the Everlasting Peas are shy bearers of seed, and like a 
deep, well-drained hazel loam. 

Of the annual species, the common Sweet Pea, L. 
odoratus, in its varieties of pink, white, and purplish blue, 
is everywhere petted, both as a border plant and a pot- 
flower. The seed, which is abundantly produced, has 
only to be sown in small patches on their site, and the 
plants sticked when two or three inches high. To have 
an earlier display, Sweet Peas started in pots, in a frame, 
or in the parlour- window, may be turned out in May with 
their balls of earth entire. There are besides, the Tan- 
gier Pea, L. Tingitanus, with large, dark, purplish-red 
flowers ; and the Abyssinian Pea, L. Ahyssinicus, with 
angular and trailing stems, narrow leaves, and bright 
azure-blue flowers. These need only to be sown in the 
open ground in February or March. 

JBceony. — The genus Pceonia is made up of two very 
distinct divisions ; namely, the herbaceous species, which 
die down to the root every autumn, natives of Great 
Britain, and of the European and Asiatic continents ; 
and the Moutan, or Tree Pseonies, P. Moutan and its 
varieties, natives of China and Japan, whence they were 
brought some sixty years back, where they are highly 
esteemed as ornamental plants, attaining the height of 
ten or eleven feet, with a shrubby stem. The herbaceous 
kinds are all quite hardy, suitable for borders or bedding 
in masses, producing single, semi-double, and double 
flowers, in shades passing from pure white, through pink, 
and bright red, to deep crimson. Although the single 
flowers are more fleeting than the double, as well as less 
magnificent, a few single-flowered plants should be re- 
tained in the garden, not only for the cheerful character 



TTBEROTS ABB EHIZOMATOUS FLOWEES. 67 

of their blooms, but for their singular seed- vessels, which 
open and display the scarlet seeds within, and afford a 
vivid addition to the winter bouquet. All the herbaceous 
Paeonies delight in a deep, sound, alluvial loam, and 
thrive even under the shade of trees, by which the dura- 
tion of their bloom is prolonged. 

The tree Paeonies like the same soil, with an admixture 
of heath-mould or silver-sand ; nor are they nice as to 
aspect and exposure. The great difficulty in flowering 
them well, is that they shoot their leaves and flower-buds 
so early, that they are in great danger of being cut off 
by spring frosts, except in the most favoured situations. 
Various modes of protection in the open garden have 
been devised ; such as temporary coverings of canvass or 
oil-paper, and moveable screens of boards, to be left on 
or taken off, according to weather. Others grow them 
in large pots or boxes, retaining them in the greenhouse 
till the bloom is over. In this case, the soil must be 
renewed every second or third year. The different 
species of Paeony hybridize together, and many beautiful 
varieties have resulted from the circumstance. The 
herbaceous kinds are readily propagated by root-division ; 
the tree Paeonies are more difficult, but still may be mul- 
tiplied by slips of the root, by cuttings detached at their 
insertion on the stem, by layers half cut through behind 
each bud, by grafting on the tubers of the common 
herbaceous Paeony, P. officinalis, or better on the common 
Chinese tree Paeony, P. Sinensis, as this latter does not 
throw up suckers. The plants, once established, may be 
left pretty nearly to themselves, and will require no 
pruning. The nurseryman's list of varieties of Paeony, 
new and old, is too long to be quoted here. Remarkable 
species are, the slender-leaved Paeony, P. tenuifolia, 
from Siberia, of which a double variety, obtained iu 
Russia, has been propagated in Holland. The foliage is 
light and graceful; the flowers very double, perfectly- 
regular, and of the most brilliant crimson. The rose- 
scented Paeony, P. fragrans, from China, has very double 
pinkey-purple flowers, with a decided rose-like perfume, 
- r 2 



6S 



THE ILOWEE GAEDI>~. 



and does well in heath-mould in the open air with the 
protection of a covering of litter in winter. 

Ranunculus. — The florists' Ranunculus is the R. 
Asiatic us ; but the genus is large, and several of the 
species, in their double varieties, are cultivated as border 
flowers. R. Ficaria. Double Pilewort. with gold-lacquered 
flowers, is the earnest and the most dwarf. The tubers may 
be divided every season. R. a-conitifolius. Aconite-leaved 
Crowfoot, produces abundance of double white flowers ; 
the Double Buttercup, or iMeadow Crowfoot. R. acris. is 
equally useful in filling up vacancies. R. gramineus, 
Grass-leaved Ranunculus, which also produces double 
blossoms, is mainly remarkable for its foliage differing 
from the usual type of the genus. R. repens. Creeping 
Crowfoot, has likewise double yellow flowers. The Turban 
Ranunculuses are of more robust stature than the above, 
with larger, semi-double, more globular flowers, varving 
in shades of white, orange, and yellow. All these are 
hardy, of easy culture and propagation in soil like that 
of loamy pasture-land. 

The florists' Ranunculus has for many years past been 
carefully cultivated by the same class of amateurs as 
tulip-fanciers and auricula-growers. The roots, which 
are something like miniature dahlia-roots, consist of a 
bundle of small, fleshy, spindle-shaped bodies, called 
claws, which are united at the crown of the plant, whence 
sprout one or more eyes. The Ranunculus requires a 
light yet substantial loam, free from pebbles, and pre- 
viousiy enriched by the complete incorporation of leaf- 
mould and the materials of a spent hotbed. The pro- 
portions of these will vary according to the heaviness or 
sandy nature of the original soil. All scalding droughts, 
as well as superfluous moisture, must be guarded against. 
As to the time of planting, there are two opinions ; some 
put the roots into the ground at the end of October, and 
this is best if the ensuing winter proves favourable. 
Others defer it till January or February, when they hope 
that the severest inclemency of the season has passed 
away. The safety insured by the latter plan is purchased 



TUBEROUS A>~D EHIZOXTATOTJS ITOWEES. 69 

at a slight sacrifice of the fineness of the bloom. Very 
small tubers, like those of the Ranunculus, are apt to 
be weakened by remaining too long above ground. At 
whatever time, when the bed is prepared and levelled, 
make along it parallel trenches six inches apart, and 
from two and a half to three inches deep. It is better 
to deposit the roots in these, than to drop them into holes 
made with a dibble. The plants may be six inches apart 
every way, and can therefore thus be easily arranged in 
quincunx order. Too wide a bed is inconvenient. In 
the trenches, at the spot where each plant is to stand, 
drop a good pinch of river sand, as much as you can take 
up lightly with the thumb and three fingers. On this 
sand plant each root, one by one, taking care that the 
claws are downwards, and the crown of eyes uppermost. 
Cover in the earth carefully, so that the crown is not 
more than two inches, nor less than an inch and a half, 
below the surface. Now comes the critical period of 
their existence. The claws swell, by imbibing moisture 
from the earth, and if frost reaches them then, they are 
apt to perish. The danger is less when vegetation has 
once commenced, as the superfluous fluid is thus carried 
off". Covering with hoops, or canvass awning, or a thick 
bed of straw, or carpeting with mats, must be resorted 
to when such a casualty threatens to occur. Early in 
spring, when the leaves begin to peep above-ground so 
as to render the ranks of plants visible, the surface of the 
soil between each rank should be compressed with the 
hand quite close to the plants, on a fine dry day, when 
the earth is not muddy nor sticky. Protection from 
March and April frosts, weeding of course, watering (not 
too hastily nor abundantly) in the droughts of May, and 
shading when the sun begins to scorch, are the subsequent 
attentions requisite. Yery choice collections of Ranun- 
culuses are mostly complimented with the honour of an 
awning during their period of bloom. By the beginning 
of July, the foliage will be all withered, and the roots 
had better be taken up immediately, lest a summer shower 
should saturate them with moisture, rendering their 



70 



THE FLOWEB GAJBDEK. 



preservation more difficult. Lay them in an airy shady 
shed, and clean and separate the offsets at once. The 
finest of these will bloom well, and may be planted 
together with the full-grown tubers. The lesser offsets 
had better spend a season in a preparatory bed, to gain 
their adult strength. The roots may be kept in airy bags, 
or boxes, till the return of the planting season. The 
vitality of Ranunculus roots is tenacious ; they have been 
kept out of the ground two, three, and even more years, 
without perishing. It is needless to observe that such 
accidents should be avoided, unless purposely tried for 
the sake of experiment. Offsets are the usual means of 
multiplication ; the tuber also may be divided, when it 
has more than one eye ; but it is a nice operation, with 
so small a root. Varieties may be infinitely multiplied 
from seed ; for it is asserted that the seed of the ranun- 
culus in no instance ever produces two flowers alike, or 
the same as those of the parent plant. Semi-double 
flowers will give seed ; of course the handsomest will be 
selected. When the stems are ripe, they are cut. and 
hung up in paper bags for a fortnight or a month, to dry. 
Some sow immediately ; but new seed does not rise so 
well as that a year old. In the open ground, spring is 
the time for sowing ; but in boxes, or under frames, many 
prefer the end of summer. Sow on light, rich, well- 
sifted soil, and cover with another very slight coating of 
earth gently dusted from the sieve. Some lay a stratum 
of moss over all, till the seeds begin to germinate. Light 
waterings, moderate exposure to sunshine and air, weed- 
ings, and protection from insect vermin, will follow. The 
seeds are from thirty to fifty days in coming up, accord- 
ing to the temperature. First year's seedlings may be 
taken up and replanted in fresh soil. They will show 
bloom from their second to their third year. 

Gardeners have taken advantage of the tenacity of life 
in Eanunculus roots, to obtain blooms from them nearly 
all the year round. In the open ground, they may be 
planted every month, from the middle of September to 
August inclusively. In September and October, they 



TUBEROUS AXD EHIZOIIATOUS ULOWEES. 71 



may be planted in pots, to be brought forward in hot- 
beds under glass. For a bloom in September or Octo- 
ber, plant about the middle of July. For a bloom 
throughout the season, commence in February, and 
plant every fortnight or three weeks. In September, 
plant in a frame, and you will have a bloom about J anu- 
ary or February. But it must be confessed, that the 
Eanimculus loses, by forcing, much of its strength of 
stem and brilliancy of colour ; and there is a time for all 
things, — even for Eanunculuses to keep out of sight. 
IrVe do not want every day to behold the very same 
flower, any more than we desire- every day to partake of 
the very same dish. 

Tropceolum. — See " The Kitchen- Garden,'' art. Nas- 
turtium, p. 130. The difficulty of getting T. tuberosum 
to flower, is merely that our summers are not long 
enough. In November, it will often show abundant 
bloom : but it must develop its quantum of leaves 
before it begins to form flower-buds. The best remedy 
is to bring it forward in a greenhouse in a pot, and after- 
wards plunge that pot where the plant is to stand. It 
is an exceedingly useful and pretty climber, a3 is also 
the T. canariensis or aduncum, the Canary-bird flower, 
which does not form a tuberous root, but must be treated 
like the common garden Nasturtiums, i. e., as half-hardy 
annuals. Another exceedingly graceful tuberous species 
is T. tricolorum, the tricoloured (black, red, and yellow) 
Tropaeolum, from Valparaiso, which is almost always 
in flower. Its very slender trailing stems must be sup- 
ported on a frame-work of wire, which may be modelled 
as vases, parasols, columns, peacocks' tails, &c. 3 and 
which will be completely clothed by the lively foliage and 
flowers of the plant. The tuber, unfortunately, is not 
hardy, and the species is mainly adapted for in-door cul- 
ture. Paxton advises that the foot should not be buried, 
but only placed on the surface of the soil, so that its fibrous 
roots may penetrate it. The tuber, thus established, will 
grow in a truly astonishing manner ; and although the 
plants may not luxuriate the first season, they will after- 



72 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



wards become extremely vigorous. The same* high autho- 
rity recommends using double pots for these plants, and 
filling up the interstices with river-sand, which should 
always be kept moist. Perhaps T. tuberosum might be 
made to flower earlier, if its tuber were laid on the 
ground, instead of being buried in it. Certainly, the 
new tubers which it forms are always at or near the 
surface. There are two blue-flowered species of Tropae- 
olum ; Wagner's Tropaeolum, T. Wagnerianum, from 
Venezuela, with fibrous roots, triangular hastate leaves, 
and fringed-edged petals ; and T. cceruleum, with tuber- 
ous roots. The latter may be multiplied by grafting on 
the tubers of more common species, — a delicate opera- 
tion. The latter are not common, and can hardly be 
regarded as out-door plants, as far as present experience 
has ascertained. The introduction of these, and innu- 
merable other varieties, is due to the Messrs. Yeitch, of 
Exeter, to whom, and to their collectors, the Messrs. 
Lobb, European horticulturists are immensely indebted. 
To those gentlemen recourse may be had for specimens 
and accurate details respecting these and similar floral 
novelties. One more remarkable species is T. speciosiun, 
from the island of Chiloe, which has large flowers of a 
bright vermilion, shaded with yellow. All the Tropseo- 
lums are climbing plants, whose habit is to hang in fes- 
toons from whatever points of support they can attach 
themselves to, and decorate with their garlands of hun- 
dreds and sometimes thousands of flowers. 



HERBACEOUS ELOWERS. 

Plants are called Herbaceous when, although their 
existence may endure for a term of years, the stems 
which support their leaves and flowers, instead of mount- 
ing permanently like those of shrubs and trees, die down 
to the root, or to the tuft of leaves which crowns the 
root, every winter, to send up fresh stems (if they are 
not stemless, as is the case with many herbaceous plants) 
the following spring. They are thus clearly distinguished 



HERBACEOUS FLOWERS, 



73 



from annuals and biennials, which, after making their 
flower-stem and ripening their seed, whether in the first 
or second summer after having been sown, themselves 
perish utterly. For gardening purposes, exotic plants 
which in their own country would form permanent stems, 
whether as standards or climbers, but which are killed 
by our winters down to their root, although that may 
survive either by its own vigour or by the gardener's 
protective aid, — such plants may be practically regarded 
as herbaceous here. There are even true shrubs, as 
certain species of rose, which manifest an affinity to 
herbaceous plants, by annually shooting young stems 
from the original stool, which flower vigorously, while 
the older stems languish and die. It will be seen, there- 
fore, that the list of " Herbaceous Flowers" admits of 
considerable latitude in its formation. It comprises very 
many exceedingly useful as well as beautiful ornaments 
of the parterre and pleasure-ground. The genera and 
species composing it are very numerous, and the follow- 
ing incomplete notice must necessarily be of the utmost 
brevity. 

Alstroemeria. — A South American genus, fitter for the 
greenhouse than the garden. A. psittacinus, the most 
robust. A. versicolor resists our winters with a covering 
over the roots ; has produced numerous varieties. Try 
also A. palchella, A, aurea, and A. peregrina in the open 
ground. Propagate by seeds, which will mostly flower 
the second year ; more readily by division of the root, 
carefully, for it is very brittle. Avoid excess of water- 
ing. 

American Cowslip — DodecatJieon Meadia — i. e., Dr. 
Mead's plant of the Twelve Divinities. Linnaeus has 
been sneered at for giving such a name, for no better 
apparent reason than that this exceedingly pretty plant 
generally bears a bouquet of twelve rosy-lilac flowers 
at the top of its flower-stem. But the great naturalist 
was more learned than many of his critics. The Dode- 
catheon, amongst the ancient Greeks, was a medicinal 
herb, in great repute as an antidote, on which specific 



74 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



virtues were believed to have been conferred by each of 
the twelve heathen gods and goddesses, — Jupiter, Juno, 
Apollo, Mars, Venus, Ceres, Neptune, Mercury, Vulcan, 
Minerva, Diana, and Vesta. What the plant was 
exactly, we know not ; but Linnaeus paid a graceful com- 
pliment to the greatest physician of his age, by coupling 
his name with a classical herb of medicinal power, while 
he avoided the anachronism of applying, to an American 
plant, a name used in Greece before America was disco- 
vered, by styling it Mead's Dodecatheon. Hardy, and 
yet not easy to keep. Grow it- in a mixture of one-third 
light loam, two-thirds heath-mould, in a half-shady 
spot. Never let it be dry, and never wet; in either 
case, you are apt to lose it. " Another reason of its being 
lost," as shrewdly remarked by Mrs. Loudon, "is, that 
as the stem and leaves die away in winter, the root is 
often dug up and thrown away as dead by jobbing gar- 
deners, who are unacquainted with the plants of the 
garden they are working in. To prevent this, a mark of 
some kind should always be fixed to the plant in small 
gardens ; or when a new gardener is employed, its situa- 
tion should be pointed out to him." They have much 
to answer for, those jobbing gardeners. The American 
Cowslip is perhaps safest in a pot in a cold frame. 

Antirrhinum majus — Garden Snapdragon. In French, 
Mufle de Veau, Calf's Muzzle, and Gueule de Lion, 
Lion's Mouth. — Has produced numerous varieties, one 
of the most esteemed of which is striped with red on a 
white ground, like a carnation ; others are shaded with 
orange and yellow. Prefers dry, loamy, or calcareous 
soil ; an exceedingly ornamental plant for the tops of 
walls. Seedlings produced in abundance, but not to be 
depended on. Propagate choice kinds by cuttings from 
the young shoots every year. 

Aquilegia vulgaris — Columbine, — so called because the 
flower can be separated into portions, each of which 
resembles a columba, or dove. In Prench, Gant de 
Notre Dame, or Our Lady's Glove. — Has been grown in 
gardens for centuries past, and varies through shades of 



HERBACEOUS FLOWEES. 



75 



white, red, and violet, plain or striped, single or double. 
Propagated by seed or root-division. A. Sibirica and 
glandulosa have handsome blue flowers ; ordinary soil ; 
protection of litter in winter ; apt to degenerate it* raised 
from seed. 

Asclepias — Swallow- Wort. — American plants, of doubt- 
ful hardihood in British winters. Soil, half light loam, 
half heath-mould. Try A. Cor?iuti, erroneously named 
by Linnaeus Syriaca ; roots of very vagabond disposition, 
flowers white, dashed with red, sweet-scented. Try, also, 
A. amoena with reddish purple, and A. tuberosa with 
brilliant orange-red flowers. 

Auricula — Primula Auricula. — The florists' Auricula is 
a flower of old-established merit and ancient respecta- 
bility, whose varieties are exceedingly numerous, and 
whose special culture and the secrets belonging to it, 
with the rules and tricks of practised fanciers, would fill 
a voluminous treatise. Such Auriculas are grown in 
pots, in light soil in damp climates, in somewhat stiffer 
where the atmosphere is drier. The compost is made 
up of sandy loam and leaf-mould, with varying propor- 
tions of rotten cow-dung, rabbit-dung, sheep-dung, 
thoroughly decomposed hotbeds, and other mild manures, 
according to the local recipe. Auriculas are Alpine 
plants ; therefore they suffer not only from severe frosts, 
but from sudden changes of temperature and humidity. 
During heavy rains, it is usual to lay the pots on their 
sides ; they should catch only the morning and the even- 
ing sun. Auriculas, if even of only ordinary merit, re- 
quire and deserve the shelter of a cold frame to protect 
their blooms from injury. Propagate by offsets, taken 
off after flowering, or in autumn ; for new varieties, by 
seed sown as soon as ripe in shallow pans of heath-mould, 
slightly covered. Protect the young plants in a frame 
till they have five or six leaves, when they may be pricked 
out in separate pots and treated as adults. The common 
border Auriculas are usually called Bears 1 Ears, and only 
require a somewhat moist and shady situation, with 
occasional division of the root. 



76 



THE FLOWER GARDEN, 



Campanula — Bell-flower, Hare-hell. — The Canterbury 
Bell, C. Medium, is the Virgin's Violet, or Viola Mariana 
of the sixteenth century, whence it has been falsely styled 
the Marine Violet. A large genus, not nice about soil, 
of easy culture and propagation, and valuable as afford- 
ing abundance of blue flowers. Perhaps the most re- 
markable, C. pyramidalis, sends up a flower-stem six 
feet high or more, covered with blue blossoms from top 
to bottom ; best grown in pots, during winter at least. 
Propagate by offsets. The flower-stem may be trained 
to form arches or garlands, which will produce a long 
succession of bloom, if well supplied with water. C. ces~ 
pitosa, a little tufted plant, makes a pretty edging, either 
in its blue or its white variety. C. muralis, with blue or 
bluish-white flowers, makes an elegant little rock-plant. 
C. 3£edium (a biennial), persiccsfolia, grandis, Carpatica, 
latifolia, and glomerata, are all useful border plants. C. 
punctata, introduced in 1844 from Siberia, has heart- 
shaped radical leaves, and large nodding yellowish 
flowers, spotted inside with brown : multiplied by root- 
division. C nobilis, from China, has creeping roots, 
heart-shaped leaves covered with bristles, as are the 
stems, and very large tubular vinous-red flowers sprinkled 
with darker spots. Thrives in the open air in fresh 
hazel loam. 

Campion (Mose) — Agrostemma coronaria. — In its dou- 
ble variety, a useful border plant which is not particular 
about its soil and situation. — See Lychnis. 

Calceolaria. — A very elegant and numerous genus, 
more suited for the greenhouse than the open garden, 
and composed of species some of which are shrubby and 
some herbaceous. The former may be used as bedding 
plants during summer, but none will stand our winters. 
The shrubby Calceolarias (so called because the shape of 
the blossoms is something like a shoe) are readily pro- 
pagated by cuttings, and require to be well supplied with 
water. C. bicolor, white and yellow, is one of the pret- 
tiest. C. corymbosa has bright yellow flowers. For 
bedding, it is best to employ only a single species by 



HERBACEOUS FLOWERS 



77 



itself, as the various species differ considerably in habit 
and growth. The herbaceous species, which are also 
tender in winter, and require plenty of water while 
flowering, are propagated by separation of the stool, and 
by seeds for new varieties, which are now very nume- 
rous, and have attained the rank of florists' flowers. It 
is curious that the shrubby and the herbaceous Calceo- 
larias hybridize freely together. They all like a large 
proportion of leaf-mould in their soil. 

Carnation — Dianthus cai^yophyllus. — Another florists' 
flower, which would occupy all the remaining space in 
this Book, if allowed. For what it must be, as an Exhi- 
bition flower, see G-lenny's " Properties." Of the Pico tee, 
that gentleman pronounces, " The properties of form are 
similar to those of the Carnation ; but the distinction 
between Carnations and Picotees is, that the colour of 
the former is disposed in unequal stripes, going from the 
centre to the outer edges, and that of the Picotees is 
disposed on the outer edges of the petals, and radiates 
inwards ; and the more uniformly this is disposed, the 
better." The choicest varieties of both these flowers are 
named ; and new ones, raised from seed, are constantly 
appearing in the Nurserymen's advertisements, for which 
see the Gardeners' Chronicle. The wild Carnation, like 
several other species of Dianthus or Pink, is found grow- 
ing luxuriantly on the tops of walls and similar arid 
spots. In the south of Europe, the garden Carnation is 
treated accordingly, and delights the casual passenger by 
displaying pendent heads of flowers in unlooked-for sites. 
The fact gives a hint in respect to culture ; Carnations 
are injured by too much moisture. In beds, they are 
usually grown in light rich mould, composed of calca- 
reous loam, silver-sand, leaf-mould, and rotten cow-dung. 
A lady betrayed the secret of her great success with Car- 
nations, by setting her foot on the bed, wherein it sunk 
ankle-deep. Perhaps the good drainage thereby insured 
was literally at the bottom of her triumphs ; for pot Car- 
nations have mostly the earth pressed firmly down about 
them. Propagate, and also maintain the excellence of 



78 



THE FLOWER GABDEF. 



good kinds, by layering every year after the flowering 
season. Make a slight slit in the underside of the shoot, 
at the point where it will be imbedded in the earth, imme- 
diately below a joint or bud. Keep the slit open with a 
small slip of wood, peg the layer down with a small crook- 
stick, and cover it with light earth. Carnations may 
be also increased, after blooming, by "pipings," i. e. the 
ends of shoots hroken of at a joint, not cut, so as to 
form a short pipe-like cutting. Some cut off the tips of 
the leaves, which in Carnations and Pinks is technically 
called the " grass." The pipings then are made to strike 
root, under a hand-glass, in a mixture of leaf-mould and 
silver-sand. Pinks are more generally piped, Carnations 
layered. As the flower-stems rise, they must be sup- 
ported by sticks. Very double flowers, which would 
burst their calyx, are held together by a twist of thread, 
a disk of card, and other means ; and fastidious florists 
have even tweezers, brushes, and scissors, to dress and 
arrange the petals. Double Carnations will produce 
seed, which should have the preference for raising new 
varieties. Sow in earthen pans, in spring ; and prick out 
the plants, in prepared beds, when they have made six or 
eight leaves. The following season will give you the 
result of your lottery. 

It is questionable whether the Tree Carnation, D.fru- 
ticosus, has a just right to a distinct specific name ; but 
it is well worth cultivation, from its upright, shrubby 
habit of growth, which adapts it for training to a trellis 
in the conservatory, or even in a pot, and also from its 
flowering nearly all the year round, if kept in a green- 
house or a warm room during winter. The flowers are 
sweet-scented, and are tinted with divers colours, white 7 
straw-colour, pink, red, and crimson. JNT.B. In layering 
Carnations, water very sparingly two or three days before- 
hand, in order to render the shoots more flexible. The 
Tree Carnations are sometimes so tall and stiff that it is 
impossible to layer them by bending them to the ground. 
In that case, the shoots are made to pass through small 
pots of earth, that are temporarily supported or sus- 
pended at the required height. 



HERBACEOUS ELOWEES. 



79 



Chrysanthemum — Pyrethrum of modern Botanists. — 
The garden Chrysanthemums are said to belong to two 
species ; P. Sinense, the Large-flowered Chrysanthe- 
mums ; and P. Indicum, the Pompone, or small-flowered 
varieties. Of both these, there are very many named 
sorts ; and new varieties are constantly appearing, throw- 
ing their predecessors into the shade, by the charm of 
novelty, if not of beauty. Chrysanthemums are of the 
easiest culture, by root-division in early spring, by cut- 
tings in April and May, and by layers in July and 
August, which will strike root, bear transplanting, and 
flower the same summer. A light rich soil and plenty of 
moisture, is all they require. To keep them dwarf, for 
pots, constant shifting into a size larger is a usual mode; 
but from shoots taken shortly before the formation of the 
flower-buds, and struck under glass, in heat, very pretty- 
dwarf plants are often obtained. The Chrysanthemum, 
which would be admired at any season, is specially valued 
as being the last showy flower of the year. But out-door 
plants are at the mercy of the weather, which may allow 
them to bloom, or may not. A few choice chrysanthe- 
mums deserve a place against a south or east wall ; there 
they will bloom a little earlier, and also enjoy a little 
shelter. Most gardeners, however, bestow their labour 
on pot- culture, removing the plants into a frame or green- 
house at the first symptom of frost and snow. Chrysan- 
themums offer great variety of form as well as of colour : 
there are the Quilled, the Tasselled, the Incurved, the 
Clustered, the Eanunculus-flowered, the Marigold-flow- 
ered, and the Aster-flowered. 

A dozen good Chrysanthemums : the Queen, blush ; 
Vesta, ivory-white ; Nonpareil, rosy-lilac ; Sulphurea 
pallida ; Themis, rose ; Defiance, white ; Beauty, peach- 
blush ; Marguerite d'Anjou, nankin; Madame Andre, 
rose and white ; King of Crimsons ; Calypso, lilac ; 
Bolla, purple. 

A dozen good Pompones : Mont Blanc, white ; Ariadne, 
red ; Beine des Anemones, white ; La Pygmee, yellow ; 
La Buche, blush ; Biquiqui, plum-coloured ; Cedo 
nulli, white tipped with buff; Bijou d' Horticulture, 



80 



THE FLOWEB GAEDEK". 



sulphur-white ; Cinderella, lilac ; Drin-drin, bright 
yellow ; Modele, white ; Jonas, bronzy-yellow and 
crimson. 

Cineraria. — Star-shaped flowers, subshrubby and herba- 
ceous, most brilliantly tinted with white, pink, blue, 
crimson, purple, and violet, in the richest hues. It is a 
pity that they are as good as useless in the garden, from 
their tenderness, combined with the early period at which 
they form their flower-stem. As pot-plants, for indoor 
decoration of the parlour-window, the greenhouse, or the 
passage-conservatory, Cinerarias are invaluable, as they 
may be had in flower from December to May. They 
will grow from seed, cuttings, and divided roots, in ordi- 
nary light rich garden soil, which should be kept rather 
moist than dry. The African Cineraria, or rather Aster, 
Agaihcea amelloides, or c&lestis, is a very old-fashioned, 
almost forgotten window-plant, with the curious combina- 
tion of very light sky-blue rays surrounding a yellow disk. 
It is tender, and likes light rich soil, in common with 
other Cape plants, and strikes easily from cuttings. It 
deserves to be patronized as a bedding plant, and to be 
rescued from its present obscurity. In floriculture, a 
resuscitation is sometimes even more interesting than a 
novelty. 

Cobcea scandens. — A climber, with large dull purple 
flowers, useful for its rampant growth. The roots may 
survive the winter, with protection, in the open ground ; 
but for safety, raise plants every year, from layers or cut- 
tings, to be kept in pots till the return of spring allows 
them to be planted out in a warm aspect, in good hazel 
loam. 

Coltsfoot (sweet-scented). — The Tussilago suaveolens of 
other days, is now Nardosmia fragrans. Its flowers, 
with a powerful heliotrope-odour, appear in winter, before 
the leaves. "Will grow in any moist loamy soil, from slips 
of the root ; but will become troublesome, if allowed to 
have its own way too much. Give it an inch, it will take 
an ell. 

Columbine. — See Aquilegia. 



HERBACEOUS ELOWEES. 



81 



Commelina tuberosa. — A Mexican plant, whose tuberous 
roots may pass the winter outdoors, if sufficiently covered 
with litter and leaves. Some take them up every autumn, 
while others raise fresh plants from seed, on a hotbed, 
every spring. The bright azure-blue of the flowers has 
a pretty effect when grown in large patches, or in beds. 

Cranesbill — Geranium, of many species. — The Cranes- 
bills which will live with us as perennial border plants, 
though pleasing, are not sufficiently handsome to show 
cause why they should not be transferred from the gar- 
den to the shrubbery. One, the blotched-leaved gera- 
nium, has been recommended as a' fodder-plant for cattle. 
Propagate by root-division. 

Crowfoot. — See Ranunculus, in Tuberous Flowers. 

Daisy (Double) — Bellis perennis. — There are Quilled, 
Double, and Proliferous or Hen-and- Chicken Daisies, of 
various shades of white, pink, and crimson. In Flanders 
and Germany, some trouble is taken to raise new varie- 
ties from seed, and collections of Daisies are formed. 
They are useful plants for making edging or small gay 
beds in spring ; nor are they to be despised when grown 
in pots or boxes. Propagate by root-division, — an opera- 
tion which should be performed every autumn, to insure 
fine and abundant flowers. 

Dielytra spectabilis. — Introduced by Mr. Fortune from 
China, in 1846, and alone well worth the journey thither. 
A beautiful plant, with bright green, divided leaves, suc- 
culent, semi-transparent stems, and pendant pink and 
white flowers of singular form, on beholding which a 
London man-cook was in ecstasies, because they were, 
in shape, something like a turbot ! Perfectly hardy in 
our severest winters ; likes a good hazel loam ; desirable 
either for pots, beds, or borders. Forces well Pro- 
pagate by root-division. 

Escholtzia Calif or nica—K. hardy plant whose intro- 
duction caused a great sensation amongst gardeners. Its 
bright-yellow flowers contrast strikingly with the deep- 
cut glaucous foliage. JEJ. crocea is a darker, saffron- 
tinted species, — or variety. Some plants display addi- 



82 



THE FLOWEK GABDEIS". 



tional petals, which encourages the hope that double 
flowers may hereafter be obtained. Sow the seed as 
soon as ripe. 

Evening Primrose. — Oenothera (it ought to be pro- 
nounced with the e accented long) is the Greek name of 
a herb which we are unable to specify now. It cannot 
have been an Evening Primrose, because they all come 
from America. Some are biennial, seeding freely ; others 
are perennial, like the very pretty CE. tetraptera, or Four- 
winged CEnothera, which sends up stems covered with a 
succession of large white flowers from July to October, 
and is readily propagated by runners from the root, in 
any garden soil. The two commonest yellow Evening 
Primroses are, CE. snaveolens, which opens its sweet- 
scented flowers at the approach of night, and CE. serotina, 
of more shrubby habit, but equally prolific of flowers. 
These will become almost weeds in a garden, from their 
rapid multiplication by seed. CE. macrocarpa produces 
handsome yellow flowers all summer long. Propagate by 
cuttings and root-division. CE. Drummondi is a tenderer 
yellow-flowered species. CE. speciosa, from Louisiana, has 
sub-shrubby trailing stems ; oblong lanceolate indented 
leaves, pubescent underneath; large white flowers in 
bunches, sweet-smelling towards night, appearing from 
July till stopped by frost. Eequires preservation from 
excessive moisture in winter. CE. rosea, from Mexico, is 
hardy, has oval, pointed leaves, produces numerous pink 
flowers from June to October, and is reproduced abun- 
dantly from self-sown seeds. CE. purpurea is a North 
American annual, which may be either sown where to 
remain, or be pricked out from a nursery-bed. CE, acaulis, 
Stemless or Dandelion-leaved Evening Primrose, from 
Chili, is a hardy perennial, bearing large white flowers 
tinged with pink. It will be thus seen that the Oeno- 
theras afford useful materials for keeping a garden gay. 
The tenderer kinds are apt to suffer from the dampness 
of an English winter. 

Everlasting. — More than one genus of plants is known 
by this name amongst gardeners. Gnaplialium orient ale 



HERBACEOUS PLOTTERS. 



S3 



is the Yellow Everlasting, of which such enormous quan- 
tities are sold, in the shape of garlands and crowns, out- 
side the cemeteries of France, to hang about the graves 
of relations and friends. This Everlasting is a perennial, 
low, cottony plant, thriving best in a warm, light, dry- 
soil. Heliclirysum bracteatum, the annual or large- 
flowered Everlasting, produces yellow flowers, and only 
requires to be sown in spring ; there is a white variety. 
H. rnacranthum, from Australia, with white flowers 
tinged with various shades of pink, which have varied 
considerably since its introduction to this country, must 
be grown in heath-mould, and treated as a tender annual. 
Helipterum eximium, speciosissimum, and humile, are Cape 
Everlastings; require pot and greenhouse culture, in 
heath-mould. Xeranthemum annuum, Purple Everlasting, 
is an annual, rising half a yard high, with cottony stems 
and leaves. Must be raised on a hotbed ; and is grown 
best in pots in rich sandy soil, although it will flower 
well in a warm dry border, in fine summers. The coarse 
white Everlasting of old farm-house gardens is little 
better than a troublesome weed. Dried Everlastings 
are made to assume various hues by dyeing ; the taste is 
questionable. In drying the flowers for winter bou- 
quets, cut them before they are fully expanded, and keep 
them suspended heels upwards till they are perfectly stiff. 

Foxglove — Digitalis purpurea. — A native plant, which 
adorns the rocky slopes of Scotland and Wales with its 
bold and taper spikes of crimson flowers, delicately 
spotted within. There is a white variety, which, together 
with the original, well deserves a place in the garden. 
Biennial, though, in point of fact, the stool will often 
prolong its existence by dividing into offsets. Sow the 
seeds as soon as ripe, and prick out where to remain 
when large enough. The same culture is applicable to 
all the species, such as D. grandiflora, from Switzerland, 
with large yellow purple-spotted flowers ; D. olscura, 
from Spain, with small rusty flowers and shrubby stems, 
tender in winter ; and D. ferruginea, a hardy perennial, 
with flowers yellow outside and white within. The Eox- 

G 2 



84 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



glove is a poisonous plant, employed in medicine to 
diminish and deaden the action of the heart. Due 
caution must therefore be observed in not carelessly nib- 
bling and chewing its leaves, — a foolish habit in which 
some people indulge whenever they happen to enter a 
garden. 

Geum — Herb Bennet ; Benoit, in French : all which 
means no more than Benedictus, or Blessed. — A genus 
more remarkable from having been one of the favour- 
ites, the whims, the caprices of the great Linnaeus, 
than for anything else. It is hard to say what, in the 
Geum rivale, for instance, a British meadow weed, could 
so take the fancy of the Master. It is impossible to 
account, logically, for attachments and sympathies. The 
handsomest Greuin, perhaps, is G. coccineum, Scarlet 
Bennet, a hardy perennial, with radical pennated leaves 
having very large terminal leaflets, sending up a branch- 
ing stem half a yard high, which produces, during the 
summer, a succession of scarlet flowers. Requires a 
light soil and a warm exposure. Multiply by seed and 
root-division. There is a double variety. 

Gentian — Gentiana. — An Alpine genus of great 
beauty, whose leading characteristic is that they are both 
bitter and beautifully blue, though some are yellow. 
Seen on the exposed ridges of their native mountains in 
May and June, they look like brilliant bits of sky that 
have dropped on the earth. G. acaulis, Dwarf or Stem- 
less Gentian, is sometimes used as an edging. It is better 
in a led, in heath-mould, by itself, requiring a half-shady, 
neither wet nor dry situation. Propagate by offset- 
shoots, and by seeds sown as soon as ripe on heath- 
mould, and not covered. G. verna, same intense blue 
colour and culture. G. purpurea has yellow flowers 
speckled with purple. G. lutea, with large yellow 
flowers, is the species whose roots furnish the bitter 
tonic medicine, the gentian of the apothecaries. Pro- 
pagate by seed, in sandy loam, not too exposed to the 
sun. G. asclepiadea and saponaria, from North America, 
have both blue flowers, and require the same treatment 



HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 



85 



as the Dwarf Gentian. The whole of this family of 
mountaineers abhor the smoke and dust of towns, and 
like in winter something that will answer the purposes of 
their homely native coverlid of snow. 

Geranium. — Count the sands of the sea, and then 
count the varieties of Geranium. In the garden, they 
are only serviceable as bedding-plants, for summer show. 
Their propagation and preservation during winter is 
almost a business by itself, engaging the attention of 
nurserymen who sell them by hundreds and thousands 
in spring, and who receive in the aggregate immense 
returns, if they do not make large profits, as they ought, 
from their sale. During March, April, and May, the 
gardening journals teem with advertisements relative to 
bedding geraniums, which may be generally ranged in two 
classes, the Scarlets and the Fancies ; there are white- 
flowered geraniums, with the foliage and habit of the 
Scarlets, which may be effectively combined with them 
in a bed. For any of these, recourse may always be had 
to the nurseryman, at a reasonable rate ; still, those who 
like to be independent, may strike an abundance of 
cuttings during summer, and w T inter them in the dwelling- 
house by all sorts of expedients. Scarlets may be turned 
out of their pots, and hung up in a cellar with their balls 
of earth; Fancies will not bear such unceremonious 
treatment. After every available corner or window-sill 
has been occupied, still, observes the Calendar of the 
Gardeners' Chronicle, February 16, 1856, " the demand 
for bedding-out plants in the spring is frequently greater 
than the room devoted to their wintering can supply. 
It will in this case be necessary to commence propagat- 
ing to make good the deficiencies. For all the soft- 
wooded and free-growing plants, a common dung- frame, 
having a slight bottom-heat, will suffice ; fill up to within 
twelve inches of the glass, upon which place four inches 
of dry sandy soil, in which the cuttings may be put 
directly you can procure a young growth for the purpose. 
As the display of flowers during the early summer 
months depends mainly on the health of t the stock at 



S6 



THE PLOTTER GAEDE^. 



planting time, it will save labour and increase the size 
and healthiness of the plants to turn them out of their 
pots or cutting-pans into low pits or frames ; and a light 
sandy compost will serve for them to grow in. If six 
inches of this is placed over a very light bottom-1: 
plants will soon make rapid growth ; and yon will have 
the advantage of an abnndance of cuttings for propaga- 
tion, if wanted. Calceolarias. Petunias. Verbenas, and 
such things, answer best for this ; but where time and 
pot-room are objects. Scarlet Geraniums, and nearly 
every variety of bedding-out stuff, may be managed on 
the above plan. Before planting time, the plants should 
be checked by raising them once or twice with a spade. 
Put in root-cuttings, in a brisk bottom-heat, of Bouvar- 
dias. and some kinds of geraniums difficult to strike in 
the ordinary wav. or of which cuttings are scarce to be 
got." 

Golden Bod — SoJidago. — In general, tall, ugly things, 
flowering in autumn, only lit to serve as a screen for 
a pin-stye, or to be stubbed up and burnt with the rest 
of the weeds and garden refuse. We are possessed of 
more than sixty species ; too many, by half, and not 
worth naming. Propagate, if you will, by root-division. 
Will grow anywhere and ornament nowhere. 

Grass. — Besides their utility for lawns and edgings, 
many of the grasses, or gramineous plants are decidedly 
ornamental. Both the Quaking Grasses, Briza media, 
a perennial, and JB. maxima, an a ma h species, serve for 
winter bouquets, and are pretty while growing. Peather- 
grass. Stipa pennata, has its glumes elongated into some- 
thing like a Bird-oi^Paradise plume: gro^vs in any dry 
soil, and increases by tillering at the root. Tne Cotton 
Grasses. Friophorum, of which three or four species 
grow wild in England, are seldom seen in gardens, simply 
because they must have a marsh to grow in : but their 
singular white tufts are worth some trouble to introduce 
as ornaments to the margin of a pond. Praser's Sedge, 
Car ex Fraseriana. merits culture in similar spots. Arv.ndo 
Donas, is a bold tali reed, which will support our win- 



HERBACEOUS ELOWEES. 



>7 



ters when not too severe, and in good deep soil will send 
up noble stems from ten to twenty feet high, producing 
an Eastern, jungle-like effect. But our summers are 
scarcely hot and long enough for this fine reed. In the 
south of Europe and the Levant, it is largely grown to 
serve as vine-props, stakes, and many of the purposes 
for which bamboo is employed. Painters also are fond 
of placing it as the mock sceptre in the hands of the 
Suffering Jesus. Multiply by root-division. Offsets best 
strike root on a hotbed. Do not cut the old stems till 
spring, just as the young buds are beginning to start. A 
magnificent diaecious grass, Gynerium argenteum, which 
appears to be hardy in England and Ireland, has lately 
been introduced from South America. It is too large for 
any but extensive gardens 5 those who desire plants, can 
obtain them from Messrs. Henderson and other first- 
class nurserymen. 

Flax — Linnm. — A large genus, with rather dangerous 
cathartic powers, and pretty flowers, in shades of blue, 
yellow, red, and violet, whose petals are extremely short- 
lived. The most ornamental species are greenhouse 
plants, of shrubby and sub-shrubby growth. The com- 
mon textile Elax, of which linen is made, is frequently 
sown in gardens as an annual. Its azure blossoms plead 
in its favour ; and it is right to make young people fami- 
liar with the aspect of a plant of such extreme utility. 
See our Book on " Elax and Hemp." Z. montanum is a 
blue-flowered perennial of the same hardiness as other 
Alpines, and likes to be shifted after blooming. 

Forget-me-not, — The true plant is the Water Mouse- 
Ear, Myosotis palustris, a charming weed which grows 
wild in abundance in damp meadows, and sends forth 
roots freely from its trailing stems. To have dwarf pot- 
plants, strike cuttings in gentle bottom-heat in early 
spring, selecting terminal shoots, and giving all the light 
and air possible, with plenty of water. The Parisian 
gardeners drive a considerable trade in this pretty 
favourite. M. sylvatica, which grows naturally in drier 
situations, is also cultivated for its blue flowers. Mer- 



88 



THE ELOWEE GAKDEN. 



tensia Sibirica, the Siberian Lungwort, removed by 
modern botanists from the genus JBulmonaria, with 
heart-shaped leaves, and bunches of five or six blue 
flowers, is also sometimes styled Forget-me-not, but 
incorrectly. It thrives in a moist, half-shady spot, and 
increases rapidly at the root. 

Fumitory — Fumaria of the old botanists, Corydalis 
of the moderns. — The Fumitories have long enjoyed, and 
may still enjoy, a certain consideration as pleasing, mo- 
dest spring and summer flowers, unless it be their fate 
to retire before the presence of their beautiful relatives, 
Dielytra. The Tuberous Fumitory, C. bulbosa, blossoms 
in April, and bears a bunch of flowers whose colour 
varies. Quite hardy. C. nobilis, with a perennial tap- 
root, is of taller stature, and has yellow flowers slightly 
tipped with purple. Requires heath-mould ; is propa- 
gated by slips of the root. C. lutea has white and yellow 
flowers, likes stony ground, and is suitable for rock-work. 
C. sempervirens, or more appropriately glauca, as ever" 
green, is a strange title to bestow on an annual plant, 
from Canada, has purplish flowers intermingled with yel- 
low, and when once introduced will come up self-sown. 

Hepatica triloba, or Anemone hepatica — charming 
spring plants, universal favourites, in varieties of white, 
red, and blue, single and double. Thrive best in light 
loam, in a half-shady, half-moist spot. The flowers 
appear before the leaves, which succeed them, and cover 
them soon after the petals have fallen. In December, 
not before, cut off the old leaves with a pair of scissors, 
which will allow the flowers to display themselves unen- 
cumbered by dead foliage. Propagate the double varie- 
ties by division of the stools, not too often. The single 
Hepaticas may likewise be thus increased, and also by 
seed, which continues green, although ripe, for nearly 
two months, and falls at the slightest touch. Watch for 
its maturity, and sow immediately after gathering. 

Hollyhock — Althcea rosea.^-ln French, Passe-Rose 
and Hose Tremiere. Theoretically a biennial, but prac- 
tically a hardy perennial, from the way in which it in- 



HERBACEOUS ELOWEES. 



8£ 



creases by offsets. A noble and useful garden flower, 
either in avenues or clumps, standing singly or collected 
in beds. The Dutch are fond of growing it as dwarf as 
possible, in pots. It is only of late years that the 
English have regarded it as a florists 5 flower, naming the 
choice varieties. Mr. Bircham, of Hedenham Rosary, 
jSTorfolk, was one of the first to direct the attention of the 
public to its merits ; and now the French and English 
gardeners are engaged in a friendly rivalry as to which 
can show the best Hollyhocks. Double flowers only are 
in esteem at present. For new varieties, sow the seed 
in March, duly cultivate the plants during summer, and 
in October plant them where they are to flower. The 
Hollyhock is a gross feeder ; any good garden soil will suit 
it, but on a deep, moist, rich loam, it succeeds the best. 
The finer kinds are largely propagated by eyes, which are 
taken off in summer, and planted in a pit under glass, in 
light sandy soil, placed over a gentle bottom-heat. As 
some kinds only are raised true from seeds, plants from 
cuttings will mostly be preferred to seedlings. At the 
time of final planting out, if in spring, the state of the 
ground is of great importance. To use a common gar- 
dening phrase, the earth should " move like an ash-heap" 
at the time this work is done. It is better even to wait 
a fortnight beyond the most advantageous season, than 
to plant when the ground is wet and clammy. The 
plants should be set firmly in the ground three feet 
apart, not too low, pressing the soil well round the neck 
with the hands, or by a gentle stroke of the foot. This 
done, watering must be attended to, if the season be dry, 
using weak liquid manure, breaking the surface of the 
ground with a hoe the day after the water is given. 
When the flower-stem rises, it should be fastened to a 
stake firmly fixed in the ground at, or soon after, the 
time of planting ; otherwise, some tempestuous gust will 
be sure to prostrate the plants in the height of their 
beauty. Hollyhocks are also propagated by grafting, — 
the less preferable mode. Mr. Paul (see his " An Hour 
with the Hollyhock") enthusiastically lauds this flower 



90 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



for its effectiveness in garden scenery. " The Holly- 
hock," he says, "is a capital plant for the borders of 
plantations or shrubbery walks. It forms a finer distant 
object in such situations than the Dahlia, is less lump- 
ish, and continues blooming to a later period of the year. 
Again, it may be planted to advantage in the back- 
ground of an herbaceous border, so that the lower part 
of the stem is hid from view by the plants in front. In 
both these situations it may be planted singly, in irregu- 
lar lines, or in groups of three or five. And here, per- 
haps, the less choice kinds are more in character than 
the finest, as a high state of culture is neither con- 
venient nor expected. To be effective en masse is all 
that is looked for, and the showiest should be chosen, 
the hardy kinds of brilliant colours, and left to assume 
their natural form of growth. It is sometimes said that 
it is not a suitable plant for small gardens. I think, 
however, it may be agreeably disposed there in avenues, 
or in groups of three or five near the boundary, filling 
up in front with dwarf shrubs, herbaceous, or summer- 
flowering plants. It appears to me anything but diffi- 
cult to effect such an arrangement with this plant as 
shall relieve the flatness often so tiresome in small gar- 
dens. The amateur who cultivates with the view of 
producing the flowers or spikes in the highest state of 
perfection, will probably prefer planting in square beds 
or rows. If in beds, set them three feet apart ; if in 
rows, three feet from plant to plant, and four feet from 
row to row, that one may walk conveniently between 
them. I need, perhaps, scarcely say, that a situation airy, 
and freely exposed to the sun, is indispensable, if we 
wish to carry culture to the highest pitch of 'success." 

First-class English Hollyhocks : Beauty of Cheshunt, 
light rosy red, — one of the finest ; Blushing Bride, deli- 
cate blush, spike handsome and compact ; Charles Barron 
Improved, salmon pink; Darius, orange-buff, large and 
showy ; Diana, rosy peach, edged with carmine, shape 
perfect; Glory of Cheshunt, clear yellow, spike large 
and handsome ; Honourable Mrs. Ashley, peach, shaded 



HERBACEOUS FLOWEES. 



91 



with lilac, one of the finest ; Lizzy Improved, clear peach, 
similar in style to the last, but more brilliant; Lord 
Jocelyn, crimson and very fine ; Louis Xapoleon, silvery 
blush, veined with purple, and though not a show flower, 
very effective ; Magician, cherry, with dark maroon base ; 
Memnon, beautiful light crimson, spike large and fine ; 
Miss Ashley, light fawn, and handsome in shape; Nar- 
cissus, clear yellow; Queen Eleanor, bright rosy peach 
with silvery edges, quite new and distinct ; Eosy Morn, 
bright rose ; Solfaterre, lemon-coloured, and good in 
form ; Souvenir, purplish rose ; Swansdown, white, edged 
with lake; and White Globe, pure white, large and 
compact. 

First-class French Hollyhocks : Amarante, very double, 
dark red ; Anais, very double, admirably shaped, mottled 
or rather jaspered pink ; Arlequin, light violet clouded 
with dark violet and speckled with white ; Boule de Neige, 
very round, double, and pure white ; Chromatella, very 
double, dark yellow ; Desprez, white in the circumference, 
yellow in the centre ; Grand Colbert, double, perfect in 
shape, dark mottled red ; Grand Pe-King, very double, 
nankin yellow; Jeune Euphemie, double, well shaped, 
light red ; Isabelle, very double, cherry-coloured ; Marie- 
Gabrielle, double, fleshy white ; Pluton, very double, 
almost black ; Proserpine, very double, very dark red. 

By stating that the very newest varieties are not re- 
quired, and by leaving the selection to respectable 
nurserymen, such as Paul, Bircham, and many others, a 
good assortment may be ordered with confidence, at quite 
a moderate expense. 

Sop. — Humulus lupidus. — A graceful climber, useful 
for covering verandahs and balconies, and pleasing to the 
eye of those who can admire elegance of form indepen- 
dent of bright colouring. The growth of the Hop 
affords numerous illustrations of the Line of Beauty. 
Its habit of dying to the ground every autumn affords a 
convenient opportunity of painting or cleaning the frame- 
work up which it has climbed. Propagate by root- 
division ; must have a deep, rich loam, well manured. 



92 



THE ILOWEB QABDEN. 



Larkspur. — Delphinium. — Hardy, herbaceous. perennial 
Larkspurs are the Siberian, B. grand iflorum, with a tall 
branching stem, which bears, in July and August, an 
abundance of flowers brilliantly tinted with a cobalt or 
smalt-like blue. There is a double-flowered variety. 
Propagate by seed and onsets. Tall Larkspur. B. elatum, 
with light-blue flowers, remarkable for its stature. Less- 
known species, all with blue flowers, are B. cheilanthum, 
var. Hendersoni. B. Wheeleri, var. speciosum, B. azureum, 
and B. Barlowii. B. alpinum has a bluish calyx and 
yellowish petals ; B. albiflorum, from Armenia, produces 
pure white flowers in long bunches, which have a fine 
effect when the plant is vigorous. All these larkspurs 
are propagated in the same way ; they like a warm, light, 
rich loam, and bear drought better than excess of humidity. 
B. Ajacis and Consolida are the common Wild Larkspurs 
of the fields. The dwarf annual florists' Larkspur pro- 
duces single, semi-double, and double flowers, in various 
shades of white, grey, pink, red, blue, and violet. They 
are most effective in beds or rows. Lor a bed, sow the 
seed, saved from the most double and finely-coloured 
flowers, either in autumn or spring — a sowing at both 
those epochs, will give you a longer succession of bloom 
— in shallow drills eight inches apart. "When the plants 
are well up, thin them out to six inches' distance. 

Lily of the Valley. — Convallaria maialis. — Grows freely 
in light moist soil, in a half-shady spot. Leaf-mould 
suits it best, as most resembling the soil of its native 
woods. Produces seed, but is easiest propagated by its 
creeping roots, of which take up a good large patch. 
Forces well in a pot, in the ordinary temperature of a 
keeping-room. Its perfume, form, and purity of colour 
combined, render this plant a universal favourite. Its 
near relations, the Solomon's Seals, Bolygonatum vulgare 
and mult if! or urn, of less humble stature, thrive under the 
same culture as the Lily of the Valley. 

Lobelia cardinalis, the Cardinal Flower, and also L. 
fulgens and sjilendens, have been held in esteem as 
bedding plants, but have gone somewhat out of fashion. 



HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 



93 



They are propagated by offsets, which must be potted 
separately, require abundance of water, as they naturally 
grow by the edges of ditches, and require the protection 
of a frame or greenhouse in winter. The above produce 
bright-scarlet flowers on tall upright spikes. L. syphilitica 
and coelestis are of humble growth, and produce a long 
succession of light, bright-blue, small flowers, during the 
latter part of summer ; charming plants for bedding or 
borders, but must be wintered under shelter. Propagate 
by cuttings and root-division ; by seed also, if you can 
get it. L. ramosa, from Australia, has large cobalt-blue 
flowers. Sow in autumn, winter in a frame, and plant in 
the open ground in spring. L. heteropliylla, a pretty, 
blue-flowered annual, taller than the preceding, also from 
New Holland, requires the same culture ; as does L. 
bicolor, from the Cape, a perennial, flowers white and 
blue. 

London Pride — Saxifraga tcmhrosa. — From the Alps ; 
forms a pretty edging with its rosettes of leaves. Clip 
the flower-stems close with a pair of shears, as soon as 
the period of bloom is over ; increases troublesomely by 
offset suckers. Heart-leaved Saxifrage, S. cordifolia, 
from Siberia, with large leaves in proportion to the size 
and number of its dull-pink flowers, scarcely deserves 
cultivation. S. granulata. a native plant, is grown, as a 
double variety, for its pretty white flowers. S. crassifolia 
is in repute amongst village doctresses, for its leaves, as 
a cooling application to blisters and wounds in winter 
when beet and mallows are not to be had. S. sarmentosa, 
from China, is a pretty plant to suspend in a pot, but 
will not bear our winters. Propagates itself by runners, 
like the Strawberry. Several other species of Saxifrage 
make pretty rock-plants — (their name signifies " Rock- 
splitter," from the supposed effects of their roots, which 
penetrate into narrow chinks) ; — but they are rather 
agreeable stop-gaps in the border than the claimants of 
rank as florists' flowers. - 

London Tuft, or Sweet William — Diantlius barbatus. — 
Makes a showy bed, from its shades and combinations of 



94 



THE FLOWER GABDE>~. 



white, red, pink, and crimson. Prefers light rich loam, 
well drained. Though a hardy perennial, is best treated 
as a biennial ; for the stools get loose and shabby after 
the second year, and the heads of flowers are inferior for 
want of a change of soil. Sow the seed, which is pro- 
duced abundantly, in a preparatory bed, well manured, 
in spring ; in October, prick out the plants where they 
are to bloom, about six or eight inches apart every way. 
By sowing thus every year, the plants which have 
bloomed may be thrown away, to be succeeded by 
younger and more vigorous individuals. Of course it 
would be wrong to make the same bed produce London 
Tufts, or anything else, year after year. A Flower 
G-arden requires a rotation of crops, in the same way as 
a farm, or a kitchen garden. Bouquet Parfait is the 
flattering title which the French have bestowed on the 
Sweet William. 

Lungwort — Puhnonaria mollis. — A boraginous, rough- 
leaved, hardy plant, which was supposed to be service- 
able in chest complaints, because its leaves are blotched 
with light spots, producing a distant resemblance to 
tuberculous consumption. Its pink and blue flowers are 
rather pretty; grows almost anywhere from seeds and 
bits of divided stool ; helps nicely to furnish the skirts of 
a shrubbery. — See Forget-me-not. 

L wpine — Lupinus. — There are sub-shrubby, herbaceous, 
and annual Lupines, mostly with pretty and abundant 
flowers, in simple spikes, displaying clear bright tints of 
blue, rosy-purple, yellow, and white. Their leaves are 
mostly digitate, i.e. composed of from eight to a dozen 
leaflets, which start like rays from the footstalk as a 
common centre ; some, however, have their leaves entire. 
The sub-shrubby Lupines are in general evergreen green- 
house plants, though Z. Marsh alii 'anus is deciduous. 
The perennial herbaceous kinds are, for the greater part, 
hardy in England, and are valuable border-flowers for 
their succession of blooms and rich colours ; of these, 
L. pohjplujlhis, NbotkatensiSi latifolius, perennis. and 
argenteus, are to be recommended ; while L. tristis, from 



HERBACEOUS ELOWEES. 



95 



California, has sad-looking brown flowers. These should 
be sown in pots, and planted out when they are becom- 
ing vigorous. In their earliest youth they are apt to be 
devoured by slugs. They are also increased by division 
at the root. The annual Lupines are better sown in 
their destined place. L. Termis, with white flowers, is 
used in the South of Europe and the ^orth of Africa as 
forage for cattle, besides being ploughed in green, for 
manure. The most pleasing species are L. rautabilis and 
GruikshanJcii, tall evergreen shrubs in their native 
habitat, though annual here; L. varius, lutens, alius, 
nanus, succulentus, and bicolor. The greenhouse Lupines 
prefer light rich soil ; the others do well in any good 
garden-ground or sound rich loam. 

Lychnis. — The Double Eagged-Eobbin, L. Floscucidi 
(Cuckoo-flower), is of graceful habit, with delicate pink 
flowers, grows in any moist loam, and increases freely at 
the root. L. Chalcedonica, when single, offers the form 
of a Maltese Cross, in white, pink, scarlet, and saffron- 
yellow. The double scarlet variety is a brilliant flower, 
thriving best in light rich loam. There are double gar- 
den varieties of L. viscaria, dioica, and sylvestris. L. AU 
pina makes a pretty decoration to the rock-work, with 
the help of a few handfuls of fresh heath-mould. — See 
Campion, 

Marsh Marigold — Caltha palustris. — An exceedingly 
showy native plant, whose golden petals look as if they 
were enamelled with lacquer. There is a double-blos- 
somed variety which well merits cultivation, but must be 
located in a wet spot. Such gardens as have a marshy 
corner will find no kck of beautiful plants to occupy ir. 
The flower-buds of the Marsh Marigold make a very bad 
imitation of French capers, and are of questionable 
wholesomeness. 

Mesemorianthenium — JS'oon Flower. — An immense 
genus of succulents, mostly shrubby. The Ice-Plant is 
an annual. See our " Kitchen Garden. 5 ' The flowers, of 
considerable beauty, white, yellow, orange, pink, and 
purple, require bright sunshine to make them expand* 



96 



THE FL0WEB GABDE>7. 



They are all greenhouse or parlour plants ; still, they love 
the neighbourhood of the sea. and in some few spots in 
Cornwall and Devonshire they stand the winter planted 
out on rocks, which almost daily are sprinkled by the 
spray of the waves. The effect of their numberless 
blossoms in summer is very fine ; and such a collection 
of out-door mesembrianthemums, where possible, is well 
worth forming. Though succulents, they like a fair share 
of moisture, especially while in full growth. Propagate 
by seeds and cuttings. 

jtficliaelmas Daisies — Aster Alpinus, and mult if. or us, 
— Great, straggling, gawky things, which would be dis- 
carded, but that they put forth flowers, in considerable 
variety of white, pink, purple, and blue, when almost 
everything else is in the sear and yellow leaf, and are 
therefore acceptable to help to fill up bouquets. Propa- 
gate by root division. 

Mimulus moscliatus. — The Musk-plant, will produce 
its cottony foliage and yellow flowers in any damp, shady 
spot ; the same of the Scarlet Mimulus, M. cardinal is. 
From M. c/uttatus, rivularis, variegatus. and perhaps 
others, very many cross-bred varieties have been raised 
from seed, which have obtained a certain reputation as 
florists' flowers. They are more or less hardy, strike 
freely from cuttings, like a mixture of sandy loam and 
heath-mould, with abundance of water. In fact, they 
are almost aquatic plants. The blossoms, though ephe- 
meral, are produced in long succession ; and, if we had 
not so many better things, Mimuluses might boast of 
their floral merits and pretensions, although inclined to 
be weedy. 

Moneywort — Lysimachia nummular ia. i.e. Loose Strife, 
or Stopper of Contests. — A native plant in meadows and 
moist woods, useful as a pendant fringe for rock-work, 
vases, &c. In boxes, it makes an elegant border to the 
floor of a balcony. Its foliage is neat and regular, and a 
little yellow flower appears at the foot of every leaf. 
Little bits of the root will grow in peat earth. Give 
plenty of air, sunshine, and water. 



HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 



97 



Pansy, or Heartfs-ease — Viola tricolor, — A modern 
result of horticultural skill and patience. There are now 
innumerable named and unnamed varieties, whose lead- 
ing " property" is that they must be circular in general 
outline, and flat and very smooth at the edge : every 
notch or unevenness is considered a blemish. Choice 
varieties are propagated by cuttings taken from the ends 
of the shoots, in spring, cutting them off just below a 
joint. Boot-division is also an available mode ; but the 
shoots must be shortened when too long or straggling. 
All good Pansies should be thus divided annually, or 
renewed by cuttings, to prevent them from degeneration. 
Those operations also serve to transfer the plant to fresh 
soil, which should be light and rich, well drained, but not 
dry. Many amateurs find great amusement in raising 
Pansies from seed saved from the finest flowers. These 
are grown in shallow pans of leaf-mould enriched with 
old manure ; and are pricked out, when large enough, to 
the bed wherein they are to show their master what they 
are. Pansies like an open, airy, sunshiny spot. In close 
places, they soon spindle up, straggle about, and pine into 
good-for-nothingness. 

Pentstemon campanulatus.—A. Mexican plant, with 
slender flower-stems, half a yard high, or more, which are 
surmounted by long tubular blossoms, dark-red out- 
side and whitish within. Is useful as a bedding plant, 
from the long continuance of its flowering season. Pro- 
pagate by seeds, cuttings, and parting the stool. Seed- 
lings vary greatly, both in foliage and colour of their 
flowers. Must winter in a cold frame, or green-house. 
P. cyananihus is a hardy perennial, producing long spikes 
of beautiful blue flowers. P. digitalis is a robust plant, 
which has sported into numerous varieties. P. Cohosa, 
from Texas, has large flesh-coloured flowers, striped with 
carmine. A very handsome plant in the open border, 
but delicate. P. glandulosus, from North America, is 
hardy, with large velvety 4ight- violet flowers. It will thus 
be ^seen that, as a genus, the Pentstemons are very 
uncertain in respect to hardiness, though they are all 

H 



98 



THE FLOWER GrABDE-ST. 



more or less ornamental, and well deserve to have winter 
shelter bestowed upon them. _P. Murray antes, requiring 
heath-mould and protection from the frost, is a striking 
plant, with terminal bunches of vermilion blossoms. 
The specific names of other Pentstemons are indicative 
of their beauty; as speciosus, gracilis, venustits. pulohek 
lus, roseus, and so on. 

Perennial Aster — Aster spectabilis, ccespitosus, argen- 
teus, JParisiensis, JReeversii (which makes a pretty edging), 
and several other species sporting into varieties and hybrids. 
The smaller their stature, and the more herbaceous their 
habit, the more desirable are they as border plants. 
"Will thrive in warm light loam, and are increased readily 
by root-division. 

PeriivinMe — Vinca major and minor, the Greater and 
Lesser P. — Native trailing evergreens, which spread 
rapidly at root, and produce abundance of sky-blue 
flowers in spring, in light moist soil and somewhat shady 
situations, and are suitable for covering banks, or for 
forming edgings of a certain breadth. There are white- 
flowered and variegated-leaved varieties of the Lesser 
Periwinkle. Both are readily propagated by cuttings 
of their creeping shoots. Some of Rousseau's most 
sentimental effusions were called forth by the Peri- 
winkle flowering amidst the mountains of Switzer- 
land. V. lierbacea, a Hungarian species of still more 
humble growth, requiring the same soil and culture as 
the preceding, has varieties with double blue and also 
double reddish-purple flowers. The Madagascar Peri- 
winkle, V. rosea, is a stove-plant, with dark shining 
green leaves, with pink flowers darker in the centre, a 
variety of which has white flowers with a crimson centre. 
A pretty pot-plant, with the family habit, flowering, in its 
place, all summer long and part of the winter ; but a green- 
house even is not warm enough for it to grow thriftily. 

Phlox. — There are robust Phloxes, hardy perennials, 
of considerable stature, which help to fill up vacancies in ex- 
tensive pleasure-grounds ; there are others, tenderer, more 
delicate, of humbler growth, in request as free-blooming 



HEBBA.CEOUS FLOWEES 



99 



bedding-plants. Perhaps the prettiest of these is Phlox 
Drummondi, an annual with a twiggy stem and somewhat 
downv foliage, whose lower leaves are oval and the upper 
lanceolate. It produces its pink flowers, which are 
darker in the centre, all summer long. It varies into 
numerous shades of rose and crimson. Propagate by 
seed in light rich loam. Admired kinds may be perpetu- 
ated by cuttings for a longer or shorter lapse of time. 
Phlox, i.e. Flame, is scarcely an appropriate name for the 
genus, as its prevailing colours are white, lilac, blue, 
blush, and pink. P. ox: at a and nitida are exceptions, as 
having bright-red and violet-red flowers. All the species 
belong to the temperate regions of Xorth America : one 
only, P. Sibirica, is found in the north of Asia. The 
Phioxes are in general robust plants which thrive in ordi- 
nary garden-soil, and are increased by cuttings, stool- 
division, and seed : the latter mode has originated many 
varieties, especially from P. acuminata. P. suaveolens, 
itself a variety of P. maculata, has produced striped 
flowers that have been much admired. But it is possible 
that, with the exception of Drummond's, the beauty of 
the Phloxes has been over-vaunted. 
Picotee. — See Carnation. 

Pimpernel — AnayaUis arvensis. — A red-flowered native, 
which would be admired were it rare and difficult of cul- 
ture ; but it is only a weed. A. Monelli has an abun- 
dance of deep-blue flowers all summer long, but is tender 
in winter. Strike from cuttings, in heath-mould, undei 
a bell-glass. Other less-known Pimpernels deserve 
patronage; superba, Philipsi. grandijiora, and rosea. 
There are shrubby Pimpernels with double flowers : all 
greenhouse plants. 

Pink — Diantlius plumarius. — A florists' flower, in great 
variety ; is, however, more generally looked upon as a 
| border than a bedding plant : most acceptable in bouquets 
for its rich, yet delicate perfume. In any light warm 
garden-soil it only requires piping or lavering every 
second year to prevent it from getting weedy and shabby 
in foliage and inferior in bloom. — See Carnation. The 



100 



rnzE ixowee rabbet. 



China Pink, D. Si::e;:-s-:s. though mostly single, is iceed- 
ingly pretty, from its brilliant carrasts of colouring. 
Treat as a hardy annual, sowing m aentle bottom-heat, 
anil tricking cur wken i:s stature an:; :0c sees: a render 
expedient. It is really a biennial, with an extensible 
term of existence, like many ::aers. There:: re. any ~ery 
prepossessing variety (and there will be sure to be many 
in a large sowing) may be retain e ;1 :y aeracaing ana 
striking the shoots at the bottom ::" Hie flower Ing-stem. 

Polyanthus — 'Primula elatior, or vulgaris, var. cau- 
lescens. — This popular cottage- g a i i en fl : n e i i a probably 
the offspring of hybridizations between the Cowslip and 
its more showy relative, cae Oxlip. But the transition, 
in a cultivated state, from Primroses to Cowslips, from 
steinless flowers to those with stems, is so gradual, that 
it is not easy to define, first, which are species, and, 
secondly, which are varieties. Single Pclvanthnses 
only are Florists' flowers, and leaned worth the 
honour of having "properties" required of them: but 
many of the double varieties are very pretty, as well as 
those called the Hbse-in-hose kin as. and those with 
coloured calyces, which continue ornamental after the 
petal has disappeared. The genus Primula delights in 
leaf-mould, or mixtures of peat and sandy loam, kept 
scra:-~0ar raoisr. in half- ska dy situarkns. Iney mane 
gay borders or edgings at the foot of north-east or north- 
west walls, or under Lofty trees. In pots, unless all owed 
to bloom in the open air. their colours are less brilliant. 
Double kinds are increased by dividing the stooL The 
raising of seedling Polyanthuses is a very amusing task, 
in consequence of the immense variety obtained. Sow 
the seed, as soon as ripe (though it will keep pretty well 
for a year or two), on leaf-mould and sand, coverina it 
but slightly or not at all, either in shallow pans or in a 
preparatory bed. As soon as the plants are big enough 
to be handled, prick them out in the place where they are 
to flower, and water and shade till they have taken hold 
of the ground. Polyanthuses and Primroses are not 
fond of manure. — See Primrose. 

Potentilla. — The herbaceous species, whence many 



HEBBACEOUS ELOWEES. 



101 



varieties have been obtained, have very much the habit 
of Strawberry-plants, with flowers mostly in shades of 
pink, red, and crimson, of easy culture in ordinary soil, 
and useful on rockwork. Though pleasing, they are not 
of striking beauty. P. fruticosa, Shrubby Potentilla, 
makes a thick bush, about a yard high, producing bright- 
yellow flowers all summer long, and hardy in good soils 
and sunny situations. It seldom ripens seed, but supplies 
the defect by abundance of suckers. 

Primrose — Primula. — Double Primroses delight in 
the same soil and situation as Polyanthuses, but are 
somewhat less robust, being apt to damp off, go frost- 
bitten, or succumb under the repeated ravages of slugs. 
Somewhat disdained as florists' flowers, they still main- 
tain, deservedly, a certain horticultural and commercial 
value. They do well in a raised bed of leaf-mould, held 
together by brick-work or other support, and thus meet 
the admirer's eye half-way. There are white, yellow (at 
least two varieties), lilac, red (several varities), crimson 
(ditto) double Primroses, besides mottled flowers and 
those which contain combinations of tints. They occa- 
sionally indulge the caprice of sending up a stem, thereby 
raising their flowers to an elevation of several inches 
above the leaves. "When they execute this freak, they 
may be regarded as whole-coloured double Polyanthuses, 
Persons desirous of forming collections of double Prim- 
roses, are advised to procure them (both for excellence, 
variety, and cheapness) either from French or Belgian 
Planders. Propagate by root-division, and keep a con- 
stant eye on choice varieties, both for their health's sake 
and to prevent kidnapping. Good double Primroses are 
exceedingly apt to make themselves scarce. P. cortu- 
so'ides, from Siberia, is a charming little miniature, pro- 
ducing at the top of its stem a very large number of 
tiny, delicate lilac flowers, and requires the same treat- 
ment as the above, with the advantage that it may be 
raised from seed. As yet, not a common plant. The 
P. Sinensis, Chinese Primrose, is mainly useful for the 
winter decoration of living-apartments. It is nearly 
scentless, very gay, and lasts long in bloom. There are 



102 



THE PL OWE E G-ABDEX. 



white and various shades of pink varieties, with fringed 
and plain edgings, single and double. Chinese Primroses 
have not yet been made to render mu'ch service in the 
open ground. Though the roots will survive several years, 
they do not do much after their first season of flowering, 
and may be as well thrown away, to be replaced by 
seedlings annually raised, and pricked out in pots filled 
with a mixture of leaf-mould and sandy loam. There are 
also several Alpine species of Primula, which well deserve 
a nook in a shady border. 
JReed. — See Grass. 

JRocket. — The Double Yellow Socket, Brassica eruca, 
would be rather handsome were its petals not so fleeting. 
Grows in any good garden-soil, is increased by cuttings 
and root-division. The Double White or Garden Eocket, 
Hesjjeris matronalis, is really a noble flower, when well 
grown, which is not always. The first essential to have 
fine Sockets, is a rich, deep, strong loam, even inclining 
to clayey, like the best wheat-lands ; the next is, to shift 
the plant annually to a fresh spot, and divide the stools, 
which afibrd the means of propagation, as also do cuttings. 
The Garden Eocket varies in colour from light blush or 
Trench white, to light purple or violet. The scent of the 
spikes of flowers, somewhat resembling that of Stocks, 
is more powerful towards night ; whence its generic name, 
Hesjjeris. Though hardy, requires looking to. and resents 
neglect. 

St. John's Wort — Hypericum. — Yellow flowers,- very- 
similar in appearance in the different species, though 
varying in size. The large St. John's Wort (sometimes 
erroneously called Star of Bethlehem) has a very showy 
flower, almost filled with a silky tasselled tuft of stamens 
with red anthers, but of short duration. It spreads 
rapidly by its creeping stems, in light, dry. sunny soils, 
such as gravelly banks ; and if not wet at root, will 
bloom abundantly in spite of trees overhead. Tutsan is 
a hardy shrubby St. John's Wort, largely employed in 
shrubberies and pleasure-grounds by gardeners of the 
last century ; but it has now, for the most part, retired 



HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 



103 



from business, in consequence of the arrival of more 
attractive and equally serviceable new-comers. One or 
two Tutsan bushes may be permitted to help to form a 
screen of shrubs, in consideration of the days of auld 
lang syne. 

Salvia — Sage. — See " The Kitchen G-arden." — S. sjplen- 
dens forms a robust tuft that throws up spikes of scarlet 
flowers ; a showy plant, very useful in autumn ; will sur- 
vive our winters, but should not remain long on the 
same spot, and therefore is best divided at the root in 
autumn, potted, and kept under a frame during winter. 
S. patens resembles the above "in habit, with brilliant 
smalt-blue flowers, but must have winter protection. 
£. nemoralis, hardy, produces a long succession of small 
amethyst-purple flowers, which have a fine effect when 
grown in a large mass, or as a hedge, and which are 
so attractive to bees that the twiggy stems on which they 
grow sometimes are crowded with numerous species of the 
genus Apis : there are humble-bees, earth-bees, hive-bees, 
and others, — queens, drones, and workers, — all swarm- 
ing together amidst the flower-forest in search of honey. 
C. coccinea, tender in winter, makes a convenient pot- 
plant, being in the style of S. splendens, but smaller and 
slenderer. There are numerous other gaudy species, 
with blue, pink, white, yellow, red, violet, and two- 
coloured flowers, in all more than four hundred, the 
majority not hardy in England. They are raised from 
seeds, cuttings, and root- division ; like light rich soil, 
which they speedily exhaust ; and require frequent shift- 
ing in pots. Old stools of the more showy Salvias, win- 
tered in a frame, and planted out in May entire, will 
make magnificent tufts, and furnish a profusion of 
splendid bloom. 

Saxifrage. — See London Tuft, 

Scabious — Scabiosa atro-purptcrea, and others. Pin- 
cushion Flower. — "Well-known border plants, which retain 
their place mainly because we are used to them, and are 
accustomed to cut their honey-scented blooms to fill up 
the intervals in large bouquets. Sowing the seeds gives 



10-i 



THE ELOWEE GAEDE>". 



you fresh young plants which are not nice about soil ; 
bur the stool may often be divided into rooted shoots, 
which is a quicker process. 

Sedwm — Stone-crop, Ginger. "Wall- pepper, Love-chain, 
Gold-dust, &c. — The hardy species of this genus of suc- 
culents, mostly with yellow or white flowers, are service- 
able for rock-work and artificial ruins. The Orpine, S. 
Telephium. with dull purple flowers, and which attains a 
height of some eighteen inches, is planted along the roof* 
ridge of many cottages in Xormandy, where it looks like 
the bristles on the back of an angry boar. These hardy 
Sedums may be regarded rather as convenient materials 
in the hands of the landscape-gardener, than as real 
garden flowers. S. Sieboldii, amongst the greenhouse 
species, is an elegant plant to suspend in a pot or 
basket. 

Sfi a pel rag on . — See An tirrli in u m . 

Solomon? 8 Seal. — See Lily of the Ya.lley. 

Spiderwort — Tradescaniia Tirginica. — An old peren- 
nial border plant, with blue flowers varying to purple, in 
either case occasionally more or less double. Will grow 
almost anywhere, and is increased by dividing the stool. 
There are hothouse species, one of which, T. discolor, is 
mainly grown for the beauty of its leaves. 

Sweet William. — See London Tuff. 

TJirift — Armeria vulgaris — In French, Gazon d ; Es- 
pagne, Spanish Turf, or, more poetically. Gazon 
d ; Oiympe, Turf of Olympus. — The English name is 
derived from its thriftiness in towns and confined situa- 
tions, though its native home is on the grassy tops of cliffs 
whose base is washed by the waves, and whose summit 
is exposed to the sunshine and wind. Thrift is mainly 
employed for edgings, for which it is well adapted by its 
grasslike tufts of leaves and its numerous heads of pretty 
pink flowers. In the wild state even, the depth of their 
tint varies greatly ; in gardens, there is a variety with 
deep crimson flowers, which is much more ornamental 
than the common sort. Propagate by division of the 
stool. Tor neatness 5 sake, as soon as the flowers are 



HERBACEOUS ELOWEKS. 



105 



faded, clip their stems, not the herbage, close with a pair 
of shears. A. plantaginea. which abounds in dry and 
sandv districts in the interior of France, would equally 
answer the purpose of an edging in gardens. A. pseudo- 
Armeria, False-thrift, from Barbary, is a magnified species 
altogether on a larger scale, which produces several times 
a year heads of rosy flowers at the top of stems half a 
yard high. Must be treated as a greenhouse plant in 
winter. The Thrifts were Stat ices in the days of Lin- 
nseus. The modern Statices are mostly greenhouse 
plants, of sub-shrubby stature, with pleasing rather than 
handsome flowers, and, like their half-brother the Thrift, 
fond of a sea-side residence. 

Valerian. — Valeriana hortensis, and Tyrenaica, are 
common garden perennials, with white and red flowers 
respectively. The latter will grow and bloom weli on a 
wall or rock-work. They have no right to take higher 
rank than that of hardy filling-up stuff. V. cornucopia?, 
Horn-of-Plenty Valerian, from the JSTorth of Africa, is- 
a tall annual, which produces numerous red flowers, and 
is eaten as a salad, like the Maches (or Corn Salads, 
mentioned in our former volume), of which some people 
are very fond in winter and spring. Sow in light soil in 
spring, or better in autumn. 

Veronica Chama?dri/s, or Earth- Oak Veronica (from 
the 3hape of its leaves), — the pretty blue-flowered Ger- 
mander Speedwell of our hedges, — is the type of a large 
genus, which furnishes several easily-cultivated border- 
plants that supply a long succession of fleeting 
t flowers, on spikes, in shades mostly varying from white 
to deep blue. St.. Veronica was the compassionate 
female who, the legends tell us, offered a napkin to the 
Saviour on his way to the Cross. He used it to wipe 
the perspiration from his face, and his likeness remained 
miraculously imprinted thereon. The napkin itself is 
still occasionally exhibited to the public from a lofty 
balcony beneath the dome of St. Peter's, at Eome. The 
Veronicas are aptly named after a benevolent woman, as 
there is something graceful, feminine, and fragile in their 



106 



THE FLOWEB GARDEN. 



aspect. There are also greenhouse herbaceous species. 
Veronicas speciosa, Andersoni, salicifolia, and Lindley- 
ana, from New Holland, requiring sandy loam and 
heath-mould, stand the winter outdoors in such climates 
as that of Cornwall in England, and Brittany in France, 
where they make handsome low-growing evergreen shrubs. 
As they strike from cuttings without difficulty, it is easy 
to keep up a succession of young plants in pots, in which 
character they will render service by flowering during 
the dead months of the year. 

Violet — Viola odorata. — White, dull-red, and deep- 
blue sweet-scented varieties grow wild ; there are also 
double white, red, and dark-blue garden sorts. The 
Parma Violet has very light-blue double flowers, exceed- 
ingly pleasing, but hardly so highly scented as the for- 
mer ; will flower under a frame from October till spring. 
The Bruneau Violet has double flowers, with the outer 
petals dark blue, the inner ones mottled with white, red, 
and blue. Some Violets have a greater tendency than 
others to commence flowering in autumn, and to conti- 
nue, under favourable circumstances, throughout the 
winter. Such are the Russian and the Neapolitan Vio- 
lets, amongst the singles ; and the double red, and the 
Chainplatreux double white or Pour-Seasons Violet. 
Advantage is taken of these hybernal bloomers by plant- 
ing them in frames like cucumber-frames, on a bed of 
soil composed of leaf-mould, calcareous earth, and allu- 
vial loam. Continued crops of violets, for bouquets, are 
thus obtained, and they form a profitable branch of mar- 
ket-gardening in Prance. Violets are increased fast by % 
runners and root-division. The double kinds are some- 
times used as edgings, but they come into bloom some- 
what later than singles. The Tree Violet is regarded as 
a woody-stemmed species, from the Canaries ; but it 
may be questioned whether its erect character be not as 
much an artificial circumstance as the shrub-like shape 
of Tree Mignonnette, which is nothing but the result of 
training an upright stem to a stick, and pinching off the 
lower shoots. Besides the Sweet Violet and the Heart's 



SHRUBBY SUB-SHRUBBY ELOPERS. 107 

Ease, there are numerous other species, some of which 
are lively ornaments to a rock-work or the top of a wall, 
or will brighten up the barrenness of a sandy waste. 

Water Lily — Nymphma alba, the White, and Nupliar 
luteum, the Yellow ; the former much the handsomest. — 
Useful in ponds with a muddy bottom,, where gold-fish, 
fresh- water tortoises, &c, are kept. Procure a good 
large stout rhizoma at the end of summer, and sink it in 
its place by a stone tied to it. The Yellow Water Lily 
is apt to increase to a troublesome extent ; so beware 
how you introduce it to your artificial lake. There are 
Chinese Water Lilies, red and blue, whose winters at 
home are severer than with us, and yet they cannot get 
through ours. It is the defective summer heat which 
renders them thus tender. 

Willow Herb. — A large genus, many of whose species, 
with gay red flowers, grow wild in moist spots. The 
French Willow Herb, E. spicatum, is a tall perennial, 
useful for screens and shrubbery-skirts, with purplish- 
red flowers and blue anthers. Hardy ; increases so fast 
at root as to become a nuisance, if you let it. 

SHRUBBY A> T D SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 

There is so gradual a transition from herbs to shrubs, 
and from shrubs to trees, that the terms " sub- shrubby 
plants" and " suffruticose trees" have been invented, 
to designate those individuals which occupy intermediate 
positions in the long series of the vegetable kingdom. If, 
therefore, the reader should feel inclined to cavil at 
the Wallflower's being included amongst the Shrubby 
Flowers, that climbers like the Clematis and the Passion- 
flower are made to enter into the same list, or that the 
Arbutus and the Elder rank with Flowering Trees in the 
present volume, — he will kindly remember that there is 
no room here to discuss nice botanical distinctions, but 
simply to pass in compact review the most desirable 
occupants of a flower-garden. 

Althcea frutex, or Hibiscus Syriacus, often called 



108 



THE FLOWEB GrAEDE2T. 



simply Frutex in popular gardening language. — A hardy 
shrub, requiring, however, a longer and hotter summer 
than our own, producing abundance of mallow-like flowers 
from August till cold weather sets in, in single and semi- 
double varieties, in various shades and combinations of 
white, pink, crimson, and purple. In Lombardy, hedges 
are made of the Shrubby Althaea, which are gay with a 
long succession of bloom. In England, it would be 
worth while to forward the handsomest kinds in tubs in 
a greenhouse, to be placed in the pleasure-ground at 
midsummer, as Orange-trees and Pomegranates are in the 
Parisian gardens. The Althaea f rut ex grows slowly, and 
lives to a considerable age : good loamy soil suits it best. 
Sow the seeds in boxes, or in a frame, in spring ; prick 
out the young plants in separate pots, and keep them in 
the greenhouse in winter, for the first two or three years. 
Pavourite kinds may be continued and multiplied by 
grafting. The plants are also made to serve as stocks 
to receive scions of the very beautiful Chinese Hibis- 
cuses, which, however, appertain to the greenhouse and 
the hothouse. The affinity between the Althaeas and the 
Hibiscuses is so close, that a few of the latter, somewhat 
more hardy, may be mentioned here. They are remark- 
able for their vigorous habit of growth, and their large 
flowers, which make a fine show in September. They 
like a light, rich, deep soil, a rather shady situation, and 
require to be mulched and protected with litter over the 
crown of their root in frosty weather. They rarely ripen 
their seed, and do not bear root-division well, but must 
be raised from imported seed, H. pahistris, Marsh H., 
from North America, should be abundantly watered in 
summer. II roseus, Eosy H., a native of the marshes 
of the Landes of Prance. H. militarise with deep-red 
flowers, from North America. S. speciosus, from Caro- 
lina, is safest in a greenhouse during winter. The above 
succeed against a wall in maritime or insular situations^ 
like Ireland or Cornwall. 

American Allspice — Colicanthus fioridus — A mis- 
nomer, in respect to the English name, which is betrayed 



shrubby a:st> stb- shrubby flowers. 109 



by the prefix "American." — The plant has no relation- 
ship with spice-bearing trees. The French name it 
Arbre aux Anemones, Anemone-tree; for its reddish- 
brown flowers are not dissimilar, in shape, to double 
Anemones. Unlike them, they exhale an odour which 
resembles melon and ripe apple combined. It is a twiggy 
shrub, with deciduous foliage, suitable for verandahs or 
rustic porticos, thriving in a mixture of light loam and 
heath-mould, and worthy of a warm sheltered corner. 
Propagate by suckers, or by layers half-cut through 
behind a joint, which should remain in the ground a 
couple of years. There are varieties of this Anemone- 
tree. C. occidentalism of Dr. Lindley, is a robuster 
shrub, with broader leaves, larger brick-red flowers, 
hardier than the preceding, and less nice as to soil and 
aspect. 

Azalea. — A large and beautiful genus, which must be 
treated as what are called American plants, i.e.. grown in 
heath-mould, with a greater or less admixture of sandy 
loam, in somewhat shady and sheltered situations, where 
they are never very moist nor very dry. They bear trans- 
planting (with the ball of earth attached to their roots) 
and forcing well. In the American bed in the open 
garden, the hardy species are valuable for their early 
blooming in spring, and their handsome bouquets of 
brilliant flowers. They have the defect of being rather 
thin and naked, running up bare and spindle-shanked, 
even if they did not put forth their flowers, in various 
shades of yellow, white, and red, before the full develop- 
ment of their leaves. They are propagated by offsets, 
by layering, and grafting. From seeds, which are hybri- 
dized with facility, numerous varieties are obtainable. 
Hardy species of Azalea are viscosa, glauca, nucliflora, 
and calendirfacea, all from North America. A. Pontica, 
with yellow blossoms, comes from the Caucasus. All 
out-door American plants are best grown in a compart- 
ment of the garden that is specially devoted to them. 

The Chinese Azaleas are greenhouse plants. Their 
extreme beauty is sufficiently attested by a reference to 



110 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



the Metropolitan Horticultural Shows. For their varie- 
ties, the reader is referred to the nurserymen, especially 
as new ones are constantly coming out. Even an imper- 
fect list of those now grown would fill several of these 
pages. 

Berberry. — The Common Berberis vulgaris is useful 
to stop a gap in a shrubbery, on account of its curious 
flowers, with their irritable stamens (which will move 
if you tickle them with a pin or a bristle), followed 
by bunches of scarlet fruit. It looks well as a standard 
with weeping branches. Our gardens have of late made 
a valuable acquisition in the Evergreen Holly-leaved 
Berberry, B. (or Malionia) aguifolium and B. pinnata, 
both easily raised from suckers and seeds, and natives of 
Oregon and California. 

Bignonia capreolata — Tendrilled Trumpet-flower — is 
the only one of its genus which can be left all the year 
round in the open ground. At the foot of a south wall, 
with a covering of litter at foot in winter, and plenty of 
room to spread about, it will be covered from midsummer 
to autumn with a profusion of tubular tawny-red flowers. 
Strikes easily from cuttings. 

Birthwort — Aristolocliia. — A genus of climbers, with 
flowers in general not remarkable for beauty. A. SipTio 
has enormous heart-shaped leaves, which adapt it for 
covering walls and trellis- work with a thick mantle of 
green during summer. This species, as well as iomen- 
tosa and ArJcansa, are hardy in England. Propagate 
most surely by layers half-divided behind an eye. A. 
labiosa has a very large whitish flower blotched with blue- 
black, whose odour is so offensive as almost to prohibit 
its cultivation. The genus is medicinal, or rather 
poisonous. Both its English and its botanical names 
have reference to its effects on the human system, which 
have sometimes been applied to evil purposes. Hence, 
some gardeners are unwilling to avail themselves of the 
aid which its striking foliage affords. 

Bladder Senna — Colutea arloreseens. — Fitter for the 
shrubbery than the garden proper, and the delight of 



SHRTBBY AXD ST7B-SHETBBY PLOWEES. Ill 



children, who amuse themselves with squeezing and 
bursting the bladder-like seed-vessels that succeed its 
yellow flowers. Grows freely in any soil, preferring cal- 
careous earth, from suckers or seeds. C. cruenta is a 
prettier and smaller species. 

Bramble. — There is a double white-flowered variety of 
the common Bramble, Rubies fruticosus, which produces, 
from July to autumn, bunches of blossoms like miniature 
roses. It likes rather a damp soil, and is propagated by 
cuttings, or better by suckers. The Eubus genus flowers 
on the wood of the previous year, which should be cut 
out afterwards like raspberry-canes, to make room for 
new. There is also a double pink variety, which was 
found wild, in 1817, near Clion, in the department of 
Indre, Prance. Double flowers of other genera are 
occasionally met with wild, The common Ladies' Smock, 
or Cuckoo-flower, is not rarely found wild and double 
in meadows. B. odoratus, the Canada, or Flowering 
Raspberry, is useful in the shrubbery and in towns, for 
its large foliage, its late and rosy flowers, and its thrifti- 
ness in shade. Propagate by the rhizomatous runners, 
and cut out the old wood in spring. There is a white- 
flowered variety. 

Broom. — The Common Broom, Genista scoparia, were 
it rarer, would be highly esteemed as an ornamental 
shrub, and may be so employed even as it is. Our Plan- 
tagenet dynasty took their name from the Blanta 
Genista. The Spanish, or White-flowered Broom, Spar- 
Hum album, or Cytisus allies, is taller and tenderer than 
the above, requires a light dry soil, and is propagated by 
seeds, or by grafting on the common Laburnum, which 
will serve as a stock for most of the hardy ornamental 
Brooms. 

Brugmansia. — B. suaveolens, or Datura arbor ea^ is a 
noble suffruticose Peruvian tree, unfortunately too ten- 
der to stand our winters ; and B. sanguined has hitherto 
been confined to our conservatories. But as new facts 
in gardening are as valuable as new cases in medicine, 
Mr, Robert Do wring's communication is quoted from the 



112 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Gardener's Chronicle for Jan. 12, 1856 : — " A noble 
specimen of JBr ugmansia sanguinea grows in the pleasure- 
grounds adjoining Crom Castle, the seat of the Earl of 
Erne, county Fermanagh, Ireland. It was planted in 
a conservatory in May, 1845, and was then about three 
feet high. Notwithstanding severe "annual pruning, it 
grew too large in a few years, and was considered scarcely 
worthy of a place under glass. In May, 1851, I planted 
it out in the open ground, having the previous autumn 
cut its roots three feet from the stem, and ever since it 
has attracted the attention and been universally admired 
by the numerous visitors to this beautiful demesne. At 
the request of some ladies on a visit here, I measured the 
plant last August ; it was then 14 feet 6 inches high, 
girthed at the ground 2 feet 6 inches, and covered an 
area of 165 square feet. At that time it was really a 
beautiful plant, completely covered with flowers and 
foliage to the surface of the ground ; I then counted 180 
flowers fully expanded, with twice that number ready to 
open. A gentleman told me, a few days afterwards, that 
he had counted above 200 open on it. It would be diffi- 
cult to calculate the number it produced last summer ; 
but I would say at least some thousands, as there was a 
regular succession from the beginning of summer, and it 
has now, January 5th, many open on it, It was planted 
in a mixed soil, composed of loam, bog-earth, a good por- 
tion of charred matter, rotten dung, and leaves — perfect 
drainage of course being secured. As I learned from 
experience that Brugmansia will not stand our winters 
without protection, ever since it was planted in the open 
ground I each year, in October, covered it by sticking 
poles in the ground, 5 inches apart, the spaces between 
being stuffed tight with grassy moss raked from an 
adjoining wood. A span roof is then put on, one side 
of which is thatched, the other covered with sashes, 
which has an additional covering in long-continued frost. 
To make all sure, I put inside a few cast-metal pipes, 
connected with a stove ; but even last winter, although 
very severe, they were seldom used, as it requires a very 



SHBUBBY AND SUB- SHRUBBY FLOWEBS. 113 



great frost to penetrate through moss a few inches thick. 
At the same time, arrangement for free ventilation is 
provided. I take the protection gradually away in March 
and April, and altogether in May. It may be considered 
that the plant is not worthy the trouble thus bestowed 
on it ; but few could see it in summer and make that 
remark. The branches are shortened in before covering, 
or it might have been twice as tall as it now is. There 
are many free-flowering plants, commonly occupants of 
the greenhouse, which I think would succeed quite as well 
planted out as the Brugmansia, large specimens of which 
would add a new and interesting feature to our pleasure- 
grounds. I propose planting out a few next May, with 
a view to their remaining out through the winter, and 
getting glass cases made (so that they can be easily 
increased in size at pleasure and removed in spring) for 
their protection." 

Buddlea globosa. — A Peruvian shrub, with leaves 
which ought to be evergreen, and round heads of orange- 
tawny flowers. May be trained against a wall ; but in 
sheltered situations will survive our winters in the open 
shrubbery, under the shelter of lofty trees, in light well- 
drained soil. Its long oval leaves, very light under- 
neath, and its sweet-smelling bullets of deep-yellow 
florets, give it a certain exotic charm. Multiply by cut- 
tings and suckers, which keep in a pot, in a cool frame, 
the first two or three winters. When planted out, 
mulching at the roots is a wise precaution. B. Mada- 
gascariensis, also with odoriferous yellow flowers, must 
winter in the greenhouse. B. Lindleyana, from China, 
with red and purple flowers, is hardier, and may at least 
be ventured to cover a sunny wail. 

Camellia Japonica. — Beautiful evergreen shrubs flower- 
ing in spring, and forming their flower-buds so early in 
winter, as to render their out-door culture with us 
extremely hazardous, although success is attained in a 
few favoured spots in Cornwall, with the aid of partial 
protection. On this account, Camellias will live in many 
situations where they will rarely flower. In a border 

i 



114 



THE ELOWEB GARDEN. 



backed by a high wall, or trained against the wall itself, 
it will not be difficult to shelter them and to keep frost 
from their roots by a covering of litter. The variegated 
red is one of the hardiest ; but the original single red 
Camellia, on which the double varieties are mostly in- 
arched, raised from seed, makes a splendid bush where it 
can flower in the open air. In truth, however, the place 
of Camellias, in the United Kingdom, is in conservatories 
and living- apartments. They are house-plants, and as 
such they must be considered, in spite of their occasional 
and rare presence in the flower-garden : their culture 
constitutes a peculiar and elaborate branch of greenhouse 
gardening ; and their cut blooms form a considerable 
item in the returns of nurserymen during winter and 
spring in general, and at the periods of the Paris and 
London seasons especially. 

Chinese JPceony. — See JBoeony, in the last section. 

Christ's Thorn — Wiamnus JPaliurus. — A shrub whose 
branches are furnished, w T hen vigorous, with several series 
of thorns, some straight like pins, and others bent like 
fish-hooks. The foliage has a certain elegance, from the 
regularity with which the small leaves are disposed along 
the twigs. The small yellow flowers are inconspicuous, 
while the berries have somewhat the shape of a low- 
crowned broad-brimmed hat. Its chief interest lies in 
being pointed out by the ancient tradition of the Roman 
Catholic Church as at least one of the plants which com- 
posed the Saviour's crown of thorns. The fact is far from 
improbable, as the Christ's Thorn is a native of Syria. 
In Italy it makes formidable hedges, through w T hich vine- 
yard-pilferers can hardly pass without leaving a portion 
of their garments, and perhaps sundry bits of skin and 
drops of blood, behind them. To grow vigorously, it 
requires a long hot summer. Here, it may be /kept alive 
in a sunny nook, in a weak and starveling condition, 
hardly recognizable by those who have seen it in the 
South of Europe. 

Cistus ladaniferus, — the Grum Cistus, — with long, 
lanceolate, viscous leaves, and large white flowers with a 
dark red centre, is one of the handsomest shrubs we have. 



SHRUBBY A^D SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 



115 



There are other species, with yellow, red, and purple 
flowers, which, though individually ephemeral, follow each 
other in long and constant succession during the finest 
summer months. Some of our native trailing species 
make exceedingly elegant rock-plants. The Cistuses are 
of various degrees of hardiness, but all like a warm, well- 
drained, chalky soil. Multiply by suckers, cuttings, and 
seeds sown on a hotbed in spring. 
Clematis. — See Virgin's Bower. 

Clianthus puniceus. — A very handsome half-creeping 
shrub, with pinna-ted leaves, from j\ T ew Zealand. It is 
usually kept in pots, in a greenhouse, in a mixture of 
loam and rotten hotbed ; but will stand the winter trained 
against a wall (especially near the sea), with the protec- 
tion of thick mulching and matting in winter. There, its 
bunches of large pea-like scarlet blossoms are really 
splendid. Increase by cuttings and suckers. 

Coronilla glauca. — A pretty, yellow-flowered, papilion- 
aceous pot-shrub, with sea-green pinnated leaves, useful 
for parlour-windows, because its plum-scented blossoms 
are gay throughout the winter. Native of the shores of 
the Mediterranean ; is increased by seeds, cuttings, and 
layers. 0. Emerus is hardier and more robust, with red 
flower-buds and yellow open flowers. It is sometimes used 
to make clipped fences, where the resistance of thorns is 
not required. If shorn in spring, will flower in autuinn. 

Cytisus Laburnum, or False Ebony, from its handsome 
dark heart-wood. — Almost a tree; well known for its 
bunches of drooping golden blossoms in spring. Hardy, 
vigorous, and increased abundantly by seed ; is used as a 
stock whereon to graft other more delicate Cytisuses and 
allied species ; amongst which are G. nigricans, sessili- 
folius, capitatus, Austriacus purpureus (with pinky- 
violet flowers), and alius, Spartium album, or Spanish 
Eroom. On one of the grass-plots in Kew Gardens 
there grows a curiosity interesting to hybridists, — a 
Laburnum between Cytisus nigricans and C. Laburnum. 
The plant has put forth one branch of nigricans and one 
of Lalumum ; the rest is hybrid. 



116 



THE FLOWEB GrABBEK. 



Daphne. — D. Mezereon is one of our earliest and most 
welcome spring flowers, acceptable to early wandering 
bees. The French may well call it Bois-Gen'til, or Pretty 
Wood. Grow it in rich soil, to make it abundantly 
twiggy, and consequently flowery. Propagate by sowing 
the berries. The Mezereon, ordinarily pinky-lilac, has 
white-blossomed and also deep-crimson varieties. The 
* Wood or Spurge Laurel, D. Laureola, is a hardy ever- 
green shrub, with green sweet-scented flowers. D. Fontica 
is similar in habit, but is tenderer. Several others, as 
D. odor a, a greenhouse shrub, are multiplied by grafting 
on D. Laureola. An interesting noyelty is Fortune's 
Daphne, D. Fortunei, found by that enterprising gentle- 
man in the north of China. It has deciduous leaves, 
and little terminal tufts of purple-lilac flowers, which 
appear before the foliage. Grow it in a mixture of heath- 
mould and sandy loam, and try if it will not prove hardy 
in the unsheltered bed. 

Deutzia gracilis, from Japan. — A favourite pot-plant, 
because it forces well, and is covered with an abundance 
of pure white flowers in small bunches. People who see 
it in that state in February scarcely suspect that it may 
be hardy out of doors. D. scabra, on a somewhat larger 
scale, is a little like a miniature Syringa, with white 
powerfully-scented blossoms. There are also D. corymbosa 
and canescens. Deutzias (which merit encouragement) 
strike readily from cuttings under a bell-glass ; but if 
plants which have been forced in spring be turned out 
of their pots in early summer, and planted with their 
balls rather deep in the open ground, they will form 
several well-rooted suckers, which will make strong plants 
the following season. 

Furze (Double) — TJleoc Furopceus — makes a handsome 
single bush in the midst a grass-plot, glittering in spring 
like a complete mass of golden flowers. Requires well- 
drained sandy soil ; and, being of slow growth, is best 
purchased of nurserymen, who strike it from tiny cuttings 
under bell-glasses. Double flowers are not common 
amongst leguminous plants. Severe frost kills Furze, 



SHRUBBY AZNTD STTB-SHETTBBY TL0WEE3. 117 

either entirely, or more commonly down to the ground, 
reducing it to the condition of an herbaceous plant. 
Hence, its greater luxuriance near the sea. An old- 
established Double Furze well merits a little protection, 
when unusually hard weather threatens to destroy it. 

Fuschia. — Flowering shrubs, from the central and 
southern regions of America, and from New Zealand, 
with pendent flowers, combining grace of form with the 
charm of rich colouring. The first arrivals, from the end 
of the eighteenth century, were shrubby, twiggy plants, 
with a certain degree of hardiness ; such as F glolosa, 
virgata, coccinea, &c. ; but in 1837 <^ame F. Jidgens. of 
quite a different character, with larger, tenderer leaves, 
longer blossoms produced in terminal clusters, and more 
delicate constitution. This was soon followed by corym- 
biflora, cordifolia, and serratifolia, from which, amongst 
themselves and with the older sorts, very numerous 
hybrids have been obtained, and are still being obtained 
anew every season. The list of beautiful varieties now 
on record must amount to several hundreds. F. splendens 
and its nearest relatives, with the offspring which have 
originated from them, are scarcely fitted for the open 
border, as their large leaves and fragile stems render 
them the victims of gusts of wind, besides requiring a 
more greenhouse-like climate than even that of our most 
genial summers. The twiggy Fuschias may be regarded 
as herbaceous plants in the inland counties of England : 
many of them stand the winter, and form strong stools : 
although the frost may cut them down to the root, they 
shoot and flower well the following summer. In the 
south, and by the sea, they will form permanent bushes 
or coverings for walls. They are better suited to make 
single, than bedding plants ; their habit is so decidedly 
different, as to give them the look of "a very odd lot " 
when collected in varieties to make masses in the parterre. 
Any light rich mould suits them, with no stint of water, 
or the weakest possible" liquid manure, during their period 
of growth. They strike readily from cuttings under a 
hand-light. They are good plants for the amateur to 



118 



THE . FLOWEH GAEDE^. 



amuse himself with, by hybridizing and raising new 
varieties ; as the parts of fructification are easily come- 
at-able, they seed freely, and the result has not to be 
waited for long. 

Guelder Rose — Snowball-tree — Viburnum Opulus — is 
remarkable for the globular heads, consisting entirely of 
the white sterile blossoms, which, in the wild state, grow 
around the fertile ones. In this phase, it is called the 
Double Gruelder Rose, and produces none of the bright 
crimson berries which are so great an ornament to the 
original shrub, and are so welcome to birds in hard 
winters. Flourishes in a deep moist soil ; is easily pro- 
pagated by cuttings, layers, and suckers. V. edule, from 
South America, produces bright-red eatable fruit; how nice 
it is, the writer cannot say. V. Tinus, the Laurustinus, 
is a deservedly popular evergreen, flowering in winter ; 
but bears slight frosts better than severe ones. In the 
south of France it attains the height of twenty feet and 
more. There are several varieties. Propagate by layers, 
but better buy of nurserymen. V. odoratissimum is a 
sweet-scented greenhouse shrub, which bears the winters 
of Cornwall and Brittany. V. Lantana, the Wayfaring 
Tree, with black berries and cottony heart-shaped leaves, 
is hardy ; so is V. Lentago from North America. Other 
species are, V. cotinifoliwn, prunifolium, pyrifolium, 
nudum, plicatum (hardy, from China), macrocephalum 
(ditto, sent by Fortune, — has heads of white flowers at 
least as big as Hydrangeas), cylindricum, and ame- 
thystinum. 

Heath — JErica. — A family, rather than a genus, of low, 
twiggy, tufted shrubs, with curious and beautiful flowers, 
many of which look as if they were moulded in wax or 
blown in glass, and are one of the choicest ornaments 
of our Grand Horticultural Exhibitions. It is a pity 
that by far the great majority, from the Cape, will not 
stand our winters. In pots, Heaths must have heath- 
mould of course; be kept never too wet nor too dry, 
in a house by themselves, exposed to no sudden changes 
or extremes of temperature, and have the gardener's 



SHRUBBY AXD SUB-SHRUBBY FLO WEBS. 



119 



daily, almost hourly attention. Hence, line exotic spe- 
cimens are good testimonials to horticultural skill. All 
the British Heaths, of which there are six or seven, 
including varieties, deserve a place in the American bed. 
The prettiest are, E. Tetralicc, with pink waxy flowers, 
fond of a moister situation than the others, and the 
Cornish Heath, red, with a white variety. E. mediter- 
o*anea is hardy, as is E. carnea, very like the former, and 
producing abundance of pink and black blossoms in the 
depth of winter. Heaths are mostly struck from very 
small cuttings of the terminal shoots, in sand, under a 
bell-glass ; but success is only attained by great care ; 
and it takes some time to raise a plant of any respectable 
size. It is therefore better to purchase of nurserymen 
who make the culture of Heaths their business, a visit 
to whose garden is an instructive lesson, and whose lists 
comprise all that is new, as well as all that is old and of 
good repute. Waterer and Godfrey, of Woking, Surrey, 
amongst others, are famous for their Heaths ; but the 
fate of most Heaths in pots, purchased as window-plants 
without forethought as to their ultimate destiny, is to 
perish shortly after their first campaign. 

Hibiscus — See Althcsa. — The Chinese Hibiscus, H. 
Rosa Sinensis, is a tall shrub with crimson hollyhock- 
like flowers, which are used in China to black slioes with ! 
From it have been raised many beautiful single and 
double varieties, white, yellow, and divers shades of red. 
They all require a moist-atmosphered hothouse. 

Solly — Ilex Aquifolium. — A handsome native ever- 
green, which has produced varieties of a great diversity of 
foliage, — marginated, mottled, and extra-prickly, — which 
are increased by grafting on the common sort. In old 
trees, the upper leaves on the top branches are destitute 
of prickles at the edges. By grafting, an entire plant of 
this kind may be raised. Hollies do best in a light loam, 
and though they will live in very poor soil, they show 
their appreciation of a good one by their more luxuriant 
and fuller growth. The common species is raised from 
its berries, which should be laid in a heap to rot during 



120 



THE TLOWEB GARDEN". 



winter. The growth of the seedlings is somewhat slow : 
these will furnish stocks for grafting and budding, as 
well as plants for forming hedges. A holly hedge is so 
effectual, durable, handsome, and hardy, that though it 
requires great patience to form, repays all the care that 
is bestowed on it. The young plants from a nursery 
(carefully lifted, without injuring their roots) should be 
planted in October, attentively watered and weeded for 
the first few years, and kept clear of everything that 
can overshadow or choke them. The Broad-leaved Holly, 
I. latifolia, a hardy evergreen from Japan, is propagated 
by grafting on the common Holly, as is also I. opaca, and 
several others. Admirers of the genus will find a tole- 
rably long list of species, some of which must pass the 
winter in a greenhouse. 

Honey suclde — Lonicera. — Charming sweet-scented 
climbers and erect shrubs, which are almost all hardy with 
us. They have also the advantage of leafing early. They 
thrive in a sound, deep, light loam, with a half-shady 
exposure, and are consequently nseful for covering walls 
and trellises that face the east or the west, even with a 
few points to the north. They are readily increased by 
seed from their berries, by cuttings, layers, and rooted 
suckers. The erect Loniceras will serve for hedges where 
great strength of fencing is not required. They are L. Tctr- 
tarica, Tartarian H. ; L. Pyrenaica, Pyrenean H., a 
pretty shrub, but more infested with aphides than the 
others ; L. Alpigena, with pink flowers, and berries as big 
as little cherries ; L. Iherica, resembling the former, but 
with pubescent leaves ; L. Xylosieum, the Ply Honey- 
suckle ; L. bracJiypoda, with twin odoriferous flowers, a 
greenhouse plant; and L. Ledebourii, from the Altai, 
hardy, with orange flowers and black berries. Climbing 
species are L. Caprifolium, the Common Honeysuckle ; 
L. Utrusca, a favourite with gardeners, as being almost a 
perpetual bloomer ; L. implexa, from Majorca and Mi- 
norca, with slenderer stems and of humbler growth ; L. 
parviflora, Little-flowered H., from Canada ; L. flava, 
Yellow-flowered H. ? from JN". America, delicate and rare ; 



SHSrBEY A]S'D STTB-SHBTTBBY PLOWEES. 121 



X>. serrqiervirens, Evergreen or Trumpet H. ; L. pilosa, 
tender; L. pubescens, like the former; L. Perichjmenum, 
the exquisitely-perfumed native of our woods; L. confusa, 
whose flowers change from white to yellow, — whence its 
Japanese name Nin-Too, or the Gold and Silver Flower ; 
and L. Sinensis, another sweet-scented and very desir- 
able species. 

Hydrangea Hortensia — the Garden Hydrangea, from 
Japan — does best out-doors, in England, near the sea, 
where the winters are mild and the climate moist. In 
the Channel Islands, and in- ZS'ormandy, there are Hy- 
drangeas eight feet high, or more, with balls of flowers 
bigger than a man's head. Those balls are composed of 
sterile florets, exactly like the snowball on the Double 
Guelder Rose. The Hydrangea likes a light soil con-' 
taining a large proportion of sand. The normal colour 
of the blooms is pink, after having been green in their 
immature state ; but they change to blue when grown in 
certain soils, which can only be indicated with certainty 
after experiment ; some peats, and also some loams, 
prove effectual to produce the charaseleon-like change, 
while others do not. It probably depends on the pre- 
sence of iron, in some peculiar combination. The Hy- 
drangea strikes freely from cuttings ; the plants require 
abundance of water. In pots, the soil should be annually 
renewed. In the open garden, a sheaf of loose straw 
scattered loosely over a bush will make a good protec- 
tion, as it admits air at the same time that it keeps ofT 
hoar-frost and ice from the tips of the shoots. Other 
species are, H. arlorescens, nivea, quercifolia, Japonica, 
involucrata ; the last very pretty, requiring the same treat- 
ment as Hortensia. as also does H. pulescens, with large 
handsome leaves, whose petioles and veins are brilliant red. 

Jessamine — Jasmmum officinale — is the favourite 
white-flowered, sweet-scented climber, so useful for 
covering arbours and verandahs ; may be also trained to 
make a handsome standard in a pot. Propagate by cut- 
tings and layers. J". Sambac, celebrated for the fragrance 
it exhales at night, must be grown in a hothouse. J, 



122 



IHI riOWEB GASBS3T. 



revolutum. the Yellow Jessamine, has bright eiiaen 
flowers, and de es ies: trained again 5 : a wail The "Whi- 
ter Jessamine. J. nu-diflorum. is another of the li-ely 
things we owe to Mr. Fortune. Its multitudinous dear 
yellow blossoms appear before the leaves, in January or 
February, and it is hardy enough :; he lei: int-aiirs 
against a wall, and may even ::;T r thai :: has stih 
greater powers of endurance. In pots. :: makes ;. m:st 
elegant parlour shrub, with the additional recommenda- 
tion that it is scentless. :r nearly so. It may he ques- 
tioned whether there are an~ rrulv scentless l. ewers : i: 
is certain the: there are paraaixical flowers, which really 
exhale a powerful earn:. :na: in some cases is extremely 
offensive to the human system, in others jiaimlMi , 
although the odour itself as a smell, is imperceptible 
to ordinary nasal nerves. A correspondent :: the ila 
deners Chronic' e (Jan. 6th j writes thus: — "This beau- 
tiful Jasmine is certainly a ere at aecyaisitiin t: tie 
flower-garden, inasmuch as it pr: duces its cheerful h right- 
yellow flowers during autumn and winter, and : mrlnnes 
blooming for several months in succession. It is also 
very useful for cutting for bouquets, and the sprigs will 
last in water a long time. It maybe grown in any com- 
mon light s en : and no one fond of a garden ought to be 
without it. for it does not take up much room. It is 
best planted against a wail, and kept trained. It is a 
free- growing plant, when it gets established, and quite 
hardy. We have a specimen which has been planted 
about five years. It is against a south wall about ten 
feet high, and is covered with charming yellow flowers 
from bottom to top. It has been in this condition from 
the beginning if Is ov ember, ana appears likely to con- 
tinue so for a long time to come. When grown in this 
way. it is truly a splendid object.' The way we have 
treated it is as follows: — It was planted in: in the 



a good growth, a: 
ering. it was pn 



SHRUBBY AKD SUB-SHRUBBY YL0WEE3. 123 



two eyes, and keeping the leading shoots trained up the 
wall till they attained the height that was wanted. It 
has been pruned every year since. Of course, it should 
not be cut in summer, for it blossoms on the young 
wood, and the longer the shoots the more bloom you get. 
It is easily increased by cuttings or layers. In the 
former case, take part-ripened wood and place it in a pot 
in light soil and sand mixed together ; afterwards, put 
them in a warm frame till they are rooted, and then pot 
them afresh in small pots. Set them in the frame again, 
till they are rooted ; then move them to a cooler place 
till spring, when they may be turned out against a 
wall, and treated as recommended above." In short, 
the Winter Jessamine only requires to be better known 
to become a popular favourite ; and the purchase-money 
of this Book will be well laid out, if it only induces the 
purchaser subsequently to buy a plant or two of Jasmi- 
num nudiflorum. Other species deserving of notice are 
J. odoratissimum, yellow flowers, greenhouse culture; 
J. ckrysanthum, hardy, evergreen, yellow, scentless ; and 
J. grandiflorum. white, in greenhouse, sweet-scented ; 
may be cleft-grafted on J. officinale. 

Kalmia. — American shrubs, with very curious and 
elegant flowers, requiring the same treatment as Aza- 
leas. The honey, of some species at least, is said to be 
poisonous. 

Laburnum. — See Cytisus. Purple Laburnum. — See 
Tflstaria. 
Laur ust in us. — See Yibu rn u m . 

Lavender — Lavandula sjpica (whose flowers are in 
request by distillers, perfumers, and housekeepers who 
are careful over their linen) — is propagated by cuttings, 
in spring, struck under a hand-glass. See " The Kitchen 
Garden." L. Stcechas is tenderer, and not worth having 
trouble bestowed upon it; as are likewise Lavenders 
latifolia and pinnatijlda. They grow wild on the shores 
of the Mediterranean. 

Lemon and Orange Trees — Citrus — grow out-doors 
against a wall in a few favoured spots in Cornwall and 



124 



THE ELOWER GARDEN. 



Devonshire. Large Orange-trees, in cubical boxes ? 
sometimes as much as three or four hundred years old, 
wintered in an orangery, and placed in conspicuous posi- 
tions in the pleasure-ground during summer, form a 
striking feature in Continental gardening. They belong 
exclusively to the grand style of the Art, and demand 
considerable labour for their removal to and fro, and 
constant care in pruning and attendance. Those who 
have seen the Orange-trees in the gardens of the 
Tuileries and the Luxembourg at Paris will not easily 
forget their effect. The best Prench gardening-books 
should be consulted by those who desire to learn full 
details of their treatment. 

Lilac — Byringa vulgaris. — The common species has a, 
pure white variety of less robust habit and growth. The 
Trench have raised and cultivate several others, one of 
which has leaves mottled with white and yellow. S. JPer- 
sica, the Persian Lilac, is a smaller and slenderer shrub, 
with looser, more drooping heads of flowers, more aro- 
matically perfumed. This also has a white variety ; and 
another, S. Sangeana, is highly esteemed. The Persian 
Lilac forces well, both as pot-plants and to furnish cut 
flowers for bouquets. Less known Lilacs are S. dubia, a 
native of China; S. JosiJcce, discovered in Hungary, in 
1828, by the Countess Eosalie Josika. S. JEmodi, a new 
Himalayan species, resembles the Persian Lilac, but with 
more numerous flowers. The Lilacs produce plenty of 
suckers, and are propagated still more rapidly by layers : 
the rarer kinds are grafted on the common. 

3£ezereo?i. — See JDaphne. 

Myrtle — Myrtus communis (of which there are broad- 
leaved, narrow-leaved, variegated, and double-blossomed 
varieties) — in point of hardiness is much on an equality 
with the Camellia, resisting the winters in many parts of 
Cornwall, Devonshire, and Ireland, with this difference, 
that, flowering later, it blooms safely and abundantly in 
the open air. In most parts of England, Myrtles must 
be kept in the greenhouse during winter. The single 
flowers produce berries, from which seedlings may be 



SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 125 



raised ; but the usual mode is to strike cuttings in sandy 
soil under a bell-glass. Allspice, M. Pimento,, is now 
removed to another genus. M. microphylla has pretty 
foliage, which pleases by its great regularity. 

Nerium splendens — Oleander, — a handsome evergreen, 
with full, rose-pink, single or double flowers : there are 
flesh-coloured and other varieties. It is even tenderer 
than the Myrtle, and therefore useless here as an out- 
door shrub. Its merits hardly entitle it to the space 
it would occupy in the greenhouse, and its great 
tendency to bleed profusely renders pruning an unsatis- 
factory operation to keep it in shape. Many a gardener 
has looked upon the death of an awkward overgrown 
Nerium as a happy release, and has forthwith consoled 
himself for the bereavement by taking into favour some 
less ungainly beauty. It requires abundance of water, 
and is propagated either by rooted suckers, or by slips 
pulled off, not cuttings, rooted in a bottle of w r ater, or in 
light soil kept constantly wet. It is abundant in Algeria, 
along the banks of streams, which it is said to poison, 
either by exudations from its root or the drip of its 
leaves. 

Oleander. — See Nerium. 

Passion Flower — Passijlora ccerulea, the Blue or Com- 
mon Passion-flower — is the representative of a large 
genus, which are stove or greenhouse climbers, with the 
exception of two, — this and P. edulis, — which may be left 
in the open ground during our ordinary winters, with 
protection, and a covering of litter at root. Their name 
is derived from a fanciful resemblance which the various 
parts of inflorescence bear to the symbols and instru- 
ments of the Saviour's Passion, — to the glory, the ham- 
mer, the nails, the wounds, &c. Passion-flowers rapidly 
exhaust the soil in which they grow r , require plenty of 
root-room, and consequently are not well adapted for 
pot-culture ; they thrive in light, rich, deep loam, well 
drained, and yet not 'too dry. They are propagated by 
cuttings, layers, suckers, seeds, and by grafting on P. 
ccerulea. It is always safer to retain in pots small plants 



12b 



of the out-door kinds, in case of accident to their elders 
from severe frost. Some of the half-hardy kinds are 
worth turning out against a wail the first week in June, 
a succession jot another year being" kept np in the same 
way as ~i:u bed dig- plants. Severs, species bear edible 
fruits, called grenadillas, which, if not of high flavour, 
afford welcome refreshment in hot climates ; here (as those 
on P. edulis) they are simply pretty and curious, hang- 
ing along the branches like a series of eggs of increasing 
dimensions. P. ^dc,ir bears, a: borne, brents as 

big as Melons, whose pulp is eaten with sugar ; in our 
hothouses, it flowers and gives out its perfume better 
than it fruits. P. jBrasiliana produces flowers often at 
the extremity of its tendrils. P. maUformis has yellow 
fruit as big as apples; while that of P. Imirifolw, the 
size of an err. is in blob esteem. P. jcJ-ur.:. — Irb. 
violet flowers, hlooms well in the open air, although it 
may not prove perennial there. P. Seummi likewise 
may be made the subject of out-door experiment. P. in- 
carnata has deep-bine flowers, and its crown, or rays, are 
longer than the corolla. Jf its shoots are frozen in the 
open ground, it will send forth others, which will flower 
in the August of the same summer. P. Zoudomi is a 
stove-plant, with brilliant crimson flowers, deservedly 
named in compliment to one of our most industrious and 
able horticultural writers. 

Poly gala specwsa, oppcsitifolioy myrtifolia. laneeolata, 
Heist eria, &c. — Cape shrubs, with butterfly-shaped 
flowers of various shades of purple, and with a silky 
tassel at the tip of the keel. Their foliage is neat and 
regular : they require a mixture of leaf-mould and sandy 



loam. They will not bear our winters out-doors, which 
is a great pity: because, in pots, they have a great 
tendency to become wire-drawn and bare at foot, while 
the elegance of the flowers renders them desirable to 
retain either for bouquets or to remain blooming on the 
plants themselves. Purchase of a nurseryman, rather 
than be plagued with the slow process of raising tiny 
cuttings taken from the tips of the shoots, or seeds sown 



SHRUBBY A3"D SUB- SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 127 

on a hotbed, or layers. Be careful to water neither too 
little nor too much : it is far better to give the required 
moderate, but constant supply, at two or three doings 
than at one. 

Pomegranate — Granatum, flore pleno. — The Double- 
flowered Pomegranate will thrive out-doors, in England, 
against a wall. It is a favourite plant to be thus trained, 
as a sort of pilaster, on each side of the entrance-door of 
a mansion. But the blooms thereon are few and rare, 
partly perhaps from injudicious pruning : the flowers are 
produced on the shoots of the year, and therefore care 
should be taken to leave lateral spurs from which they 
may start. But the truth is, that, even in France, the 
Pomegranate is a tub-plant, requiring a considerable 
length as well as heat of summer, which is attained by 
forwarding it in an orangery in spring. So treated, and 
brought out of doors, with us, about midsummer, it 
becomes, in the course of years, a magnificent object, 
adorning the close of summer with its bright- scarlet 
fleshy flowers. The Pomegranate attains a great age; 
perhaps equal to that of the Orange-tree and the Olive. 
Its bark, then, is twisted like a corkscrew, and its aspect 
venerable, at the same time that it annually blooms and 
puts forth its small, shining, deciduous leaves. There 
are yellow and white varieties (both far from common), 
which may be grafted on the Single Pomegranate. Cut- 
tings strike freely, in heat. P. nana is a dwarf species, 
or variety, which comes to us from South America. An 
intermediate variety, P. nana racemosa, double, flowers 
more freely, and earlier. The Pomegranate does best in 
a substantial loam, that is at the same time rich and 
pervious to moisture, and is renewed at no long intervals. 
During growth, it must have frequent and copious water- 
ings. The bark of the roots, and the roots themselves, 
are in repute as a medicine against intestinal worms. 

JPyrus Japmica — Japan Pear, — which bears scarlet 
blossoms early in spring, is really a Quince, and is now 
removed to the genus Cydonia ; but many real Pears de- 
serve culture as flowering-shrubs and trees. Of some, the 



128 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



fruit is pretty, and good to eat, as in P. baccata, pruni- 
folia, and especially P. Astracanica. P. salicifolia, 
Sinaica (from Mount Sinai), and salvifolia — allied species, 
with woolly, light, and downy elongated leaves — have a 
pleasing effect. P. spectabilis, coronaria, and floribunda, 
are exceedingly showy. Propagate by seeds, or by 
grafting on the Service, the Hawthorn, the Crab, the 
Wild Pear, or the Quince. The Service-trees and the 
Mountain Ashes have been removed from the Pears to 
the genus Sorbus. The common Mountain Ash, S. 
mieuparia, i. e. Bird-catching Service (of which there is 
a weeping variety), is admired for its coral-red berries, 
as well as for its handsome foliage. The American 
Mountain Ash, S. Americana, is robust and erect, with 
smaller and darker red fruit than the former. Those 
who have not the patience to raise them from seed, may 
graft on the "White Thorn. If you sow the berries of 
the Mountain Ash in the chinks of rocks, years after- 
wards, when you have forgotten the circumstance, you 
will find an ornamental object growing on the spot. 
Some of the Services, again, are referred to the Haw- 
thorns, to which they are very nearly allied. The planters 
of shrubberies will do well to inspect a complete list of 
the genus Pyrus. 

Raspberry {Flowering). — See Bramble. 

Rhododendron — The Greek for Rose-tree. — Native 
evergreens of Europe, Asia, and America, whose best- 
known representative is perhaps R. Ronticum, from Asia 
Minor, and its very numerous varieties. Of late years, 
the genus has been greatly enlarged by the discoveries 
of Dr. Hooker in the Sikkim Himalaya mountains, 
whence he has introduced plants of extraordinary beauty, 
and from which every year exquisite varieties and 
hybrids are likely to result. Of these original species, 
R. Thompsonii is one of the handsomest shrubs ever 
introduced into Europe. In damp and shady situations, 
it attains a height of six feet or more. Its leaves are 
broad in proportion to their length, light-green above, 
and somewhat glaucous beneath. Its large whole- 



SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 129 

coloured, bell-shaped flowers grow together in bunches 
of six or eight, and glow with the most vivid crimson. 
All the Rhododendrons are American plants, in the gar- 
dening sense ; they have fibrous roots, which are seriously 
injured or killed by drought, and they must have some 
sort, or imitation, of heath-mould. Where this is not to 
be had from a natural source, within a convenient dis- 
tance, a substitute may be manufactured by thoroughly 
combining silver-sand with leaf-mould, rotten sawdust, 
rotten tan, little bits of stick, and the refuse of a wood- 
stack charred in an oven to kill the insects, light loam, 
and vegetable refuse in which the seeds and creeping 
roots of weeds have been deprived of their troublesome 
vitality. Rhododendrons must have a certain amount of 
shade ; and therefore, when not under lofty trees (which 
is their natural position), they do best with a north or 
north-east exposure. It is curious that several of the 
Sikkim species, — for instance, pendulum and Dallwusice, 
are epiphytes ; that is, they grow on the branches of 
trees, where their roots find support and nourishment 
by penetrating the moss and loose bark. Nevertheless, 
they grow well in pots, and in the open ground, in 
heath-mould, with good drainage at bottom, and a moist 
atmosphere above. As the hardiness of these novelties 
is scarcely yet ascertained with accuracy, it will be safer 
to house valuable specimens in a greenhouse in winter ; 
still there is every reason to hope that they will be found 
to adapt themselves to the British climate, if proper 
attention be paid to their peculiar requirements of shade, 
a peaty soil, and a constant infiltration of moisture. At 
least they are well worth the risk of experiment. Thus, 
JR. glaucum, light purple, grows in the clefts of rocks at 
an altitude of four thousand feet ; B. lanatum has large 
leaves and light-yellow flowers with a bright orange spot 
and purple speckles, within ; B. triflorum has pale- 
yellow flowers, growing by threes at the tips of the 
young shoots ; B. Maddeni has large white blossoms 
delicately washed with pink outside ; B. argenteum is so 
named because its leaves, dark green above, are silver- 



lao 



THE ELOWER OAEDEK. 



white beneath. The undeveloped flower-buds are pro- 
tected by membranous scales of a bright pink ; the pure 
white flowers form enormous bunches. These few are 
sufficient to give an idea of the obligations which gar- 
deners owe to Dr. Hooker. Other and older species are 
_K. arhoreum, cinnamomeum, roseum, maximum (greatest, 
rather a misnomer), and Catawhiense, with their very- 
numerous offspring obtained from seed, and only to be 
propagated by extension. R. Vervceneanum, a fine 
variety raised by Monsieur Vervsene, has double flowers, 
light rosy-lilac speckled with yellow. The centre of 
each bloom is filled with tufts of stamens transformed 
into petals. H. ferrugineum and Jiirsutum claim our 
interest as natives of the Alps. R. CJiamcecistus, from the 
mountains of the Tyrol, has bright flesh-coloured flowers, 
is the smallest of the genus, and far from the easiest to 
cultivate. All are naturally of hardy constitution, and 
accustomed to severity of weather at home; but they 
will not stand all hinds of winters. These nice peculiari- 
ties of atmospheric condition are what constitute the 
main difficulty in the culture of Alpine plants. At the 
first glance, it would be taken for granted that plants 
growing not far from the line of perpetual snow, must 
be easy to keep alive sheltered on the plain, where they 
are secure from snowdrifts and gusty winds ; but in 
practice, such is not found to be the case. Rhododen- 
drons are propagated by grafting and layering. The 
nicest plants are obtained from seed sown in pans of 
sifted heath-mould, pressed down with the hand, and 
kept equally and constantly moist till the seedlings have 
sprouted, which is effected by making the pans stand in 
other pans filled with water, and covered with a bell- 
glass or even a flat pane. In their second year, the 
plants are pricked out ; two years afterwards, they are 
shifted to wider distances, where they remain till strong 
enough to take their final positions. The Rhododen- 
drons are very nearly allied to the Azaleas, and even 
hybridize with them. They bear transplantation well, 
if removed with a good ball of earth and well watered 
afterwards. 



SHEUBBY AND STJB-SHETTBBY FLOWEES. 131 

Miles. — The Latin generic name of the common Cur- 
rant and Gooseberry bush is now popularly used by 
gardeners to indicate the species with showy flowers and 
worthless fruit, mostly from California. B. sanguineum 
is widely spread, as is its variety with double flowers. It 
likes shade and a moist peaty soil. The Flowering 
Gooseberry, B. aureum, has golden-yellow flowers with 
bright red anthers. B. pahnatum has longer flowers than 
the above. Between this and B. sanguineum, a hybrid, 
B. Gordonianum, with sterile nankin-coloured flowers, 
is supposed to have been originated. B. malvaceum, 
Mallow-leaved, and B. speciosum or fuschio'ides, Fuschia- 
flowered, and B. ceremn, Wax-leaved, floridum, multi- 
florim, and punctatum, are all equally hardy with the 
above. The ornamental Bibes do not bear indiscreet 
pruning, especially at bottom: they do much better 
grown as bushes than as standards, and require to have 
their wood thinned out rather than shortened. They are 
increased without difficulty by suckers, layers, and cut- 
tings ; more slowly and more uncertainly by seeds. The 
Flowering Gooseberry likes a drier and more gravelly 
soil than B. sanguineum. When 'grown in pots and 
greenhouses, the flowers lose much of their fulness of 
colour, which requires the open air to reach its attainable 
depth and richness. 

Bose — Bosa. — Multitudinous in species, endless in 
variety. For any one in search of a floricultural fancy or 
hobby-horse, perhaps no better protege can be recom- 
mended than the genus Bose to take into favour. For, 
independent of all historical and poetical associations, and 
forgetting its sweet inoffensive perfume and its medicinal 
virtues, the Bose affords a subject for rivalry and exhibi- 
tion, with great diversity of form, colour, habit, and con- 
stitution. Although it is easy for those who have few 
horticultural appliances, to form a flue collection of hardy 
kinds, others, whose means put them in possession of 
frames, hothouses, and greenhouses, may extend their 
lists by tender sorts, equally charming and more rare, — 
may anticipate the summer's bloom, by forcing; may 

x 2 



132 



THE FLOWER GABDEX. 



rescue autumnal buds, by shelter, from perishing, and 
may enjoy the luxury of roses all the year round ; not, as 
with Banunculuses so treated, by a constant repetition of 
the same thing over and over again, but by bringing for- 
ward, in their natural order, a diversity of plants which 
have a tendency to bloom at different seasons. The 
sight of a well-kept Bosary in spring, summer, autumn, 
and winter, will convince you that the above remarks are 
founded on truth. Supposing that you consult the 
Gardener's Chronicle, and that you run your eye through 
the advertisements there, you will have met with several 
pressing invitations to visit, during their season, sundry 
fine collections of roses, all unrivalled ; — none but them- 
selves can be their parallel ; — all in full bloom, and likely 
to continue so, till November comes to draggle their 
petals and scatter their leaves. Reversing the celebrated 
advice to persons about to marry — " Don't!" — I will 
take the liberty, when a Bose-hunt is talked of, of 
urgently insisting — "Do, do!" And do it fairly, with- 
out favour or partiality ; go and see all the rose-gardens, 
or as many of them as you can possibly visit. Live on 
bread and water for a week, and work double tides, 
rather than fail to pay your court to the Queen of 
the Bourbons, and The Queen, surrounded by their 
ladies of honour. It is worth while putting oneself a 
little out of one's way to inhale the perfumed breath and 
to gaze upon the blushing though highly-rouged cheeks 
of Madame Laffay, Madame Desprez, Lady Alice Peel, 
and the Duchess of Sutherland, and to be interested by 
the tenderer, paler complexions of the Duchess of Orleans 
and Mrs. Bosanquet. The Souvenir of Malmaison will 
make you sigh with an emotion in which pleasure pre- 
dominates over painful recollections. Then, there are 
little round-faced pupils, to whom you might wish for an 
introduction, but who are still in their nursery — they 
have not yet come out. Some of these, if you treat them 
well, will supply you with bouquets nearly all the year 
round. But, leaving their budding innocence in retire- 
ment for the present, start as soon as you can in search 



SHE1JBBY AST) SUB-SHEUBBY PLOWEES. 



133 



of a perfect rose, hoping one of these days to meet with, as 
we are promised, a Yellow Moss Perpetual ; and give no 
just cause to Paul and Son, Wood and Son, or Lane and 
Son, or Mitchell, or Clark, or Grier, or Bircham of Heden- 
ham, or others, for whose names there is no room in a 
brief prose rose-epic, to regard each other with sour and 
jealous looks, because you have favoured some with your 
presence and have slighted their competitors. Make a 
complete rhodological tour, as far as lies within your power. 

You will find groups or classes of roses, with very dis- 
tinctive characters, which may be divided into Late- 
Spring and Summer Roses, and Autumnal and Winter 
Eoses. Of the first, we have the 'Provence or Cabbage 
Hose, which is no other than the B. ceniifolia, or Hun- 
dred-leaved Eose, from the number of its petals, not its 
leaves. Of this there are several varieties in point of 
colour. The Queen of Provence is paler and more lilacky 
than the common sort ; the Scarlet Provence is merelv a 
carmine-tinted flower. The Unique is a w T hite Eose of 
extreme purity, probably proceeding from the Cabbage 
Eose by what is called " sporting, 5 ' i.e. when a sucker or 
a branch of the original plant changes its character with- 
out assignable cause. These " sports" are only perpetu- 
ated by budding, grafting, or layering, and even then 
are far from permanent, showing a constant tendency to 
revert to the original type. Thus, on the same branch 
of the Unique you will sometimes have a completely red 
flower by the side of a white one. The Striped Unique 
has the petals exquisitely striped with pink, like those of 
a delicate tulip. This, too, is not to be depended upon 
for stability of character. Sometimes a bloom will come 
half white and half striped, sometimes half red 
and half striped, and occasionally half white and 
half red, without any stripes at all ; and that perhaps 
on the very same bush. The Crested Provence, some- 
times erroneously called, the Crested Moss, is very beauti- 
ful before it is fully expanded. It is in all respects like 
the Cabbage Eose, except that on the outer divisions of 
the calyx there grows, not moss, but a kind of stiff irregu- 



134 



THE PLOTTER GAUDIEST. 



lax fringe, very artificial yet tasty in its appearance. It 
looks as if some short, stiff, bright green seaweed had 
tat en root outside the bud. Of course this supplemental 
ornament is lost to sight when the Rose is fully expanded. 
The above extremely pleasing varieties warn us how care- 
ful we ought to be in rejecting plants growing in old 
gardens, before we have seen with our own eyes what 
they actually are. The Crested is said to have been dis- 
covered growing from the crevice of a wall in Friburg, 
Switzerland : and the Unique was found by Mr. Grim- 
wood, then of the Kensington Nurseiy, in the garden of 
Mr. Richmond, a baker, living near Needham Market, 
Suffolk. Mr. Grimwood asked for a branch, but obtained 
the entire plant, which was willingly given him. It 
ought to be added, that the following year Mr. Grim- 
wood, to his credit, made Mr. Richmond a present of a 
handsome silver cup, on which was engraved a figure of 
the rose. Two exquisite and delicate varieties, the Rath 
White Moss and the Pompon Moss, owe their discovery 
and preservation to persons who knew how to make use 
of their eyes, and had profitably studied " The Art of 
Seeing." There can be little doubt that many beautiful 
unknown flowers are trampled under-foot and destroyed, 
without an opportunity of displaying their merits, simply 
because some careless landlord, gardener, or in-coming 
tenant, happened first to behold them when they were 
not in bloom, or in leaf. 

The Cabbage Rose has produced dwarf varieties ; how 3 
or where, we do not know. The Rose de Meaux and its 
still more diminutive sister the Pompon (Little Trinket) 
Rose, are miniatures of the Cabbage Provence, with the 
advantage that they bloom earlier, and so make elegant 
pot-plants for forcing. Sponges Rose is intermediate in 
size and stature between the Rose de Meaux and the 
Cabbage, but most resembles the former ; it is cupped, 
with a full pink centre, the outer petals being lighter, 
and makes a beautiful little standard, budded low. The 
Dwarf Rur gundy is another member of the same family, 
with cupped, deep-red double flowers, but a much less 



SHEUBBY AST) SUB-SHRUBBY PL0WEBS. 135 

abundant bloomer than either of the above. The Wliite 
Burgundy, similar except in colour, is less frequently met 
with. All these Dwarf Eoses must have a free rich 
loam ; they have a great tendency to send up young wood 
annually from the roots, which young wood, principally, 
but not exclusively, bears the blooms of the following 
season, while the old wood becomes barren, sticky, and 
half-dead. Hence it is better to cut out the wood which 
has once flowered, without waiting for its natural decline, 
and also to remove the plants every second year, pruning 
them at the same time on this principle. To be sure, 
the treatment is a little troublesome ; but it is the only 
way to prevent Pompons and Burgundies from getting 
rough and shabby. For the same reason, standards 
of tbese Lilliputian Eoses, though very pretty, are apt to 
be equally short-lived : they bloom well once, and then 
they go dead, unless they can be made to throw out 
vigorous young wood from the point where the original 
bud was inserted. 

Of the Moss Rose we are ignorant whence it comes ; 
we only know that it is nearly related to the Cabbage 
Provence, and that everybody admires it. The Bath 
White Moss greatly resembles it, with the exception of 
colour and a much more delicate habit. It is largely 
grown for the American market, where it is highly 
admired ; but where it is probably even more short-lived 
than with us, for we can only keep it going by continually 
budding it afresh. Moss Unique is said to have been 
obtained from a Unique branch producing flowers adorned 
with moss. The branch was budded from, and the plants 
so propagated produced flowers retaining (with more or 
less certainty) their mossy characteristic. The Blush JIoss 
is a beautiful rose, somewhat less fragile in constitution 
than the "White Bath. The Crimson Moss is handsome 
and vigorous ; sometimes called the Tinwell Moss, from 
having been raised at Tinwell, in Eutlandshire. The 
Moss Pompon is a charming little pet, which requires 
every care to keep it in tolerable vigour. Zoe, or Mossy 
Partout, is so called because the leaves even, and the 



136 THE ELOWEE GAKDE1S". 

stalks and stems, are productive of the mossy excrescence. 
De La Fleche is the nearest approach to a Scarlet 3Ioss. 
There are other Moss Eoses of the same type, but these 
are among the best. 

Another set of Moss Eoses have more semi-double 
flowers, a more rampant growth, a tendency to flower 
twice during the summer, and to produce their bloom 
in numerous clusters. They are likewise well covered 
with moss, and are more beautiful in the bud than 
when full-blown. They have hardly a right to the 
title "Perpetual," although the Perpetual White Moss 
and the Perpetuelle Mauget (bright rose and hand- 
some, raised from the Crimson Perpetual) figure on the 
lists. Good mosses of the same character as these, with- 
out any pretensions to perpetuity, are The Luxembourg, 
deep crimson, of vigorous growth • Ccelina or Selina, like 
the preceding, but darker in tint ; and Comtesse de Noe\ 
bright crimson and purple, of good form and vigorous 
growth, with handsome dark-green foliage. The moss roses 
are budded as easily as others ; only the spines and moss 
on the bark in the immediate neighbourhood of the bud, 
must be rubbed off by gentle side strokes, while the 
cutting from which they are taken is still fresh, and just 
before the operation is performed. They require a well- 
drained, deep, rich loam, which, at the same time, is never 
subject to drought and scalding, with plenty of sun and 
air. Under such conditions, the robuster varieties will 
luxuriate vigorously. Mr. Paul describes a pillar of the 
old Eed Moss attaining a height of fifteen feet, and 
although not well furnished with branches the whole 
height, some of the shoots of the previous year's growth 
were above six feet long, and the main stems had swelled 
to a considerable size. It is true that such gigantic 
stature is above the average, and is owing to the com- 
bined effects of soil, situation, age, and the fostering care 
of the cultivator; still, quite within the attainment of 
ordinary gardeners is a collection ot Moss Eoses, formed 
into pillars varying in height from six to eight feet. The 
above-mentioned kinds afford sufficient materials for ac- 
complishing the purpose. 



SHRUBBY A^D SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 137 



The Double Yellow Callage Rose, or Yellow Provence 
— R. sulpliurea — approaches the Provence in name only, 
and in similarity of form of the expanded blossom, being 
essentially alien in descent to that and most other roses. 
When well bloomed it is a horticultural gem, but is so 
difficult to manage as to make it, in that case, a horti- 
cultural triumph. As to situation, I have never seen it 
blossom well, either in Britain or on the Continent^ 
except when growing at the foot of a low wall, over the 
top of which it could straggle as it pleased ; for it will 
not submit to pruning. It is' one of the roses (among 
which are included the pretty little climbing JBanJcsias, 
with their white or nankin-coloured tufts of tiny violet- 
scented flowers) which cannot bear even the smell of cold 
steel. Tou might not unreasonably expect them to 
refuse to flower if you come near them with a knife in 
your pocket, even if you do not take it out and open it. 
Tou may get rid of their dead and used-up wood as well 
as you can, by breaking it off ; but the effluvium of iron 
agrees not with their constitution. A south aspect does 
not suit the Cabbage Yellow, while plenty of evidence 
exists to prove that the best chances are had in the 
above-stated position, or some near approach to it. Mr. 
Paul tells us : — " At East Lodge, on Enfield Chase, there 
was a plant on its own roots, growing at a distance of 
about ten yards from a wall with a north-eastern aspect. 
It here produced its beautiful yellow blossoms abundantly ? 
covering the bush on all sides, during the flowering season, 
for several successive years. This situation is high and 
exposed : the soil is naturally a heavy loam, but was some- 
what lightened and enriched by the frequent addition of 
stable manure. At Ballater, in Scotland, both this and the 
Austrian Rose flower beautifully. They grow there most 
luxuriantly, in a very exposed situation, covering a wall of 
great height and extent, laden with perfect flowers." Mr. 
Rivers tells us : — " At Burleigh, the seat of the Marquis 
of Exeter, the effect of situation on this rose is forcibly 
shown. A very old plant is growing against the southern 
wall of the mansion,in a confined situation, its root cramped 
by a stone pavement : it is weakly, and never shows a 



THE EEOWEE GAEDE>". 



flower-bud. In the entrance-court is another plant, grow- 
ing in front of a low parapet- wall, in a good loamy soil and 
free airy exposure ; this is in a state of the greatest luxuri- 
ance, and blooms in fine perfection nearly every season. 
M. G-odefroy, a French nurseryman, has cultivated the 
Yellow Provence as a pillar rose in a free and open 
situation with much success. Surface manure in autumn, 
liquid manure in May. and summer pruning with finger 
and thumb, are indispensable details in his routine." 
The Yellow Cabbage will not bear the smoke of towns ; 
nor has any good been done with it by budding, as far 
as has yet come to light. In unfavourable soils, it has 
been recommended to be budded on the JtfusJc Rose, the 

on China Rose, or on some free-growing H 
China ; or to bud and graft it on short stems of the 
Rosa JIanettii. to be afterwards planted in orchard- 
houses ; on all which, the only true commentary is com- 
prised in the words ''•'but 55 and '''perhaps." Possibly 
we have no congenial stocks on which to bud it, but 
must ransack the wilds of its native Persia to find them. 
Its delicate glaucous leaves and slender - : : 

not look as if they could £nd sympathetic support from 
any of the roses at present dwelling in Europe. In short, 
no system of culture has hitherto been hit upon which is 
certain to insure a successful issue. It is not quite clear 
that its dwarf variety, the Pompon Yellow, has ever m 
v: med its flowers in England. 

Tne Austrian Briar — £. J idea — takes after the Yellow 
Cabbage in its dislike to smoke, to pruning with a knife, 
and to being budded on other stocks. It likes a dry 
soil, and plenty of liberty for its branches to ramble. As 
yet, a double Austrian briar is a desideratum, which, 
enthusiasts tell us only bides its time. There are two 
varieties ; the most striking has large single blossoms, 
rich copper-colour within and yellow without ; the petals 
of the other are of a bright canary-yellow, both on their 
upper and under surfaces. Harrison's Double Yellow 
Briar is a valuable Rose, bearing town-smoke a little 
better than the former, doing well budded on the Dog 



SHB.TTBBY AST) SUB-SHETEBY FLOWEES. 139 

Rose, and blooming both freely and early. It is useful 
to constitute the attractive flower in the centre of a pretty- 
bouquet. In pruning, thin out the twigs rather than 
shorten them : you will thus obtain a sort of weeping 
Eose. Harrisonii, as it is sometimes called, reached the 
Old World from America. The Persian Yellow is also 
a beautiful semi-double briar, which was highly vaunted 
on its first introduction. It is questionable, however, 
whether it will supersede Harrison's. It has scarcely 
bloomed so freely, nor submitted to the restraints of 
pruning and the proximity of towns with so good a 
grace : but still deserves a fair trial and persevering 
attention on the part of the amateur. Persia has yet 
other Boses to send us, if some enterprising collector 
will only fetch them. The large species there called the 
iff ustarund, which grows to a considerable height, throw- 
ing out garlands of highly-scented flowers, would be a 
valuable acquisition to our pleasure-grounds : the Mis- 
keeja is also a very pretty delicate cream-coloured Eose. 
From a red kind, highlv scented, the best rose-water is 
distilled. 

The Wliite Rose — JR. alba — is the parent of a very 
distinct little party, recognisable by their grey glaucous 
leaves, their vigorous shoots, with smooth bark and stout 
thorns not too closely crowded, and their peculiar per- 
fume. They often make handsome plants in moderate- 
sized towns, grown on their own roots and trained 
against a wall, a large surface of which they will cover. 
The Old White is an early and a welcome rose ; its 
semi-double and single varieties are often to be seen in 
out-of-the-way gardens and shrubberies, as if the plant 
had stolen away to the wilderness, and had resumed the 
habits of savage life. Everybody knows and loves the 
Maiden's Blush. Celestial is a very beautiful flower 
when half- opened ; afterwards, its charms diminish. 
Madame Audot is a fine double creamy pink hybrid 
between the Alba and something else. Princesse Larn- 
balle is a lovely pure white rose, sometimes delicately 
tinged with flesh. The Queen of Denmark is another 



140 



THE ELOWEB GARDEN. 



charming hybrid; La Seduisante is a fine flower. Hy- 
brids from the "White have produced several mottled 
roses ; amongst which are Madame Campari, Fffie Deans, 
and Marie de Bowrgogne. The Old "White and the 
Maiden's Blush furnish excellent stocks to bud on. 

TJie French Base — R. Gallica — a highly-scented species, 
of robust growth and thrifty habit, in any tolerable soil ; 
is largely grown in the environs of Provins, in France^ 
to make conserve ; it is thence sometimes called the 
Rose de Provins, which has caused a confusion with 
Provence roses. A well-known type is the medical rose, 
grown for the apothecaries to dry and make decoction of 
roses with, and for the preparation of rose-water by 
distillers. Another wide-spread variety is the coarse, 
semi-double, striped rose, which ought to be called Rosa- 
mond, or Rosa mundi, the World's Rose, though it is 
often wrongly styled the Yor/c and Lancaster. French 
roses will often succeed in towns. From them have 
been raised several beautiful striped and spotted varie- 
ties ; as the Village JIaid, Carnation, Abbesse, Due 
d'' Orleans Ronctuee, Harlequin, and others. The spots 
are less to be depended on than the stripes. Many of 
the French, roses are admirable as exhibition flowers ; 
take as instances, Enchantress, light pink ; D'Aguesseau, 
bright crimson, very large and full ; Roula de Isanteuil, 
dark crimson : Kean, crimson-scarlet shading into purple ; 
Grandissima, rosy crimson: Rriseis, brilliant rose; 
Corate Lacepede, rosy lilac ; Gueriris Gift, vivid rose ; 
Madame Dubarry, crimson- scarlet ; (Eillet Fiamand. 
distinctly striped with pink and rosy lilac ; Ramela, 
large, rose, and very double ; Tricolor, striped crimson 
and purple, of which there are several successive im- 
provements ; Tuscany, dark velvety-crimson ; and scores 
of others. The petals of the French roses are the best 
for making pot-pourri. In pruning, thin out the heads 
well, and shorten the shoots moderately. The nursery- 
men's catalogues of French roses are immense; but, as 
Mr. Rivers observes, " it is perfectly useless, in the 
present advanced state of rose-culture, to burden these 



SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 141 



pages with a long list of varieties which are, or ought to 
be, obsolete. Autumnal roses must very shortly entirely 
supersede all the summer roses, with the exception of a 
few select varieties of the Moss Rose;" and, let me add, 
the Yellows, the "Whites, and the Scotch. 

Damask Hoses — JR. Damascene — are of rough, twiggy, 
thorny habit, with light green, somewhat downy leaves, 
and hardy constitution. A good example is the true 
York and Lancaster, a double, flattish, striped, rose, which 
occasionally produces blooms wholly white on one half 
of their area, and wholly red on' the other, thus symboliz- 
ing the union ot the Houses after the bloody wars of the 
"White and Eed Roses. They are fragrant flowers, but 
the bushes on their own roots are of irregular, scrubby, 
and inelegant growth. Budded as standards, they may 
be treated in the same way as the French Roses. Show 
Damasks which deserve mention, are Madame Hardy, 
pure white, but with a green eye too conspicuous ; JSemi- 
ramis, fawn in the centre, shaded with glossy pink ; La 
Fe'roce, or Ferox, very large, full, pink flowers, with an 
extra allowance of thorns on the branches ; La Constance, 
or Pceony-flowered, very large, flattish, full, pink, darker 
in the centre, makes a showy standard; La Ville de 
Brnxelles, pink, very large and double ; La Che'rie, 
delicate blush, cupped, very double ; Madame Zoutman, 
delicate cream-colour ; and Pulcherie, pure white. Do 
not prune these in too closely ; let them run on, to form 
large heads, unless they are getting shabby and naked 
near the original bud. 

Scotch Roses — S. spinosissima — have small leaflets, 
small twiggy branches thickly set with small spines, pro- 
ducing undersized, globular, double, aud semi-double 
flowers, sweetly scented, and blooming before summer 
roses in general. They have a great tendency to throw 
up suckers, which blossom profusely the following sum- 
mer ; hence, some growers cut out the old wood annually, 
almost as strictly and completely as they would do with 
raspberry-canes. All the Scotch roses resemble each 
ether very much in their habit of growth ; they are less 



142 



THE FLOWER G-AEDEy. 



easy than other members of the same genu3 to distin- 
4 guish, when leafless in winter, by the aspect of the wood. 
A collection of the different varieties makes, therefore, a 
nice even hedge of roses, which only reqnires looking 
over once or twice a year to keep it compact and in order. 
Budded as standards, they make pleasing heads when full 
in bloom, but require considerable patience to prune, 
which must be done by thinning out rather than by 
cutting back. The blooms are better adapted for out- 
door enjoyment, and for bouquets, than for exhibition. A 
few distinct varieties are The Queen of May, blush ; True 
Yellow, a hybrid, sulphur-coloured fading to white ; TJie 
King of Scotland, petals purplish red within, light with- 
out ; Venus, dark and double ; William TV., large white ; 
Sulphurea, straw-coloured ; Guy Mannering, double blush; 
La Xeige, white and double ; and Daphne, pink. The 
Stanwell Perpetual is a true Scotch rose, very light blush 
fading to white, sweetly scented, and the only one worth 
notice belonging to its group which is really what the 
Trench call a rose remontante, or ever-flowering rose. It 
begins as early as any of its brethren ; and the frosts are 
sure to destroy advancing buds, which would open in 
their turn, c; weather permitting." It would be worth 
trying the Stanwell in plunged pots, to be transferred to 
the greenhouse at the approach of winter. 

The wild Sweet Briar — JR. ruliginosa — has been intro- 
duced to our pleasure-grounds for the exquisite fragance 
of its leaves ; the flowers are scarcely more highly scented 
or prettier than those of the common Dog Rose. B. 
canina, and in all cases where its blossoms have been 
improved by intentional or accidental hybridizing, or by 
the sporting either of germinating seedlings or suckers 
from old-established plants, the improvement has been 
obtained at a sacrifice of some good quality in the foliage ; 
such as diminished vigour and suppressed perfume. Those 
who like, may try the Carmine Sweet Briar, the Monstrous. 
the Scarlet or La Belle JDistinguee, and the Splendid ; 
but for the purpose for which Sweet Briars are grown, 
there is nothing to equal the Sweet Briar of the hedge. 



SHBUBBY AXD SUB- SHRUBBY ILOWEES. 143 



The above-mentioned (and there are none better) are quite 
worthless as exhibition, and nearly so as bouquet flowers. 
Hybrids from the Sweet Briars, whose flowers have 
any pretensions as roses, have their leaves nearly or 
quite scentless, and would not be suspected to come of 
odoriferous parentage. The Double Marginated Sip 
(there is a single one) has an abundance of small, tole- 
rably double, creamy-white flowers edged with pink. 
Riego, light carmine, large and double, has all the air of 
a Hybrid China. Mr. Rivers advises to re-cross this with 
the Splendid Briar, in the laudable endeavour to produce 
seed from which large and very fragrant double roses 
might be obtained, partaking largely of the characters of 
the true Sweet Briar in other respects. It is only by 
these repeated attempts and approximations to a given 
model that floricultural perfection can be attained. On 
gazing at a lovely flower, or tasting an exquisite fruit, 
few persons dream of the patient years and skilful com- 
binations it has cost. The wild Sweet Briar is not to be 
recommended as a stock to bud on. 

Hybrid Roses, from and between the Provence, the 
French, the Damask, the Bourbon, the China, the 
Xoisette, and others, have hitherto furnished the staple 
materials of our Horticultural Shows and our professed 
Rosaries. The climate of the Continent is better adapted 
than our own for the fertilization and ripening of hips ; 
and from thence the majority of new roses come ; but 
still, those processes are not only possible, but many fine 
varieties have originated here. One curious fact thus 
demonstrated is, that in crosses between summer and 
ever-flowering or autumnal roses, the progeny is almost 
always a summer rose only, losing its power of con- 
tinuing in bloom during autumn. To obtain a hybrid 
perpetual rose, you must cross between two perpetual 
parents. Professed and long-experienced raisers of new 
varieties from seed have discovered other very curious 
facts and practical rules. Mr. Rivers instructs us that 
" when it is desirable the qualities of a favourite rose 
should preponderate, the petals of the flower to be 



144 THE PLOWEB GABDEN. 

fertilized must be opened gently with the fingers ; a 
flower that will expand in the morning should be opened 
the afternoon or evening previous, and the anthers all 
removed with a pair of pointed scissors ; the following 
morning, when this flower is fully expanded, it must be 
fertilized with a flower of some variety of which it is 
desired to have seedlings, partaking largely of its quali- 
ties. To exemplify this, we will suppose that a climbing 
Moss Rose with red or crimson flowers is wished for : 
the flowers of the Blush Ayrshire, which bears seed 
abundantly, may be selected, and, before expansion, the 
anthers removed; the following morning, or as soon 
after the operation as these flowers open, they should be 
fertilized with those of the Luxembourg Moss ; if the 
operation succeed, seed will be procured from which the 
probability is, that a climbing rose will be produced, with 
the habit and the flower of the Moss Hose, or at least an 
approximation to them ; and as these hybrids often bear 
seed freely, by repeating the process with them the at 
present apparently remote chance of getting a climbing 
Moss Rose may be brought very near. It requires some 
watchfulness to open the petals of the expanding flower 
at the proper time : if too soon, the petals will be injured 
in forcing them open; and in hot weather in July, if 
delayed only an hour or two, the anthers will be found 
to have shed their pollen. To ascertain precisely when 
the pollen is in a fit state for transmission, a few of the 
anthers should be gently pressed with the finger and 
thumb ; if the yellow dust adheres to them, the operation 
may be performed ; it requires close examination and 
some practice to know when the flower to be operated 
upon is in a fit state to receive the pollen ; as a general 
rule, the flowers ought to be in the same state of expan- 
sion, or, in other words, about the same age. It is only 
in cases where it is wished for the qualities of a particular 
rose to predominate that the removal of the anthers of 
the rose to be fertilized is necessary. Thus, if a yellow 
climbing rose is desired by the union of the Yellow Briar 
with the Ayrshire, every anther should be removed from 



SHRUBBY AIOJ SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 145 



the latter, so that it is fertilized solely with the pollen of 
the former. In some cases, where it is desirable to have 
the qualities of both parents in an equal degree, the 
removal of the anthers need not take place ; thus, I have 
found by removing them from the Luxembourg Moss, 
and fertilizing that rose with a dark variety of Rosa 
Gallica, that the features of the Moss Eose are totally 
lost in its offspring, and they become nearly pure varie- 
ties of Eosa Gallica ; but if the anthers of the Moss 
Eose are left untouched, and it is fertilized with Eosa 
Gallica, interesting hybrids are the result, more or less 
mossy." By working out the foregoing hints, every intel- 
ligent rose amateur may aspire to the honour of raising 
some long-wished-for flower. 

But many handsome hybrid roses have been the result 
of accident; for instance, Eivers's George the Fourth, an 
English flower, very dark and velvety, raised from seed 
more than thirty years ago. The original plant is still 
living. Not to enter further into pedigrees, first-rate 
Hybrid Eoses are JBrennus or Brutus, very large and 
double, uniformly tinted with bright crimson ; makes an 
admirable pillar, and is so vigorous as to form a tree if 
budded on a tall stout stock ; Brown's Superb Blush, 
very large and double, dark-crimson centre, with the 
outer petals blush, apt to fail by monstrosity in shape ; 
Fanny Barissot, answers to the above description, but is 
more to be depended on ; ChenedcHe brilliant red, large, 
double, very vigorous growth ; Blair ii, No. 2, very large, 
blush, a free grower, with handsome foliage ; Beauty of 
Billiard, middle-sized, of compact form, colour like a 
burning coal, one of the most vivid roses existing, it 
actually shines as if it were on fire ; Duke of Devonshire, 
rosy lilac, striped with white, well-shaped, imbricated ; 
Hebe's Cup, or simple Hebe, full pink, large, cupped, a 
captivating flower in point of form and colour, but defi- 
cient in perfuDie, — a highly-scented perpetual Hebe 
would be a great acquisition ; Lamarqiie, velvety crimson- 
purple, one of the darkest roses, should be shaded in hot 
sunshine ; New Globe Hip, white, at first tinged with the 



146 



THE PLOWEE GAEDEK. 



palest yellow, cupped ; IS Ingenue, creamy white, imbri- 
cated, ranunculus-shaped, the first flowers apt to come 
defective or monstrous ; Triomphe d" Angers, bright car- 
mine, large, cupped, of weak and rampant growth, 
adapted for a weeping standard ; Bompone bicolor, small, 
very double, rich velvety crimson, apt to have an ugly 
green eye in the centre, vigorous growth ; Tourterelle, 
bluish dove-colour, on the outer petals fading to slaty 
grey; M6r daunt Delaunay, pruned long or scarcely at 
all, produces garlands and bouquets of small blush roses 
fading to white, of very pleasing effect. The above may 
be depended on as excellent varieties. 

Of Climbing Boses, useful for pillars, temples, veran- 
dahs, and running over the front of a cottage, there are 
several groups. The Boursault Boses, B. Alpina, the 
Alpine or Thornless Boses, are very distinct. They are 
perfectly hardy, of exuberant growth if well fed, and 
afford a good foundation on which to bud other varieties y 
either as standards or trained against a wall. The 
Crimson Boursaidt, or Amadis, has an abundance and a 
long succession of semi-double effective flowers, and 
makes a gay covering for an arbour or a rustic arch. The 
Blush Boursaidt, or Calypso, or Be VIsle, or Florida, or 
the White Boursaidt, is still more rampant. Its perfect 
bloom is extremely beautiful, very double, of delicate 
texture, deep blush, in the centre, shaded to white out- 
side ; but the majority of flowers produced are imperfect 
and misshapen, as if seme one had burst by a kick of the 
foot a cambric handkerchief rolled tight into a ball. 
These are the two leading types ; other Boursaults are 
Drummond^s Tliornless, JElegans, Gracilis and Inermis, 
all of them different shades of rosy crimson and cherry- 
colour. As standards, they make enormous heads, which 
become pendent and weeping if allowed to run on. 

The Ayrshire Boses — B. arvensis — are nearly as vigo- 
rous as the preceding, quite as hardy, and will serve the 
same purpose. They are mostly shades of blush and white. 
Bosa Buga, or the Double Ayrshire, the Queen of the 
Belgians, the Dundee Bambler, and Splendens, are the best 
of tnese, and very elegant they are in their peculiar style. 



SnEUBBY AND ST7B-SHBT7BBY 3TL0WEBS. 147 

The Evergreen Roses — R. sempervirens — are named 
according to what we wish them to be, rather than to 
what they are. They have smooth, shining, handsome 
foliage, which looks as if it ought to be as evergreen as a 
laurel-leaf ; and the habit of their growth gives you the 
idea that they certainly might flower all the autumn 
through. But they don't. The best of them is Felicite 
Perpetuelle, an elegant climber, with clusters of small, 
very double, pinky white blossoms. Donna Maria is 
very pure white, as if the petal's were made of rice-paper, 
with graceful foliage, but more tender than the above. 
Grown as weeping standards, they should be suffered to 
make a cataract of drooping branches, without restraint. 
Adelaide d' Orleans is not very, if at all, distinct from 
Pelicite. JBrunonii ha3 the merit of being rosy-crimson. 
Eeware how you prune any of the above. They may be 
made to climb up trees, like honeysuckle. 

Of the Prairie, or Bramble-leaved Rose, — R. rabifolia, 
— from North America, the best perhaps is the Queen of 
the Prairies ; but florists apologize for them, by stating 
that "the group is in its infancy." 

The Ranksian Roses, — R. Ranksice, — from China, white 
and yellow varieties, are half-hardy climbers which must 
have plenty of space to ramble over, and a sheltered situ- 
ation. If kept in bounds with the knife, they will only 
make the more wood, and won't flower. Dead wood and 
irregular shoots must be rectified with finger and thumb. 
In all the Banksias, the blossoms are very small, in clus- 
ters, and very fragrant. Were they hardy, they might 
be budded on the tallest procurable stocks, to make trees 
of the magnitude of "Weeping Ashes. For instance, at 
Toulon, there is a White Banksia? which, in 1842, covered 
a wall 75 feet broad and 18 feet high; when in full 
flower, from April to ^lay, there were not less than from 
50.000 to 60,000 flowers, on it. At Caserta, near Naples, 
there is another plant of the same variety, which has 
climbed to the top of a poplar-tree sixty feet high. And 
at Goodrent, near Eeading, there is a Yellow Banksise 
which, in 1847, produced above two thousand trusses of 

L 2 



148 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



flowers, with from six to nine expanded Roses on each 
truss. 

The Many-flov:ered Roses, — R. multifiora, — from Japan 
and China, are very pleasing climbers, with numerous 
clusters of small flowers, of shades often changing and 
fading in the same cluster, from full pink to white. 
Unfortunately their hardihood is not to be depended on, 
and they can only be trusted as conservatory plants 
here, or to be budded and grown as standards in large 
pots. Beatuiful varieties are Grecillei or the Seven 
Sisters, Laure Devoust, Rubra, Elegans, and Alba, which 
will make a grateful return for whatever protection it 
may be thought fit to bestow upon them. 

Of Fortune's Yellow, the high-spirited traveller himself 
complains : — " In the first volume of the Journal of the 
Horticultural Society, I noticed the discovery and 
introduction of a very beautiful yellow or salmon- 
coloured rose. I had been much struck with the effects 
produced by it in the gardens of Northern China, where 
it was greatly prized, and I had no doubt that it would 
succeed equally well in this country. But from some 
cause — probably ignorance as to its habits, or the 
treatment required — my favourite "Wang- Jan- Ye, as the 
Chinese call it, was cried down. It had been planted in 
situations where it was either starved or burnt up ; 
and in return for such unkind treatment, the pretty 
exotic obstinately refused to produce any but poor 
miserable flowers. Then the learned in such matters 
pronounced it quite unworthy of a place in our gardens 
amongst English roses ; and I believe, in many instances, 
it was either allowed to die, or was dug up and thrown 
away. Eive or six years had elapsed since the introduc- 
tion of this fine climber, and it had never been seen in 
its proper garb. But the results in two places proved 
it to be a rose nearly as rampant as the old Ayrshire, 
quite hardy, and covered from the middle of May with 
hundreds of large loose flowers, of every shade between 
a rich reddish-buff and a full copper-pink. The old 
standard plants in the open ground vrere one mass of 



SHEUBEY AUTD SUE-SHEUBEY ELOWEES. 



14:9 



bloom, the heads of each being more than lour feet 
through. The successful cultivators would inform you 
that no great amount of skill was necessary in order 
to bring the rose into this state. It is perfectly hardy, 
scrambling over old wails ; but it requires a rich soil, 
and plenty of room to grow. The Chinese say that 
night-soil is one of the best manures to give it. Only 
fancy a wall completely covered with many hundred 
flowers, of various hues, — yellowish, salmon, and bronze- 
like, and then say what rose we have in the gardens of 
this country so striking ; and how great would have been 
the pity if an introduction of this kind had been lost, 
through the blighting influence of such ignorance and 
prejudice as have been shown by the person to whose 
care it was first intrusted." It would thus appear that 
even roses, at the commencement of a promising career, 
are subject to the ill-will of envious enemies, who try 
to put them down, and to keep them in the back- 
ground. 

Useful, hardy, and vigorous Hybrid Climbing Hoses, 
of unknown or uncertain origin, are Madame d' Arblay, or 
Wells's White, raised by Mr. Wells, of Eedleaf, Tonbridge 
"Wells, a blush rose, which attains a gigantic growth in 
strong soils ; the Garland, changing from pink to white 
after expansion, also raised by Mr. Wells ; and Sir Johi 
Sebright, raised by Mr. Eivers from Italian seed, which 
produces an abundance of very fragrant flowers in large 
clusters, of a light vivid crimson, nearly double. The 
brilliant hue of the blooms of the last is rare and valu- 
able amongst Climbing Eoses, as their prevailing hues 
are white and pale pink. To the above may be added 
Astrolabe, with very double, compact, bright-rose 
flowers, and Watts' s Climbing Provence, really a good 
flower, double, opening well, full pink with the slightest 
tinge of purple, and richly and somewhat peculiarly 
scented. 

There are several very distinct species of exquisite 
Eoses, from insular and continental Asia, which merit 
all attention as conservatory climbers, on trellises in 



150 



THE ELOWEB GAEDEIS". 



large pots, or against a south wall, according to their 
degree of robustness ; but they are none of them suited 
for wintering in the open garden. 

The White Chinese Anemone-flowered Hose (all that is 
simple and pure in bloom, and neat in foliage), is not 
sufficiently known to be appreciated. R. microplnfUa, 
or the small-leaved Rose, "a decided curiosity," accord- 
ing to Mr. Paul, bears most voluptuous rosy flowers 
amidst delicate foliage ; yet it is, like the cuckoo-bird, 
seldom seen, though often heard of. " The leaves are 
composed of numerous small leaflets, sometimes as mam- 
as fifteen ranging on the sides of the petiole ; the 
branches are of a whitish brown, the outer bark often 
peeling off in autumn. They are almost destitute of 
prickles ; but the broad sepals of the calyx are densely 
covered with them, owing to which the flower-buds are 
as rough as a hedgehog. The Microphylla appears to 
delight in a warm sandy soil ; it is [more than] rather 
tender, and requires a wall to insure the production of 
its flowers in full beauty. It requires very little prun- 
ing. JSTo varieties have yet been raised to surpass the 
original." 

The original single Rosa bract eat a was brought from 
China by Lord Macartney, on his return from his em- 
bassy, and was, in" consequence, named the Macartney 
Rose ; this, though single, is showy, and very desirable for 
its apricot-like perfume, its ivory petals, its late period of 
flowering, and its singular, shining, evergreen foliage. 
It is somewhat hardier than the preceding Asiatic 
Eoses, but still should be indulged with a trellis 
against a south wall. Maria Leonida corresponds to the 
above with considerable exactness, except that its 
creamy-white flowers are double. In fact, it is the 
Double Macartney: others have been raised, but they 
are not to be warmly recommended. Apropos of the 
Macartney, Mr. Eivers says, " I think it not too much 
to anticipate that, ultimately, we shall not be satisfied 
unless all our roses, even the Moss Eoses, have ever- 
green foliage, brilliant and fragrant flowers, and the 



SHECBBY ASD STTE-SHEUEEY FLOWEES. 151 

habit of blooming from June to Xovember. This seems 
to be an extravagant anticipation ; but perseverance in 
gardening will yet achieve wonders." The first Double 
Macartney raised from seed is totally worthless, its 
flowers constantly dropping off without opening : while 
Maria Leonida is now an established favourite. R. ber~ 
lerifolia Hardii is a most interesting rose, raised from 
seed by M. Hardy, of the Luxembourg Gardens, from R. 
involucrata, a variety of JR. hr act eat a, fertilized with that 
unique rose. JR. berberifolia, or the Single Yellow Persian 
Eose. This curious hybrid, like its Persian parent, has 
single bright-yellow flowers with a dark eye, a deep- 
chocolate spot at the bottom of each petal, much like 
Cistus formosus, and evergreen foliage. It is not quite 
hardy. It will probably be the parent of an entirely 
new group ; and what can be imagined more interesting 
in roses than varieties with double yellow fl-owers and 
evergreen leaves ? 

Autumnal and Winter Eoses may be divided into two 
grand battalions, — the perfectly hardy and hard-wooded 
kinds, of stiff and moderate growth : and the free-growing, 
softer-wooded sorts, tenderer in various degrees, accord- 
ing to constitution, comprising the JVoisettes, the Bourbons, 
the Chinese, the Tea-scented, and the Fairy or Laurencean 
Roses. 

Of the former, the Scotch Stanwell Perpetual has been 
mentioned. A first-rate flower is Tlie Crimson Perpetual, 
or Rose du Roi, or Lee's Crimson Perpetual, perfect in 
form, full pink, finely scented. It requires cutting back 
freely every year, and highly-manured soil, as do all the 
autumnals. The reputed parent of this great beauty is 
the Portland, or Pcestan, or Four Seasons Rose, a bright 
semi-double fragrant flower, which deserves cultivation, as 
it will put forth welcome blooms in 2s ovember. Hybrid 
Perpetuals are more in-number than excellence ; to open 
weh\ they must not be too double, and the petals must 
have a peculiar texture ; otherwise they are glued together 
by the dews and rain ; and the blooms, instead of ex- 
panding, fall off in the shape of a mouldy ball. This is 



152 



THE ELOWER GARDEK. 



the great fault of The Queen (a fine flower) in the climate 
of England. Madame Lqffay and 'Prince Albert \ both 
crimson, are good. Julie de Krudner and La Favorite 
are delicate pink, fragrant, and pretty. Gelina Bubos, 
nearly white, deserves favour, as a sporting branch from 
the Crimson Perpetual. The Geant des JBatailles, deep 
bright crimson ; Comte BobrinsTcy, vivid scarlet ; Gloire 
de Posomanes, velvety crimson-scarlet; Comte de Hon- 
talivet, violet and red ; Sir John Franklin, Gloire de la 
France, JBaronne Hallez, Alexandrine Bachmeteff, Paul 
JDuprez, Triomphe de Paris, and General Castellane, all 
rich crimson ; Jules Margottin and Lady Alice Peel, 
cherry- colour, are all admirable. 

The Bourbon Roses, derived from the original bright 
pink, semi-double lie de Bourbon, are very persevering 
bloomers, with handsome foliage, of free growth mostly <, 
The following will give satisfaction : — Madame Besprez, 
double, pink, globular, in clusters, with very vigorous 
growth, and of great hardiliood, — a most useful rose, either 
for a standard, a wall, or a pillar ; Souvenir de Malmaison, 
a magnificent flesh-coloured vigorous rose ; The Queen of 
the Bourbons, delicate pinky bulf, double, and very fra- 
grant ; Paul Joseph, rich dark crimson, a remarkable 
flower, of moderate growth, thriving best as a dwarf ; 
Acidalie, white ; Menoux, carmine ; Bupetit Thours and 
La Quintinie, dark crimson. 

The Noisette Poses, whose original, the Blush, was 
raised from American seed, are named after the Prench 
nurseryman to whom they owe their introduction. The 
Blush met at first with undue favour ; in this country it 
opens badly in damp weather, and is injured by severe 
winters, as are most of its progeny. They are free 
growers, bloom abundantly and late, but are mostly defi- 
cient in odour. Good varieties are : — Aimee Vibert, pure 
white, with glossy light-green foliage ; Fellenberg, semi- 
double, bright cherry ; Jaime Besprez, fawn-coloured or 
salmon-pink, very rampant in growth, should have its 
spring shoots stopped when about two feet long, very 
fragrant, rather tender, safest against a wall ; La Biche, 



SHFXBBT A.yD SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWEES. 153 



large and white; Lamarque, pale straw-colour; Cloth of 
Gold, or Chromatella, creamy white with yellow centre ; 
Sir Walter Scott, rosy lilac ; Solfaterre, creamy white, 
with a bright sulphur centre ; besides others, as Octavie, 
Ophirie, Cerise, and Ticomtesse cVAvesne. Many of the 
latest-flowering X oisettes are loose in their blooms, which 
is a merit in them, as they open with less difficulty. In- 
experienced gardeners are apt to prune their Xoisettes, 
and other vigorous-growing roses, too freely ; if cut back 
too severely, they will produce -foliage instead of flowers, 
year after year. Instances of the effects of such ill- 
treatment may be seen in the suburban villas that sur- 
round large cities, where people get ignorant jobbing 
gardeners to prune their roses by the year, the result 
being a collection of verdant standards with flowers to be 
hoped for when the good time comes. 

Those invaluable roses the Common Pink Cliina, or 
Monthly JRose, JR. Indica, and the Crimson China, JR. 
semperflorens, whose flowers grace the cottage-garden 
nearly all the year round, have given birth to numerous 
beautiful offspring, which are more adapted for pot-plants, 
or for bedding, than as standards. Many of them, though 
hardy at root, are cut down to the ground by severe frost, 
or if not so cut down, require close pruning. Against a 
wall they will often cover a considerable area. Alba, 
white, double ; Cramoisie JEblouissante, vivid crimson ; 
Fabrier, crimson scarlet ; Belle JEmelie, blush ; Madame 
Br eon, rich rose ; Mrs. Bosanquet, blush ; Eugene Beau- 
harnais, rosy purple ; Clara Syhain and Madame Bureau, 
white; Carmin Superbe, or a? Yebles, raised by M. Desprez, 
deep carmine ; and Prince Charles, brilliant crimson, will 
constitute a good and select collection. 

The Blush was the first Tea-scented China JRose — JR. 
Indica odor at a — introduced to this country, followed by 
the Yellow China. They are good ; and we now have 
others of great excellence. All are more fitted for pots 
and greenhouses than for out-door culture; they are 
grateful for light rich soil, good drainage, warmth accom- 
panied by moisture, an atmosphere not liable to extremes 



154 



THE ELOWEE GAEDEF. 



of temperature, and bold yet judicious pruning. When 
they can be grown outdoors in a south border, there is a 
perceptible heightening of their tints and perfume. 
Choice varieties are Bevoniensis, creamy white, raised by 
Mr. Poster, of Plymouth ; Safrano, pale yellowish buff; 
Souvenir d\in Ami, rosy salmon; Adam, ditto, very 
superb ; Goubault, bright pink, very sweet ; Bougere, 
deep salmon, a good pot-rose, forces well ; Yicomtesse de 
Cazes, bright orange-yellow, very beautiful ; Moiret, 
yellowish fawn ; Flise Sauvage, pale yellow ; Josephine 
Motion, rich cream-colour ; and La Benommee, white, 
with a pale-lemon centre. These are the roses to culti- 
vate in frames and greenhouses, for late-autumn, winter, 
and early spring. Some (as Burbot, cream, suffused with 
rose and salmon ; Princesse Marie, rosy pink ; Peine des 
Beiges, Princesse Selene, and others) force well, although 
uncertain (that is, certain to fail) out of doors. They 
give a little trouble to grow them well ; but then, how 
lovely and exquisite they are ! 

The Fairy or Miniature Moses are the Pompons of the 
China group. They may be made to serve as an edging, 
in favourable spots ; in that case, cut them back to 
within two inches of the ground every spring. In pots 
they must be cut back freely ; quite to the ground every 
other year, and shifted. The young wood will make 
handsome little bushes, and bear abundant bloom in long 
succession. The Blusli, or ITairy, is the most generally 
cultivated ; Alba, Blanc, or the White Fairy, is still 
smaller, but delicate ; La JDesiree is crimson ; Pompon 
Bijou, pale pink ; Gloire des Laurenceanas is dark crim- 
son, and contrasts well with the above. 

All roses, to do themselves justice, must have a rich 
soil ; many are even gross feeders. The hardier and 
robuster kinds do well in deep alluvial loams, and will 
not object to heavy clayey land if well manured, and not 
too wet and cold. The Chinas, and many of the Hybrids, 
when on their own roots, must have a lighter, warmer, 
better-drained soil, with a considerable proportion of sand 
and rotten animal and vegetable remains. In theory, all 



SHRUBBY AND SUB- SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 155 

roses may be propagated by cuttings ; in practice, non- 
professional gardeners find certain kinds, such as the 
Mosses, the Provence, and the Cabbage Yellow, of 
a difficulty which approaches the impossible. Many 
Hybrids, the Bourbons, the Chinas, the Noisettes, and 
others, strike readily, especially if assisted by a hand-light 
and bottom -heat. Species, like the Cabbage Yellow, 
which will neither bud nor strike well, must be increased 
by layers, the shoot being "tongued." The grafting of 
roses is mostly practised by market-gardeners, for forcing 
for sale. Immediately the stocks are taken from the 
hedges in January or February, they may be grafted 
and potted in the forcing-house, or in a gentle hotbed in 
a common frame. But by far the most prevalent mode 
of propagation is by budding on the Rosa Canina, or 
common Dog Hose, which is much the best for general 
purposes. Others, as the Rosa Manettii (a rampant 
variety raised in Italy), the Boiirsanlts, the R. alba, and 
the Common China, have been recommended for special 
purposes by high authority ; in which advice the writer 
takes the liberty of cautioning the reader not to place 
too much confidence. The robust "Red, Red Rose" of 
Scotland, which grows so vigorously in the valleys of the' 
Grampians, merits a fair and extensive trial as a stock 
whereon to bud vigorous varieties. Wild rose stocks are 
now an article of commerce. By giving an order to 
proper persons, you may obtain a supply to any reason- 
able amount. The nearer home they are found, and the 
sooner they are replanted in your nursery the better. 
November is the month of months for the purpose. Let 
them be clean-stemmed, well-rooted, and taken from an 
exposed situation. Remove all straggling roots and 
whatever is likely to sprout into suckers. Plant them 
at exactly the same depth as you observe them to have 
grown in their native site. Pasten each individual stock 
either to a stake of its own, or to a long horizontal twig 
supported at each end by two upright posts. In spring, 
watch the swelling buds that show themselves the whole 
way up the stem. "When they are about a quarter of an 



156 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



inch long, cut off all but two, which will be allowed to 
grow, to be budded, at the height required, selecting 
strong healthy buds, as near to and as opposite to each 
other as possible. Into these the whole vigour of the 
briar will be directed. 

Budding may be performed from June to September. ■ 
Suppose that in July, after a thunderstorm, you receive 
a twig of a matchless rose. Take it in your left hand ; 
look out for a plump, healthy, dormant bud ; cut off the 
leaf, leaving half an inch of the footstalk ; insert your knife 
a quarter or a third of an inch above the bud ; cut down- 
wards, and bring it out a quarter of an inch below ; remove 
with your thumb-nail the woody portion, leading a small 
shield of bark with a bud in the centre. This is the bud you 
want to make grow on your briar. To keep it moist, 
while you are preparing its new resting-place, you may 
drop it, if you like, into a glass of water ; a snugger and 
more convenient receptacle is at hand — your mouth. 
Mr. Rivers says : — " The operation of budding is difficult 
to describe. A longitudinal cut, not so deep as to cut 
into the wood, but merely through the bark, should be 
made in the clear part of the shoot ; thus, A* , making the 
diagonal cut at the top of the incision. I differ from 
most of those who have given directions for budding, as 
they make the incision thus, T ; my practice has arisen 
from the frequent inconvenience sustained by shoots, 
from standard stocks k being broken off by the wind when 
the cut is made at right angles : with the diagonal in- 
cision an accident rarely happens." Any suggestion 
from Mr. Rivers demands respectful attention; it is 
therefore mentioned here, before proceeding with our 
oivn instructions. 

On the branch to be budded, make two slits in the 
bark like the two straight lines which form the letter T. 
The perpendicular stroke will run along the branch, and 
terminate where it springs from the main stem ; it must 
be a little longer than the bud you intend to insert. 
The horizontal stroke will be formed by a cut across the 
branch, and must be a little wider than the bud you want 



SHBTJBBY AND SrB-SHBTTBBY ITOWEBS. 157 



to put in. You must just cut through the bark, without 
dividing the wood beneath. Cut those slits with a pen- 
knife on a piece of paper, or on any fresh twig whose 
bark peels readily, and you will instantly see what their 
object is. "With the handle of your budding-knife, gently 
push or lift the bark on each side of the perpendicular 
slit, or stem of the T, so as to cause it to rise. Or, you 
may do it with your thumb-nails. As fingers were made 
before knives and forks, so thumb-nails were invented 
before ivory-handled budding-knives. Do nothing that 
can injure or irritate the interior of the wound. If you 
poke inside it for half an hour, and plough up the skin, 
you will injure its delicate organization, and in nine cases 
out of ten you may whistle for your bud. Instead of 
that, the bark once raised, take the bud out of your 
mouth, and slip it in gently till it reaches its place. Be 
as quick as if you wished to spare your patient's suffer- 
ings. It is really a surgical operation. The bud once 
settled between the divided bark, bind up the wound 
with a ligature of softest lamb's wool. Mr. Eivers 
advises cotton twist, such as the tallow-chandlers use for 
the wicks of candles ; the finest quality is best. This is 
certainly far preferable to the bast matting commonly 
used ; but, with deference to that gentleman, not to 
lamb's wool, which is more elastic than cotton twist. If 
you have not been clumsy, the bud will grow ; and then 
you must unbind it, and let nothing else grow on the 
briar either at top or bottom. At the end of two or 
three summers you will have a handsome-headed rose- 
tree, from which you may gather basketfuls of bouquets, 
if you prune it properly, — which sometimes consists in 
abstaining from pruning it. For more about the Rose, see 
" Paul's Bose Garden," and Bivers's " Eose Amateur's 
Guide." Distilled rose-water is an excellent wash when 
the eyes, not the eyelids, are inflamed by cold winds and 
dust. 

Syringa — Mock orange, Philadelphus coronarius. — A 
bush, with deciduous leaves white strong-scented 
flowery, mostly propagated by suckers. 



158 



THE FLOWEB GARDEN . 



Tecoma radicans — Trumpet-flower, a vigorous creeper, 
with bunches of long cinnabar-red flowers. Must have 
a south aspect, is best propagated by cuttings from the 
root. 

VirgirCs Bower — Clematis montana, Viticella, and its 
varieties, are hardy climbers, pretty when trained over 
lattice-work, and grow easily from cuttings. 

Wallflower — Cheirantlras Clieiri. — The single varieties, 
which are the most odoriferous, are raised from seed. 
There are yellow, brown, and purple Double "Wallflowers, 
propagated by cuttings : severe frost kills them. To 
make sure, choice large-flowered single kinds may also be 
increased by cuttings. Keep a reserve of cuttings in 
pots every winter. 

Weigela Rosea — A charming, perfectly hardy, wide- 
spreading shrub, from China, covered in spring with gay 
pink flowers. A great acquisition. Mostly propagated 
by layers. 

Winter Flower. — Cliimonantlius fragrans, from Japan, 
whose sweet-scented flowers appear before the leaves. 

Wistaria — Purple Laburnum. — Half-hardy trailing 
shrubs, requiring the support of a wall, producing in 
spring drooping racemes of light-purple or lilac sweet- 
scented flowers. In light rich soil, sometimes flowers 
twice a year. 

Yucca — Adam's Xeedle. — In appearance, something 
between dwarf Palm-trees and Aloes, with evergreen 
leaves, and white flowers borne in enormous numbers on 
tall flower-stems. T. gloriosa, filament 'osa, and draconis, 
are hardy in England. Propagate by seed and by rooted 
sucker-sprouts. 

A>~XTJA.L ELOWEES. 

These, with biennials, and bedding-plants, constitute a 
legion of auxiliaries, which help to keep the garden gay. 
There is no room here except to mention the names of 
Amaranth, Aster, Balsam, Convoholus. Coreopsis, ClarJcia, 
Cuphcea, Gillia, Hawk weed, Heliotrope, Hibiscus Trio- 



FLOWERHfG TEEES 



159 



num, Hound"* s-tongue, Honesty. Jacobcea, Lupine. Love- 
in-a-Mist, Larkspur, Love-lies-bleeding, Marigold, Marvel 
of Peru, Mallow, Mignonnette, Xemophila, Xolana, Pea. 
Petunia, Poppy, Picinus, Schizanthus, Salpiglossis, Stocks, 
Stramonium, Sunjlower, Spurge, Tobacco, Yetcli, Venus' s 
Looking-glass, Verbena, Virginian Stock, Zinnia. The 
nurserymen annually put forth most admirable and 
tempting lists, from which to select. There is also 
amusement to be derived from not selecting, but to take 
your chance of what you get. Thus, Thomas Yeitch and 
Co., Western Counties Seed Depot, 195, High Street, 
Exeter, offer Collections of Pretty Flower-Seeds, in 
twelve varieties, at one, two, and three shillings the 
collection, according to quality and quantity. Some of 
the Catalogues are really worth reading, for instruction's 
sake. 

TLOWEEIXG- TEEES. 

Acacia, Almond {Double and Single), Arbutus, Catalpa r 
Cherry {Double), Crals, Elder, Horse-Chesnut, Judas 
Tree, Magnolia, Mountain Ash, Paulownia, Peach 
{Double and Weeping), Bobinia, Snowdrop-tree, Sophora, 
The Tlwrns, Tulip-tree, and others , 



THE CALENDAR: 



MONTHLY HINTS IN FLORICULTURE. 



OCTOBEE. 

If you enter upon a new tenancy, and are become the 
possessor of an old-established garden, in the first place 
look carefully round, to see what you have visible in it ; 
and, secondly, delay any great changes or clearances tiU 
at least six or eight months have elapsed, and spring and 
summer shall have made you acquainted with whatever 
treasures may now lie concealed underground. Often, 
by forbearance in such cases, you become the master of 
specimens that would cost you years and years to rear ; 
and sometimes, by merely turning the earth of an ancient 
border, you bring to light and vitality the seeds of rare 
plants that have lain buried for years. Read carefully 
the Calendar to our "Kitchen Garden." Plant hya- 
cinths and other bulbs, if you did not do so last month. 
Look to your chrysanthemums in pots; see that they 
are regularly watered and neatly sticked, ready to be 
brought indoors at the first threat of a frosty night. 
Cut half-opened chrysanthemum-blooms, a few from each 
variety you have ; reserve them in water, under shelter 
and warmth, and you may often produce a handsome 
bouquet when outdoor flowers are completely destroyed. 
Lay out all your planting arrangements for next month ; 
prepare the holes, where the ground is vacant, and have 
ready the requisite soils and manures. Cut down dahlia- 
stems as soon as the frost has blackened them ; leave the 
tubers a little longer in the ground, to ripen. Clear 
away the leaves and stems of tender annuals as soon as 
they have shared the fate of the dahlias; chrysan- 



THE CALENDAB. 



161 



themums, evergreens, and berry-bearing shrubs, will 
then show themselves to advantage. Save any well- 
ripened seed you may find ; it will increase your stock of 
gardening capital. Sow annuals, such as Nemophilas, to 
stand the winter, and flower in spring. Pot off sepa- 
rately cuttings that have been struck during summer, 
whether they are to be wintered in a cold frame, or 
whether they are to be forced for spring flowers, such as 
China and tea-scented roses, double wall-flowers, calceo- 
larias, winter jessamine, and Deutzias. Provide instantly 
comfortable lodgings for such greenhouse plants, out in 
beds, as you do not mean to abandon to the mercies of 
Old Father Xipnose ; and remove them forthwith to their 
winter quarters. Look to your spouts and gutters over- 
head, and see that your drains do their underground 
work. Do not forget that heliotropes, verbenas, arid 
their like, are liable to the disease of " damping off." 
Take up gladiolus, tigridia, and other tender bulbs. 

NOVEMBER 

Employ the long evenings in studying books, pam- 
phlets, and periodicals connected with your profession. 
There is no royal road to floriculture ; a poet may be 
bom, but a gardener is made such. Keep an eye on your 
natives from the Island of Tender. Eemove the earth 
from the ground which any projected American bed is to 
occupy, with the intention of filling the hollow with 
heath-mould when frosty weather comes to help your 
carting. Plant everything hardy ; roses, flowering shrubs, 
flowering trees, evergreens, edgings, herbaceous peren- 
nials, and whatever will stand the winter. Take up 
dahlia-roots, and house them in a cellar secure from frost. 
Think of whatever dielytras, bulbs, polygalas, azaleas, 
moss roses, and the rest- of it, which you may want to 
force, so as to have in flower in the course of March. 
Let all pots and pans, which have been used during 
summer and are now enjoying their holidays, be well 
washed and scrubbed with a brush, and then set to dry 

31 



162 



THE ELOWEB GABDEtf. 



in an oven hot enough to bake all the germs of weeds, 
insects, and moss ; let them then take their rest in a 
recumbent position, one within the other, not standing 
upright. Plant tulip-beds. Mulch liberally the roots 
of whatever you merely suspect will be the better for 
it, whether passion-flowers, Tecomias, Brugmansias, 
Macartney microphylla and multiflora roses, or clianthus 
and hibiscus ; if you can thereby save and secure only 
one fine specimen out of half a dozen, you will be amply 
rewarded. Sweep up leaves from your walks and grass- 
plots, as if you were afraid you should never, never have 
leaf-mould enough. Dragging a garden-roll is capital 
gymnastic exercise ; and your grass-plots and gravel- 
walks will be very much the better for it. Carefully 
cultivate the foliage of Cape bulbs and others that have 
flowered in autumn. See that such plants as take their 
rest now, be allowed to enjoy it undisturbed, without 
having their slumbers broken by unnecessary warmth 
and moisture ; on the other hand, administer moderate 
refreshment and heat to such, as the cyclamens, which 
are beginning to wake up. Lay down turf for lawns and 
grass edgings. Put a covering of dead leaves, fern, 
furze, or light litter, over whatever wants it out of doors. 
Mind your Alpines. Give all the air you can at every 
favourable quarter of an hour. Keep grass short ; you 
will sweep up your rubbish all the more easily. Stake 
and tie new-planted strangers : they are none the better 
for being rocked about by the wind. Trench and manure 
ground for next year's gross feeders, such as hollyhocks, 
dahlias, and perpetual roses. 

DECEMBER 

Pbocure and plant rose-stocks for budding. See 
that they have well-ripened wood, of whatever species 
they may be. If of the common dog-rose, prefer such 
as have grown in exposed situations, to the smooth 
green stems drawn up under trees. A garden may be 
enjoyed in winter as well as in summer — think of that 



THE CALENDAR. 



163 



Tidiness is the first point of comfort in a pleasure- 
ground ; after rightsiding everything, try what show you 
can make with evergreens and Christmas favourites. 
What is the condition of your hepaticas, winter aconites, 
snowdrops, crocuses, Christmas roses, and Mediterra- 
nean heaths ? Have you the Winter Jessamine, the 
Chimonanthus fragrans, and the Yernal Squill ? Will 
you want any cinerarias, Chinese primroses, forced 
bulbs, or camellias, for the drawing-room ? You may 
prune now hardy roses, — the moss, Provence, Gal- 
lica, damask, Scotch, crimson perpetuals, and other 
equally robust kinds ; leave the rest, to see how they 
look at the end of February. Moss is a good covering 
for the roots of tender things. Are your alterations 
nearly finished r Dress well, and dig deep, beds that 
have been hard cropped with flowers during the current- 
year ; the parterre must have manure and rotation of 
crops, as well as the wheat-field. Cover your frames 
with mats and boards, if the frost comes sharp. Divide 
and transplant stools of herbaceous perennials, such as 
rockets and salvias, which have already flowered finely, 
and have been admired, and which will not bloom finely 
nor be admired twice in the same place ; if you don't, 
where you once had a beauty, you will next time have a 
symbol of shabbiness and neglect. Boots grow now, 
though leaves may grow little, or not at all ; a plant will 
bloom all the better if, in spring, it finds itself provided 
with a nice tuft of fibrous roots, than if, when spring 
i3 arrived, those desirable fibres are still to be formed. 
Sort your seeds ; look over your tubers ; exchange with 
your neighbours ; study your Chronicle ; sing the air of 
"Away with melancholy!" to the words of "Away 
with damp and mildew ! " Eestrain rampant stragglers, 
and throw them into flower by roctf-pruning, leaving the 
tops much as they are. Manufacture heath-mould for 
your Americans, if none is to be had within reasonable 
carting distance. Pay frequent visits to your specimen- 
plants, whether in the open air or under shelter ; large 
myrtles, in tubs, may be wintered in a coach-house, if 

M 2 



164 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



allowed to enjoy all the light and air admissible. Prepare 
sticks and stakes, and repair trellises, verandahs, lattice- 
work, rock-work, and arbours, now that the plants which 
decorate them are dormant. 

JANUARY. 

The work now mainly depends on the weather ; but 
N.B. you have not so much time before you as you had 
in December. Look over your cold frames ; give all the 
air you dare, and dust with flowers of sulphur at the first 
symptom of mildew. Tour hyacinths in pots will be 
starting. Look sharp after wood-lice, slugs, and aphides ; 
an ounce or two of Scotch snuff are well bestowed in 
doctoring the last. "Slow and sure" is the motto to 
affix over the portal of the forcing department. How 
are you off for silver-sand, pasture-loam, rotted cow, 
sheep, and rabbit manure, peat-earth, defunct and cold 
cucumber-beds, and good alluvial loam with a touch of 
clay in it ? For horses, shut up in their stables during 
this dead season, slow carting is a healthy treat. What 
is the substance which Liebig and other learned men 
call "humus," and the French gardeners style " ter- 
reau?" What are its composition, uses, and applica- 
tion ? Do you think you could contrive to compound a 
little " humus ? " If a supply of it had not been made 
by somebody before your time, horticultural prospects 
would not look so bright as they do. See to your supply 
of pots, pegs, and labels. Thin out flowering shrubs, 
where too crowded. Keep everything indoors fresh, neat, 
dr}r, and well ventilated ; under cover, at least, you may 
do nearly as you please. Call over your muster-roll for 
next summer's campaign ; nurse the invalids in hospi- 
tal, take care of the healthy, train the undisciplined, 
keep down the upstarts, restrain the wanderers without 
being afraid of pinching them hard, bury the dead 
decently, and raise up a new generation with all your 
might and main. Don't work the ground when it is 
sodden, muddy, or rendered sticky by a recent frost ; 



ERE G£jL£2U>AB. 



165 



don't dig in snow or ice, for they will chili your borders 
for weeks to come. Level turf, where its uneveuness 
threatens to interfere with mowing. Protect tulip-beds 
where the leaves are beginning to peep aboveground ; 
also autumn-planted ranunculuses ; hyacinths likewise. 
Cover them with hoops and mats, or canvass, when frost 
threatens to be at all severe. Don't suffer snow to lie 
on your walks. Search for the winter sleeping-places of 
snails. Air, cleanliness, and shelter from excessive wet, 
are necessary to the health of Carnations and Picotees. 
Think well what you mean to do next spring, and 
arrarjge accordingly; observe in ichicJi department you 
are strongest; endeavour to improve that to the utmost; 
make it your war-horse, your charger, your show collec- 
tion, your speciality. 

FEBEUAET. 

Petite and tie in climbers on walls and trellises, such 
as honeysuckles, clematises, birthworts, and American 
allspices. Plant ranunculus-beds. Sow sand on lawns, 
to make the grass come fine ; roll them, to kill moss ; 
mow them, to make them thick and elastic. Look over 
your Noisette, Bourbon, Hybrid China, and other free- 
growing autumnal roses ; prune them moderately , # thin- 
ning them out, but leaving the principal shoots long. Pray 
don't cut them back to two or three eyes, unless you pre- 
fer leaves to flowers. Now is the last time of asking, for 
planting ornamental trees and shrubs. Make sure that 
your supply of bedding-plants is likely to correspond to 
the demand for them. Eernove dahlia-roots from their 
winter quarters, and put them into heat for propagation. 
Sow in small pots Maurandyas, Lophospermums, and 
other climbing annuals, to get strong by May. Do the 
same with sweet-peas, scarlet-runners, major convolvo- 
luses, nasturtiums, and other less rare but popular 
flowers. Pinish off every atom of undone winter work, 
and keep that belonging to spring close up to the mark, 
that you may have your hands at liberty to answer the 



166 



THE ELOWEE &AEDEX. 



requirements of April, May, and June, when you will 
want every day to be six-and-thirty hours long. Make 
hotbeds for tender annuals : the list is long. Select a 
few striking, effective, unusual kinds, and display them 
in a large assemblage, rather than fritter away your 
strength on a multitude of incongruities. The ice- 
plant makes a remarkable bed in a south border ; zinnias, 
balsams, and ipomoeas, are good in their way. Trim 
grass edgings with a proper cutter : fill up any vacant 
gaps in borders of thrift, gentianella, dwarf campanula, 
double daisies, primroses, sedums, &c. Plant out seed- 
ling hollyhocks, in well-manured ground, where they are 
to bloom ; strike cuttings of approved sorts. Xever, for 
a single instant, forget the vast abyss of flowering plants 
which you will shortly be compelled to fill somehow, 
well or ill. If any choice novelties have lately come 
out, and are likely to be the rage, now is the time to 
make sure of them ; by-and-by you may have for 
answer to your application, that w the execution of 
further orders must stand over till the following spring." 
Bedding-plants, propagated by yourself on the spot, in 
gentle heat, are worth double the number travelling 
from a distance, and forced at a high-pressure rate. 

MAKCH. 

Keep an eye on the jobbing gardener who undertakes 
to " right-side ; ' your suburban parterre in spring ; take 
care that he does not make it neat by making it empty ; 
that the beds, which he leaves so beautifully raked, have 
nothing but rubbish growing in them. Hard winters do 
not cause the disappearance of all choice flowers. Clip box 
edges at the beginning of the month, supposing that it 
is not freezing sharp ; turn a deaf ear to those who 
advise you to do it in June, or, infinitely worse, in 
September. Do all you can to remedy the ill effects of 
"February's sleet, slop, and rain. You may plunge in 
borders, or in beds (to be filled hereafter with scarlet 
geraniums, or verbenas), hyacinths, and tulips, and 



THE CALE>~DAE. 



167 



narcissuses in pots ; they may be removed to perfect 
their foliage in the reserve ground. Hardy annuals 
may now be sown in favourable weather. Take stock, 
as it were, and appreciate accurately all your resources 
in hand. Auriculas will now be coming forward ; give 
them a more liberal allowance of air and water. Tree 
Pa?onies require temporary shelter in this month and 
the next, if at any time. Prepare the ground for 
dahlias, by digging it deep and manuring highly. Tour 
stocks, China-asters, &c. &c, may now be sown under 
glass on a gentle hotbed. Finish pruning; cut your 
roses close to an eye by a clean stroke with a sharp 
knife, so as not to tear the bark. Above all, do not 
leave a long snag to die down to the bud ; the hollow 
left by its pith will serve as the retreat and resting- 
place of the detestable grubs which will destroy your 
buds. If your gardener prunes a standard-rose, or any 
other ornamental shrub, with a pair of shears, or slashes 
at them with a carving-knife, like a French Zouave 
paying his compliments to a party of skirmishing Cos- 
sacks, — for the first offence, make your shrub-slayer a 
present of an excellent buckhorn-handled pruning- 
knife : for the second, turn him out of doors, "to seek a 
shelter in an humbler shed." Disbud dog-rose stocks, 
leaving only those buds to shoot on which you intend to 
insert your bud. A covering of old fish-net, supported 
by hoops, over tulip, ranunculus, and hyacinth beds, 
does no harm. Have a peep at Kew, Chiswick, the 
Eegent's-Park Botanical, and the leading nurserymen 
about London. Let your gardener go too, if he is wide 
awake at the times when his eyes are usually open. But 
it is possible to visit even Kew, and to come away with a 
vague impression that it is a place where a few green- 
houses and hothouses are open to the public, gratis. 



168 



THE ILOWEE G-AEDEV. 



APEIL. 

Make everything smart to welcome summer ; gravel- 
walks rolled; beds neatly raked ; spring flowers shown 
to the best advantage ; not the ghost of a dead leaf 
remaining ; primings and trimmings swept away, to be 
burnt ; edgings trimmed and mended ; summer-houses 
and garden-seats painted, repaired, and cleansed from 
cobwebs ; tumble-down rockwork, dovetailed together 
again, and the wounds healed with kouseleek. lovechain, 
or saxifrage ; unsafe bridges rendered passable ; leaning 
Pisa-tower-like posts and palings restored to their proud 
perpendicular. '•'April showers bring May flowers ;" ; but 
if you don't sow and plant the flowers, they can't ; like- 
wise if you let them be scratched up by hens and pecked 
to morsels by sparrows. Therefore, any forgetf illness 
now, and previously, will rebuke you with its woful blank 
face staring at you by-and-by. Better provide yourself 
with too much than too little ; cuttings (with a little 
bit of root to them) of cupheas, verbenas, heliotropes, 
petunias, anagallises, fuschias, pansies. and many more, 
can always be exchanged, or given away. Tie the full- 
bloomed stems of hyacinths to sticks as you want them. 
Sow Phlox Drummondii in a little heat : it makes an 
exquisite bed. Make as sure as you can that wireworms 
do not attack your Carnations and Pieotees ; for this, the 
compost must have been looked over by handfuls. It 
may seem a long and expensive task to do so : but it is 
true economy, if you grow high-priced varieties. If your 
garden is decorated with vases, see that they are rilled 
with proper soil, and that you have wherewithal to plant 
in them. A mixture of plants with a long succession of 
bloom — some of pendent and trailing growth, others stiff 
and sub-shrubby like geraniums — produce the most 
artistic effect. Let your gardener look at a flower-piece 
painted by one of the first-rate masters, and he will 
catch the idea, if he is not a blockhead. He will see it 
well worked out at Kew. Water transplanted trees and 
shrubs, if drought threatens. Plant out wallflowers. 



THE CALI>~DAS. 



double rockets, and the perennial larkspurs, of which 
Delphinium Hendersoni is one of the finest. Do your 
best to obviate north-east winds and spring frosts. Attend 
to your dahlias, and to everything else that is now in 
the course of propagation. Sow successions of annuals ; 
weed, rake, hoe, and trim. 

MAY. 

Don't cut off the long shabby leaves of crocuses and 
other early bulbs. If you wish for flowers nest spring, 
you must leave them to wither on the plants. Eemove 
gradually their great-coats of straw, leaves, or fern, from 
t'uschias, tea-roses, &c. <£c., which have been kept snug 
during the winter. Towards the end of the month you 
will be thinking about venturing out your bedding-plants ; 
in fixing upon the exact time, the signs of the weather 
and your situation must guide you. It is better to be a 
week too late than a day too early. If you are near the 
coast, learn whether the warm water from the Gulf- 
stream has yet reached the shores of Britain ; if it has 
(and the owners of bathing-machines will be able to tell 
you), you may plant in safety, without nightmare dreams 
of nipping frosts. Sow anemone-beds, as directed in the 
body of the book. Eemove the awning from beds of 
hyacinths and tulips that have bloomed ; the ranunculuses 
will want it soon. Transplant half-hardy annuals to the 
ground, and whelm a flower-pot over them at night 
as a protection from frost, drought, and slugs, till they 
have taken hold of the ground and have made their 
start in life. Look over the patches of "hardies" 
sown last month, and repair any failures by sowing 
afresh. Plant out dahlias, if all is safe, on very rich and 
well-prepared soil. Freshen up your gravel-walks in 
dry weather, by chopping out with a hoe all weeds or 
grass that have intruded themselves ; rake the surface 
far several successive days, and then lay on a thin 
coat of new gravel, which must be made to combine 
the old by assiduous rolling. Save anemone-seed 



170 



THE FLOWER GABBED. 



as it ripens ; if you don't, it will all blow away. Stick 
pmks, carnations, picotees, and plants in general whose 
flower-stems are rising ; it is folly to take infinite pains 
to raise and cultivate a plant, and then to leave its bloom 
to draggle in the dirt. "Weed right and left ; break up 
with the rake and hoe the surface of any bed that has 
got hard and caked. "Watering is often more requisite 
now than at any other time of the year ; very, very 
weak, clear manure-water will sometimes be a great help ; 
but it must not be indiscriminately administered ; for 
instance, to rhododendrons and azaleas. 

JUNE. 

This is the time for the main planting-out of dahlias, 
heliotropes, and other tender South Americans. Look 
carefully over your roses ; their enemies are legion, — of 
insect vermin the host is fearful ; proper pruning is some 
preventive. The maggots, and worms, and caterpillars, 
and grabs, which attack the buds, must be picked out 
patiently with finger and thumb. Other remedies are 
best described by the syllables uttered by the domestic 
duck. Aphides are comparatively harmless, though un- 
sightly ; a thunderstorm proves an excellent cure for 
them. Eor want of a tempest, take the tip of each twig- 
in one hand, and with a painter's brush in the other, 
brush off the clustering parasites. They can't stand a 
repetition of this regimen. An amateur has invented a 
double aphis-brush, closing with a spring-handle, which, 
says the advertisement, in a very simple and easy manner, 
instantly cleanses the rose from that destructive insect 
the green-fly, without causing the slightest injury to the 
bud or the foliage. Finally, encourage lady-birds and 
the sightless grubs of lace-wing flies, which eat or rather 
suck the aphides. Some of your earliest spring bulbs 
will soon be fit to be taken up. Save seed from Auriculas 
and Polyanthuses. You must work hard now to keep 
things in order; grass has to be mowed, disbudding or 
summer pruning done by finger and thumb, and the 



THE OALENDAB. 



171 



whole contents of the garden watched, because nearly the 
whole contents are advancing at once. "Water still, if no 
summer showers have fallen. Thin out annuals where 
the j come up too thick. Attend daily to your plants in 
vases ; neglect now is almost irremediable. Hope to live 
to see next winter and spring, and provide for them by 
striking cuttings of roses, wallflowers, choice stocks, and 
whatever else is likely to be useful. The very trimmings 
and prunings may be economized in this way. Watch 
your beds of seedling anemones. Lose no time in strik- 
ing chrysanthemums for this autumn's bloom. Cuttings 
of the young shoots of pansies, rooted under a hand- 
glass, will make nice little plants by the autumn. Sow 
Brompton Stocks, Sweet Williams, Foxgloves, Canter- 
bury Bells, and other biennials which do not blow their 
first season. Peg down verbenas as they grow and spread. 
Lay bean-stalk traps for earwigs. Decide what seeds 
you will save, marking the stems of the flowers approved 
by tying a bit of coloured worsted round them. 

JULY. 

Take up hyacinths and other spring-flowering bulbs 
and tubers whose leaves are completely withered. After 
a soaking shower, bud roses ; perform the operation as 
lightly and as quickly as you can. If you could blow 
the bud in — presto ! — like a conjurer, you would succeed 
in nine hundred and ninety-nine cases out of a thousand. 
Tou may shade the bud afterwards by a laurel-leaf, if the 
sun comes out scorching. Save all sorts of seeds ; raise 
all sorts of cuttings : with many of them, it is " now or 
never." Still carefully tend your seedling anemones. 
Tou may take up old-established roots, as directed, if the 
leaves are quite withered, to be planted again as soon as 
you can. Tie the rising dahlias to their stakes; leave 
only a single stem, if they send up more than one; and 
cut out the bottom laterals and irregular shoots. The 
first two or three flowers are seldom good for anything ; 
it is as well to cut them out while still in the bud, that 



172 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



their successors may have the benefit of the sap. It will 
improve the summer roses, if, when they have quite done 
blooming, all the flower-shoots are cut back to the branch 
from which they started, unless it be desired to ripen 
hips, for seed. Train and tie in your vigorous creepers, 
weekly if possible. Mow grass-plots continually. Sup- 
port your hollyhocks, and see that the stakes are firmly 
fixed in the ground ; otherwise they will be as likely to 
pull down the flower-stems in a high gust of wind, as 
to keep them up. Pipe and layer carnations, pinks, and 
picotees. Take up tulips and ranunculuses. Help your 
autumnal roses by frequent doses of not too strong liquid 
manure. The garden is now in great beauty ; let it not 
be disfigured by slovenliness. Remove faded flowers, 
withered stems, and over-luxuriant weedy growths : their 
absence will make way for the many lovely blossoms that 
are yet to come. Attend to your pinks and carnations 
from which you intend saving seed. Pot off your struck 
chrysanthemums. Take care that bedding-plants of trailing 
habit do not encroach too far, overlapping and smothering 
box edgings, and inflicting on your parterre a wound 
which is not easy to heal. Tou will now begin to appre- 
ciate the value of Bourbon, Noisette, and Perpetual 
[Roses : treat them according to their deserts. Do not 
let a weed show a leaf, much less let it ripen seed. 

AUGUST. 

Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs will be beginning to 
arrive at the nurserymen's. Eemember, first come, first 
served. Try for the chance of selecting the finest roots. 
See that your dahlias and hollyhocks are not snapped by 
the wind for want of tying up as they advance. Shift 
chrysanthemums in pots to one size larger ; keep them 
frequently and freely watered. Tie those in the open 
ground to stakes. Save seeds, plant cuttings, and con- 
tinue to bud roses on favourable occasions. Now is the 
time to take up and divide the clusters of bulbs and off- 
sets of Spanish Irises, Crowns Imperial, Fritillaries, and 



THE CALENDAE. 



173 



others, which are none the better for being kept long out 
of the ground. We are beginning to turn a sort of gar- 
dening corner ; we may look two ways, behind and before 
lis ; but we have not yet time to pause and rest, for a 
grammatical lesson has to be learned by conjugating the 
verbs mow, rake, siceep, tvater, dig, roll, clean, and gather. 
Sow the seeds of choice primulas, polyanthuses, and auri- 
culas. Plant out rooted cuttings of pansies in a shady 
situation. Sow stocks for spring flowering. Visit the 
nurseries now, and select (before they have lost their 
foliage ; and mark, or number, so that you have not to 
scramble for them by-and-by, or be obliged to take 
just what others choose to leave you) ornamental shrubs 
for planting in November, to try the effect of a spring- 
flowering bed. Many valuable plants have been intro- 
duced, which were unknown to our fathers in their youth. 
Forsythia viridissima, from China, forms a thick bush, 
with deep-green leaves which are odoriferous when 
rubbed, and produces an abundance of brilliant-yellow 
bell-shaped flowers. Berber is Darwinii has shining ever- 
green leaves, and drooping spikes of golden florets. The 
Siberian Ehododendron (R. Dauricum atromrens) dis- 
plays its cheerful violet-pink blossoms in March. Rhodo- 
dendron ciliatum is a dwarf Himalayan species, with 
comparatively large and conspicuous white blossoms. 
Bhodora Canadensis (in heath-mould and shade) will 
put forth, before its leaves, a profusion of rose-scented, 
pinky-lilac blooms, which are exceedingly pretty, though 
not large in size. Eemember, too, Dwarf Almonds and 
double-blossomed Peaches, and what has been already 
written respecting Deutzia gracilis and scabra, and 
Jasminum nudiflorum. if we never regretted any money 
worse than what we spend on flowering shrubs 1 



174 



THE ELOWEB GABDEK. 



SEPTEMBEE. 

Plant imported bulbs of Van Thol and Parrot tulips, 
hyacinths, narcissuses, crocuses, snowdrops, and other 
hardy early-flowering genera, as soon as you can possibly 
get them home from the seedsman's shop. Eoses may 
still be budded with success; sometimes the latest 
budded do the best. Sow annuals to stand the winter. 
Make the most of your bedding-plants and half-hardy 
showy rambling things ; they may be in their glory, but 
their sun is fast preparing to set. Take every care of 
your dahlias and hollyhocks ; at the same time look for- 
ward to the Chrysanthemums. Eemember still that 
seeds will be wanted next spring. Pot off the first-struck 
cuttings of the season. Gather half-opened annual Ever- 
lastings, for winter bouquets. Take cuttings and make 
layers of such things as strike in winter. Admire the 
lovely objects with which you are now surrounded ; but 
bear in mind that a single night may deprive you of 
them, and that their beauty is but of a day. Be not 
selfish in your garden pleasures ; show, explain, and 
communicate freely ; and manifest by your manner, as 
well as by your money, your appreciation of those who 
prepare for you a PLEASTmE-GBOUtfD. 



INDEX. 



Aconite, winter, culture of the, 51. 
Aconitum, a tuberous flower, 63. 
Adam's needle, its culture, 153. 
Agapanthus umbeUatus, a bulbous 

flower, 22. 
Agrostemma coronaria, 76. 
Acanthus ziandulosus, its culture, 1-1 ; 

well adapted for towns, 15. 
Alder, culture of the. 13. 
Alstroemeria, varieties and culture of 

the, 73. 

Althaea frutex, its culture, and different , 

species, 107, 103. 
Althaea rosea hollyhock), its culture. 

83, 80. 

Amaryllis, a bulbous flower, 23. 
American all spice, description of, and , 

culture, 103, 109. 
Anagallis. varieties and culture of the, 

99. 

Anemone, does not blow well in town 
gardens, 12; its culture, 52; differ- 
ent species of, 54, 55. 

Anemone-flowered roses, white Chinese, 
150. 

Anemone hepatica, culture of the, 83. 

Annuals, that flourish in town gardens, 
10 ; in villa gardens, 13 ; alphabetical 
list of, 153 ; their names to be ob- 
tained from the nurseryman's cata- 
logue. 159- 

Antirrhinum majus, culture of the, 74. 

Apples, culture of, 15. 

April, noricultural operations during 
the month of, 163. 

Aquilegia vulgaris, culture of the. 

Aristoiochia birth wort , different 
species, and their culture, 1L0. 

Armeria vulgaris {thrift;, its culture, 
104. 

Arum, varieties and culture of the, 55. 
Asc-lepias, varieties and culture of, 75. ; 
Ash, weeping, 13. 

Aster Aipinus (Michaelmas daisy), 

culture of the, 96. 
August, noricultural operations during 

the month of, 172. 



Auricula, culture of the, 75. 
Austrian rose, 137. 

Autumnal roses, and their varieties. 
151. 

Ayrshire roses, and their varieties, 146. 
Azalea, its culture, 9, 109 ; the Chinese 
variety, ib. 

B. 

Banksia roses, 137 ; their varieties. 
147. 

Bath white moss roses, 134, 135. 

Bell-flower, the, 76. 

Bellis perennis, 81. 

Berberry, its garden uses, 110. 

Bignonia, its culture, 110. 

Birthwort, different specie". and 

culture, 110. 
Bladder senna, its culture, 110. 
Blush roses, and their varieties, 152, 

153. 

Bourbon roses, and their varieties, 152. 
Bramble, its varieties and culture, 
111. 

Briar, Austrian, its culture and varie- 
ties, 138. 

Broom, varieties of, 111. 

Brusmansia, varieties and culture of, 
111. 

Buddiea globosa, its culture, 113. 

Bulbous Flowers. 9; their proper- 
ties and culture, 21 et seg. ; the 
different kinds and varieties of. 
22 — 50 ; the agapanthus umbeliatus, 
22; the amaryllis, 23; the colchi- 
cum autumnaie, ib,; the crocus, 24; 
the crorcn imperial, 25 ; the daffo- 
dil, and dogs-tooth violet, 26 ; the 
fritiilary, garlic, and gladiolus, 
2/ ; the Guernsey lily. 23 ; the hya- 
cinth, 28—35 ; the " Iris, 35 ; the 
ixia, 36 ; the jonquil and lily, 38 ; 
the narcissus, 40 ; the snowdrop, 
, 42 ; the snowflake, and squiil, 43 ; 
the Star of Bethlehem, 44 ; the tiger- 
flower and tuberose, 45 ; the tulip, 
46 ; and the zephyTanthe3 Candida, 
50. 



176 



INDEX. 



C. 

Cabbage roses, 134, 137. 
Calceolaria, its varieties and culture, 
76. 

Calendar of monthly operations in flori- 
culture, 160. 

Calicanthus floridus (allspice), descrip- 
tion and culture of, 108, 109. 

Caltha palustris (marsh marigold), 
culture of the, 95. 

Camellia Japonica, description of, and 
culture, 113T, 114. 

Campanula, its varieties and culture, 
76.. 

Campion rose, 76. 
Carnation, culture of the, 77' 
Cheiranthus, and its varieties, 158. 
Chimonanthus fragrans, 158. 
Chinese style of gardening, 7« 
Christmas rose, culture of the, 55. 
Christ's Thorn, description and garden 

uses of, 114. 
Chrysanthemum, varieties and culture 

of the, 79. 
Cineraria, culture of the, 80. 
Cistus, different species, and culture, 

114. 

Citrus, its culture, 123. 
Clematis, 115; its varieties, 158. 
Clianthus puniceus, its culture, 115. 
Climbing roses, and their varieties, 146. 
Coboea scandens, its culture, 80. 
Colchicum autumnale, a bulbous flower, 
23. 

Coltsfoot, sweet-scented, 80. 

Columbine, the, 80. 

Colutea arborescens, its culture, 110. 

Commelina tuberosa, 81. 

Convallaria maialis (lily of the valley), 
culture of the, 92. 

Copper beech.. 13. 

Corn-flag, culture of the, 27. 

Coronilla glauca, description and gar- 
den uses of the, 115. 

Corydalis, the different species of, 88. 

Country gardens, management of, 20 
et seq. 

Cowslip, American, culture of, and 
varieties, 73, 74. 

Cranesbill, its culture, 81. 

Creepers, perennial, that flourish in 
town gardens, 10. 

Crocus, culture of the, 9, 24, 25 ; varie- 
ties of the, 24. 

Crowfoot, the, 81. 

Crown imperial, a bulbous flower, 25. 
Cyclamen, varieties and culture of the, 
56. 

Cydonia, the genus, 127. 
Cypripedium, a tuberous flower, 6l. 
Cytisus albus, 111. 



Cytisus Laburnum, description of the, 
and its different species, 115. 

D. 

Daffodil, culture of the, 26. 

Dahlia, its origin, 57 ; varieties and 
culture of the, 58, 59 ; its horticul- 
tural uses, 60. 

Daisy, double, does not bloom well in 
town gardens, 12; its varieties and 
culture, 81. 

Damask roses, and their varieties, 141. 

Day lily, a tuberous flower, 60. 

December, floricultural operations 
during the month of, 162. 

Delphinium (larkspur), different spe- 
cies, and culture of the, 92. 

Dianthus barbatus (London tuft), cul- 
ture of the, 93. 

Dianthus caryophyllus, an herbaceous 
flower, 77- 

Dianthus plumarius (pink), culture of 
the, 99. 

Dielytra, introduced from China, 81. 
Digitalis, and its varieties, 83. 
Dodecatheon Meadia, origin of the 

name, 73 ; its culture, 74. 
Dog's-tooth violet, its culture, 26. 
Dragon arum, 16. 

E. 

Ebony, false, 115. 

Elder, culture of the, 10, 13. 

Eranthis, culture of the, 51. 

Erica (heath), family and culture of 

the, 118, 119- 
Erythronium dens-canis, a bulbous 

flower, 26. 
Escholtzia Californica, 81. 
Evergreen roses, and their varieties, 

147. 

Evergreens, garden of, 18. 
Everlasting, its varieties and culture, 
82, 83. 

Everlasting pea, culture of the, 10. 



F. 

Fairy roses, and their varieties, 154. 

February, floricultural operations 
during the month of, 165. 

Ferns, culture of, 20. 

Flax, culture of, 87- 

Fleurs immortelles, 83. 

Floriculture, calendar of monthly ope- 
rations in, 160 et seq. (see Flower- 
garden). 

Florist's ranunculus, 68 ; his auricula, 
75. 



IKDEX. 



17.7 



Flower-garden, on the general cul- 
ture of the, 1 ; in what respect 
it differs from the kitchen-garden, 
ib. ; on the laying out and planting 
of the, 2 etseq.; divided into three 
classes, 6 ; the town gardens, ib. ; the 
villa gardens, 15; the country gar- 
dens, 20 et seq. (see Flowers) ; 
calendar of monthly operations in 
the, 160 et seq. 

Flowering trees, list of, 159. 

Flowers, the various sorts to be cul- 
tivated in gardens, 16 — 21. 

, Bulbous, their properties and 
culture, 21 etseq.; the different kinds 
of, 22—50 (See Bulbous Flowers). 

Tuberous and Rhizomatous, 
their properties and culture, 50 et 
seq.; the different kinds of, 51 — 72 
(See Tuberous). 

, Herbaceous, their properties 
and culture, 72 ; the different kinds 
of, 73—107 (See Herbaceous). 

— — , Shrubby and Sub-shrubby, 
their culture, and different kinds of, 
10~— 15R (See Shrubby). 

, Annual, list of, 158, 159. 

Forget-me-not, its culture, 87. 

Fortune's yellow rose, its introduction 
and culture, 148. 

Foxglove, varieties and culture of the, 
83". 

French roses, their varieties, 140. 

Fritillaria imperialis, a bulbous flower, 
25 ; meleagris, 27. 

Fritillary, a bulbous flower, 27. 

Frutex, popular use of the term, 108. 

Fumitory, the corydalis of the mo- 
derns, 83 ; varieties and culture of, ib. 

G. m 

Galanthus nivalis, a bulbous flower, 
42 

Gardens, on the laying out and plant- 
ing of, 2 ; in towns, 6 ; of villas, 
15; country ones, 2'd ct seq. (See 
Flowers). 

Garlic, culture of, 27. 

Genista scoparia (broom), its varieties, 
111 

Gentian, varieties and culture of, 84. 
Geraniums, 81 ; fancy ones, 18; their 

culture, 85. 
Geum, varieties and culture of the-, 84. 
Gladiolus, the corn-flag, its culture, 

27. 

Golden rod, its culture, 85. 

Granatum (pomegranate), culture and 
different species of the, 127. 

Grass, culture of, 11, 86 • different spe- 
cies of, 86. 



Greenhouses, in town gardens, 13. 
Guelder rose, different species, and 

culture of the, 118. 
Guernsey lily, its culture, 23. 
Gum cistus, 114. 

H. 

Harebell, the, 76*. 

Hazel, the, 13. 

Heart's-ease, culture of, 97. 

Heaths, do not bloom well in town 

gardens, 12; family of, 118; their 

culture, 118, 119. 
Helichrysum bracteatum, 83. 
Helipterum eximium, &c. 83. 
Helleborus hyemalis, 51 ; niger, 55. 
Hemerocallis flava, a tuberous flower, 

60. 

Hepatica triloba, culture of the, 88. 
Herb Bennet, 84. 

Herbaceous Flowers, their proper- 
ties and culture, 72 et seq. ; the 
different kinds of, 73—107 ; the al- 
strcemeria and American cowslip, 
73; the antirrhinum majus and the 
aquilegia vulgaris, 74 ; the asclepias 
and the auricula, 75 ; the campa- 
nula, the Campion, and the calceola- 
ria, 76 ; the carnation, 77 ; the chry- 
santhemum, 79 ; the cineraria, 
coboea, and coltsfoot, 80 ; the com- 
melina, cranesbill, crowfoot, daisy, 
dielytra, and escholtzia, 81 ; the 
evening primrose and the everlast- 
ing, 82 ; the foxglove, 83 ; the 
geum and the gentian, 84 ; the 
geranium, 85 ; the golden rod and the 
grasses, 86; flax and the forget-me- 
not, 8/ ; the fumitory and hepatica, 
88 ; the hollyhocks, 88— 91 ; the hop, 
91 ; the larkspur, lily, and lobelia, 92; 
London pride and London tuft, 93 ; 
lungwort and lupine, 94; lychnis, 
marsh marigold, and mesembrian- 
themum, 95 ; Michaelmas daisies, 
mimulus moschatus, and moneywort, 
96 ; pansy and pentstemon, 97 ; per- 
ennial asters, periwinkle, and 
phlox, 98 ; the pimpernel and pink, 
99 ; the polyanthus and potentilla, 
100; the primrose, 101 ; the rocket 
and St. John's wort, 102 ; salvia, 
and scabious, 103; the sedum, 
spiderwort, and thrift, 104; the 
valerian, and veronica chamsedrys, 
105 ; the violet, 1C6 ; the water lily 
and willow herb, 107« 

Hibberd, Shirley, his remarks on town 
gardening, 7- 

Hibiscus, varieties of the, 119. 

Hibiscus Syriacus, its culture, 107. 



17S 



rsTDii, 



HoIIr, description and culture of the, 
119. 

Hollyhock, the, 88; of recent intro- 
duction, 89 ; its culture, 89, 90 ; 
varieties of the first-class English 
ones, 90 ; of the first-class French 
ones, 91. 

Honeysuckle, culture arjd varieties of 
the,! 120. 

Hops, framing of as festoons, 10 ; ge- 
neral culture of, 91 • 

Hurnulus iupulus (the hop), its culture, 
91. 

Hyacinths, 9 ; various methods of 
growing, 28; their general culture, 
29 — 34 ; varieties of, 3-4, 35 ; wild 
ones of the woods, 44. 

Hyacinth-beds, different modes of lay- 
ing out, 31, 32. 

Hvbrid roses, and their varieties, 143 — 
146, 149. 

Hydrangea hortensia, its culture and 

varieties, 121. 
Hvpericum (St. John's wort), culture 

of the, 102. 



I. 

Ilex aquifolium 'holly), description 

and culture of the, 119. 
Iris, its culture, and varieties of the, 

35, 61. 
Ivy, culture of, 11. 

Ixia, a bulbous flower, 36 ; culture and 
varieties of the, 37. 



J. 

Jalapa mirabilis, a tuberous flower, 63. 

January, fioricultural operations dur- 
ing the month of, 104. 

Jasminum officinale, varieties of the, 
121 — 123. 

Jessamine, its culture and varieties, 

121—123. 
Jonquil, culture of the, 38. 
July, fioricultural operations during 

the month of, 1/1. 
June, fioricultural operations during 

the month of, 1J0. 

K. 

Kalmia, culture of, 123. 
Kitchen-gardening, in what respect it 
differs from floriculture, 1 et seq. 

L. 

Laburnum, 123; its characteristics, 
158. 



I Ladies' slipper, culture and varieties 
j of, 61, 62. 

' Larkspur, different species and varie- 
j ties of, 92. 

Laurustinus, 123, 
j Lavender, its culture, 123. 
I Lemon-trees, their culture. 123. 
| Leucojum gsstivum, a bulbous flower, 
1 43. 

; Lilac, its culture and varieties, 124. 
| Lilies, their culture, 9, 33 ; the differ- 
ent species, 38—40. 

Lily of the valley, its culture, 12, 92. 

Lime, culture of the, 10. 

Linum (flax), culture of, 87. 

Lobelia, the different species and cul- 
ture of the, 9*2. 

London pride, varieties and culture of, 
12, 93. 

London tuft, its culture, 03. 
j Lonicera (honeysuckle), culture and 

varieties of the, 120. 
i Loose strife, 96. 

Lungwort, S3 ; its culture, 94. 
Lupine, the different species, and cul- 
ture of the, 94. 
Lychnis, its varieties and culture, 95. 
Lysimachia nummularia ^loose-strife), 
'culture of the, 96. 

M. 

Macartney rose, its introduction and 

varieties, 150, 151. 
Magnolia, culture of the, 14. 
Maiden's blush, 139. 
Many-flowered roses, 148. 
March, fioricultural operations during 

the month of. 165. 
Marsh marigold, culture of the, 95. 
Marvel of Peru, varieties and culture 

of the, 62. 
Mar, fioricultural operations during 

the month of, 169. 
Mertensia Sibirica, S3. 
Mesembrianthemum (noon-flower), 

beauty of the, 95 ; its culture, 96. 
Mezereon, 124. 

Michaelmas daisies, culture of, 96. 

Mignonnette, culture of, 11. 

Mimulus moschatus (the musk-plant), 

culture and varieties of the, 96. 
Moneywort, its culture, 96. 
Monkshood, varieties and culture of, 

63. 

Monthly roses, and their varieties, 
153. 

Moss roses, 135, 136. 
Moulds, various, for villa gardens, 21. 
Musk-plant, its culture and varieties, 
96. 



INDEX. 



179 



Myositis, different species of, 87. 
Myrtle, its culture and varieties, 124, ! 
125. 

N. 

Napoleon's willow, 14. 

Narcissus, culture of the, 9, 40 ; the 

different species, 41. 
Narcissus jonquilla, its culture, 3S. 
Narcissus pseudo-narcissus, a bulbous 

flower. 26. 
Nasturtium, culture of the, 10. 
Nerine Sarniensis. a bulbous flower, 

28. 

Neriura splendens, description and 
culture of the, 125. 

Noisette roses, and their varieties, 152. j 

November, floricultural operations < 
during the month of, 161. 

Nurseryman, his horticultural aid ne- 
cessary. 13; his catalogues, 159. 

Nymphaea alba (water lily), its cul- 
ture, 107. 

O. 

October, floricultural operations dur- 
ing the month of, 160. 

CEnothera, varieties and culture of the, 
82. 

Oleander, description and culture of 

the, 125. 
Ophrys, the bee. 64. 
Orange-trees, their culture, 123. 
Orchis culture of the, 64. 
Ornithogaium, a bulbous flower. 44. 1 
Orpine/the, 104. 

Oxalis, varieties and culture of the, 
64,65. 

P. 

Peeonv, varieties and culture of the, j 
66, 67. 

Pansies, do not bloom well in town ; 

gardens, 12 ; their culture, 97* 
Passion flower [Paasifiora ccerulea), the 

representative of a large genus, 125; 

its culture and different species, 125, i 

126. 

Pea, everlasting, varieties and culture ■ 

of the, 65, 66. 
Pears, culture of, 10. 
Pentstemon campanulatus, a Mexican 

plant, 97 ; different species, and their 

culture, 97, 98. 
Perennial aster, varieties and culture of 

the. 98. 

Periwinkle, varieties and culture of the, • 
11-98. 

Philadelphus coronarius, 157. 

Phlox, varieties and culture of the, 98. ; 



Picotee, the, 77, 99. 
Pimpernel, varieties and culture of the, 
99. 

Pincushion-flower, 103. 
Pink, a florist's flower in great varietv, 
99. 

Pink China roses, and their varieties, 
153. 

Polianthes tuberosa, culture of the, 4' . 
Polyanth narcissus, and its varieties 
40,41. 

Polyanthus, does not bloom well in 

town gardens, 12; its varieties ar.d 

■culture, 100. 
Polvgala. different species and culture 

of the, 126. 
Polygonatum vulgare, 92. 
Pomegranate, its culture and different 

species, 127. 
Pompon moss roses, 134, 135. 
Pompones, varieties of the, 79. 
Potentilla, its varieties and culture, 100. 
Prairie roses, 147. 

Primroses, do not bloom well in town 
gardens, !2; the evening primrose, 
82; their varieties and culture, 19, 
82, 101. 

Primula, varieties and culture of the, 
100. 

Primula elatior, its varieties and cul- 
ture, 100. 

Provence roses, 33, 137. 

Pulmonaria, the genus, SS ; its culture, 
19,94. 

Pyrethrum, the, 79* 

Pvrus ;the pear,, culture and different 
species of the, 127, 128, 

Quince, the, 127. 

R. 

Ragged Robin, the double, 05. 

Ranunculus, varieties and culture of 
the, 68, 70. 

Raspberry, the, 128. 

Rhamnus Paliurus 'Christ's thorn 
described, 114. 

Rhizomatous Flowers, their pro- 
perties and culture, 50 et sea.; the 
different kinds of, 51—71. (See Tu- 
berous Flowers.) 

Rhododendron Gr. tor rose- tree;, dif- 
ferent species and eulture of the. 9, 
123, 130. 

Ribes, the La'in generic name of the 
currant and gooseberry bush, 131 ; 
different species and culture of the, 
ib. 

Rocket, culture of the, 102. 



ISO 



INDEX. 



Roses, not suited for towns, 11 ; the 
kinds to be selected for experiment, 
ib. : their multitudinous species and 
endless varieties, 131 ; their beauties 
and associations,^.; exhibitions of, 
132; their culture and varieties, 133 
et seq. ; the Provence rose, 133 ; cab- 
bage rose, 134, 137; moss rose, 135; 
white rose, 139; French rose, 140; 
damask rose, 141 ; Scotch rose, and hy- 
brid rose, 143,146, 149 ; climbing and 
Ayrshire roses, 146 ; evergreen and 
Banksian roses, 147 ; many-flowered 
roses, 148 ; the white Chinese ane- 
mone-flowered rose, 150 ; autumnal 
and winter roses, 151 ; Bourbon and 
Noisette roses, 152 ; monthly and 
blush roses, 153; fairy roses, 154; 
the different kinds of soil adapted for, 
grafting, and general treatment of, 
154, 157. 

S. 

Sage, varieties and culture of, 103. 
St. John's wort, its culture, 102. 
Salvia (Sage), 103. 

Saxifraga umbrosa (London pride), cul- 
ture of the, 93. 

Saxifrage, 103. 

Scabious, 103. 

Scarlet geraniums, 85. 

Scotch roses, and their varieties, 141, 
142. 

Sedum. different species and culture of, 

104. 

September, floricultural operations 
during the month of, 174. 

Shrubby axd Sub-shrubby Flow- 
ers, their culture and different kinds, 
107—153; the althaea frutex, 107; 
American allspice, 1 08; the azalea, 109; 
the berberry, bignonia, birthwort, 
and bladder senna, 110; the bramble, 
broom, and brugmansia, 111 ; the 
buddlea, and camellia, 1 13 ; Christ's 
thorn, and cistus, 114; the clematis, 
clianthus, coronilla, and cytisus, 
115 ; the Daphne, Deutzia, and furze, 
116; the fuschia, 117; the Guelder 
rose, and heath, 118; the hibiscus, 
and holly, 119; the honeysuckle, 

120 ; the hydrangea, and jessamine, 

121 ; the kalmia, laburnum, lau- 
rustinus, lavender, and citrus, 123; 
the lilac, mezereon, and myrtle, 124; 
the nerium, oleander, and passion- 
flower, 125; the polygala, 126; the 
pomegranate, and pyrus japonica, 
127; the raspberry, and rhododendron, 
128 ; the ribes, 131 ; the rose, and its 
numerous varieties, 131 — 156; the 



Austrian briar, 138 ; the sweet briar, 
142; the syringa, 157 ; the tecoma 
; radicans, virgin's bower, wallflower, 
Weigela roses, winter flower, Wis- 
taria, Yucca, 158. 

Shrubs, brilliant-berried, 18. 

Snapdragon, garden, culture of the. 74, 
104. 

Snowball-tree, its varieties, 118. 
i Snowdrops, culture of, 9, 42. 
Snowflake, culture of the, 43. 
Soils, various, for villa gardens, 21. 
Solidago, its culture, 86. 
Solomon's seals, 92, 104. 
Spartium album, 111. 
Speedwell, culture of, 105. 
Spiderwort, culture of, 104. 
i Squill, culture of the, 43 ; the different 

species, 44. 
Star of Bethlehem, culture of the, 44. 
Sub-shrubby flowers, explanation of 

the term, 10/. 
Suffruticose trees, explanation of, 107, 
Swallow-wort, varieties and culture of, 

75. 

Sweetbriar, and its varieties, 142. 
Sweet William, its culture, 10, 53, 104. 
Syringa, its culture, and varieties, 124,. 
157. 

T. 

Tecoma radicans, 158. 

Thrift, its derivation and use, 104; its- 
culture and varieties, 12, 104, 105. 

Tiger flower, culture of the, 45. 

Town gardens, culture of, 6 et seq.: 
Shirley Hibberd's remarks on, 7 ; 
on the laying out of, 9 ; the various 
flowers and plants that may be cul- 
tivated in, 9 — 15. 
1 Tradescantia virginica (Spiderwort), 
its culture, 104. 

Trees, flowering, list of, 159- 

Tropseolum, its varieties and culture, 
71. 

Trumpet-flower, its culture, 110. 

Tuberose, culture of the, 45. 

Tuberous asb Rhizomatous 
Flowers, their properties and cul- 
ture, 50 et seq. ; the different kinds 
of, 51 — 71 ; the winter aconite and 
the eranthis, 51 ; the anemone and 
its varieties, 52 — 55 ; the arum, and 
Christmas rose, 55 ; the cyclamen, 
56 ; the dahlia, 57 ; the hemerocallis 
flava. or day lily, 60 ; the iris, and 
ladies' slipper, 6*1 ; the marvel of 
Peru, 62; monkshood, 63; the 
orchis, and oxalis, 64 ; the everlasting 
pea, 05 ; the pseony, 66 ; the ranun- 
culus, 63; the tropeeolum, 71. 



181 



Tulip, its culture, 9, 4/ et seq.; dif- 
ferent species of, 46. 
Tulip-beds, laying out of, 48. 

V. 

Valerian, its culture, 105. 
Verbenas, culture of, in villa gardens, 
18. 

Veronica cbamjedrys (Speedwell), the 
type of a large genus, 105 ; its deri- 
vation, ib. : its different species and 
varieties, 106. 

Virbumum Opulus, its varieties, 118. 

Villa gardens, cultivation of, 15 et seq. ; 
the various flowers of, 16, 18, 19; 
different modes of laying out, 1"; 
the walks of, 20. 

Vinca major and minor, its culture, 
98. 

Viola tricolor ;heart's-ease), its cul- 
ture, 97- 

Violet, varieties of, 106 ; its culture, 
ib. 

Virgin's bower, 158. 

W. 

Walks in villa gardens, 20. 



Wallflower, and its varieties, 158. 
Wall-tops, plants that mav grow on, 
12. 

Walnut, weeping. 13. 
Water lily, its culture, 107- 
Weeping plants, various species of, 
13. 

Weigela rosea, 158. 
White roses, varieties of, 13Q. 
Willow, weeping, 13, 14. 
Willow herb, its culture, 1 07- 
Winter flower, from Japan, 153. 
Winter garden, 13. 

Winter roses, and their varieties, 
151. 

Wisteria, its characteristics, 158. 
Wood sorrel, varieties and culture of, 
64, 65. 

X. 

Xeranthemum annuum, 83. 

Y. 

Yucca, its culture, 158. 

Z. 

Zephyranthescandida, a bulbousflower 
50. 



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